I’ve tried searching and while I found okay answers, I want a definitive answer if possible.
So I went by a hardware store on the way home from work today to find some dow corning 737 per suggestion by @longhairedboy or some other form of neutral cure silicone for my build. Particularly for adhering my battery cells together since I’ve learned that it’s preferred over using my hot glue gun. They did not have any neutral cure since I know that it will generally state it on the packaging. But I was suggested to try out this product called Lexel since it isn’t silicone and therefore shouldn’t have the acetoxy that is corrosive to electronics. Is this okay to use as an alternative or should I just go ahead and buy the actual correct stuff on Amazon? If nothing else, I know that it is suppose to make a great sealant, so it won’t be a total loss.
The first packs I made used the dow 737. But it is expensive and really long curing.
I started using normal GE silicone. But you must be careful and get the “Silicone 2+” and not the “Silicone 1”
Silicone 2+ is neutral cure, while silicone 1 has acids in it which make it potentially harmful for batteries (you can tell due to the extreme vinegar smell).
Yea, I know. Like I said, they didn’t have any afaik and didn’t want to leave empty handed.
Okay, Tim. I’ll look into that. I keep seeing the GE silicone everywhere and even Google sometimes shows me this when I look for neutral cure. So I kept getting confused. I dunno if it was 2+, but now I know what to look out for. I know 737 is long curing, but is that really a problem? Obviously if I’m in a rush, it’s not ideal. But won’t it be like some other silicone where at least it is tacky in a short period and then cures later?
I’m sure the slow cure time is more annoying than the strands of hot glue that gets everywhere.
Sure, it may be minimal but maybe it isn’t. I don’t know. From what I been reading, the silicone is better at absorbing the vibrations and stress than hot glue. I know experience is a better teacher here but I rather not fuck around with it. Especially when it comes to anything pertaining electricity and batteries such as these. I’m generally a person to obsess over things and tend to min/max thing even when it isn’t necessary. So I’m told silicone is slightly better in the long run? I’m probably going to do that.
That’s a good point. I hadn’t considered that. Similarly why soldering isn’t a good way to go about connecting batteries, but that example is a bit more cut and dry since you’re literally transferring a lot of heat directly. On a similar note, silicone is an insulator. How good of one is it? I don’t know. Probably enough that I should keep it in mind when building my pack. I don’t think hot glue insulates as well. Not really going to Google it since I don’t care as much.
Okay, good to know. Thank you. I do know that Dow Corning is one of the two big brands of this type of industry and is a trusted name. That isn’t always an indicator of the overall quality of products because sometimes they are made in the same factory with similar parts and literally just change the brand stamping. I will definitely check out the GE though since I’m starting to hit past my “budget” on this build. I say if, but I’m sure I’ll build another board. But at least when (if) I build another board, I’ll already have all the equipment so it won’t hurt my wallet as much.
They were the first dow corning. Any neutral cure silicon is good. As @Sender says its the smell that gives it away. No vinegar = good. Just be a bit careful because silicon conducts when wet.
Was able to get a small tube of it today. Glad to have found a cheaper alternative. I don’t know if it’s enough but it doesn’t really matter now. I’m waiting on another shipment of nickel strip and a bms anyway. These last stragglers in the mail are really testing my patience. I don’t have enough of any one section to go ahead and get started on. Something is missing from everywhere, lol.