Look the this thread if you want more info. Will be documenting process on this thread from now on.
@gogomrrobot @Michaelinvegas @DougM @MoeStooge
EXTREMELY rough sketch of what the mounts will look like
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If you are going there, go all the way with a hypoid gear so you can off set the motor from the wheels for clearance and still keep it parallel to the ground. Plus I think they sound cool!
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I guess these will already be quite a challenge to machine soo…
Nice work, just a few coments, you need to keep an eye on the axial force imposed on the shaft and consequently on the bearings of the motor if you plan to use helical bevel gears, they may no be up to the task
The wheel gear can be smaller, and by making a new shaft to the motor you don’t have to limited to the length of original shaft and can also incorporate an angular bearing to prevent any axial force on the motor bearings
I think a dual setup rear mounted at and slight angle would make a killer visual
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That a boy!
bight off more than you can chew, and chew like mad!
How big is the wheel, motor and drive gear?
That was exactly my thinking! Instant baller status with dual rear bevel gears 
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That would make it even cooler rear mounted, add an butane reservoir and an switch conectes to the remote and you can have fire shooting motors
The only problem with hypoid is slight lower efficiency, but I don’t think it matters here
that wheel is 86mm, if I recall correctly, the motor gear is 10 tooth and the wheel gear is 28. Reason for the odd gearing is because of space constraints, bigger wheels will make this much, much easier
could use a inrunner with a long stator like the stooge?
hypoid…
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What I really liked about that idea is that it allows to use gears with regular motors and small wheels , otherwise you have to use short motors like Jed Boards does to avoid hitting the truck base
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I love exploring the topic between belts vs gears. Don’t know if this applies here, but in the RC world, gears and belts are used with great success. Those gears are gonna be very expensive to make though, that is what I worry. A quality machined and hardened gear costs quite a lot to make. A sintered powder metal one is what you would expect.
I worry a little on the condition of the gears though. A rock in a gearset like that will not go down well. It is very easy to chip a tooth on one of the gears as hardened gears are strong but rather brittle. Running them dry will also not be very good for too long.
That being said I still want to see it done.
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I really like Jensos direct drive. I hate that its not compatible with street wheels. That’s what got me to where I am today…
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Bad Ass!!! I think you’ll need an oil bath for any longevity.
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could build a box around it like Jenso did 
I’d love to be able to try a couple of these but so long…
but to long to fit anywhere
Yeah, for sure it needs a box, if you go with helical or hypoid profiles a oil bath is a must since there’s a lot of slipping happening, without it the teeth will wear “fast”
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jed board 2.0 right here
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Not sure if that’s possible with this due to space contraints.
I have very little extra room to work with
I’ll call it the “Fred Board” 
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What pitch are you using? The teeth are way bigger than needed, if this idea go forward we can calculate the gears and see what’s needed, but like @Lionkev55 said, they will be very expensive, for a life free of belts it might be worth
I’ll try to figure out a jenso style direct drive for smaller wheels tomorrow. Fully enclosed of course