Killswitch | TB / Paris | Riptide Bushings | dual 6374 / focbox | 107mm flys

Look a bit tight to me, one of the main advantages of idler is to have looser belts. Doesnt look like you have many options to adjust the tension though, I would try with smaller bearings if you have them on hand.

I think the M4 bolt will be good if its a high grade one.

What are those spacers you have on the wheel pullies?

I made those spacers with ABS to fit into the flywheel hubs, space the pulleys from the hubs an extra 4mm, and to center the pulleys a bit.

Hey, yeah it was a bit tight for sure. Today riding around, I could see wear on the outside of the belts within a few minutes. I pretty much rode to the hardware store, grabbed a metal file, came right home, and filed down the bolt heads a bit so the motors could slide back a tad to allow more slack in the belts.

I think it’s much better now, the belts are flexy when pressed, and I could go even a tad looser, but I’m going to try the in-between tightish to loose tension for now.

1 Like

Based off of this thread, I ordered one of these guys. Well, it’s in the country now and I feel the pressure to come up with a suitable mount for the thing.

I will be the first to admit, this is not pretty, and I do not like it. The final design will only be printed when I am happy with it looking nice, but first and foremost it has to be primarily functional over everything else. So if for some crazy reason I can’t make it functional and pretty at the same time (not likely), I will 100% prioritize functionality and durability first.

Assuming I am going to be using M8 socket screws or something of the like for the sphericals. I plan on using spacers between each side of the sphericals, a clamp mechanism of some sort for the hangar portion, a screw on extension thing for the outside of the wheel that I can bolt the mount onto from the outside, and bolt the damper to the mount with spacers mentioned before.

This is just a really really rough concept of how I kind-of plan on laying it out. I tried all manner of simpler mounting, but it just won’t work with the board in most of the other possible orientations, or at least this seems like the cleanest, and strongest way so that the damper is out of the way of my feet and adjustment knob still easily accessible. Wish me luck… when I have the damper in the next few days i’ll be going out to grab suitable hardware, and draw up the final design with measurements based off the hardware I get and test fitting the physical damper to my actual board rather than a drawing.

I plan on printing it in nylon (I love this stuff) and dying it black to match everything else.

dampener%20concept%20mount

Some other updates to the board, I removed the green printed cable router. It was taking up too much space that I used to dewedge the rear truck with a randal 35 base/wedges down to 25 degrees. Stability is great now, but doing this because I want more stability if possible! I don’t want any twitches if i’m riding with traffic at 45, save for a stray boulder or pothole, you know.

I’ve also done away with the idlers… they were nice, but I shredded 2 belts just braking gently over the course of a few days. I’ve also swapped gearing to 20/36, and plan on swapping back to 20/32 potentially if the damper works for making the thing feel even more crazy stable than it already is so I can get back up to the 48-50mph speed.

Ah! Also swapped rear bushings to dual riptide 93a WFB chubbies, and dual 90a WFB barrels in the front. These are some solid bushings. Still great lean, but just more stability compared to my old venoms. :slight_smile:

Ah! *x2, also swapped all my cups for flat washers… trying to reduce rebound as much as possible and this worked wonders for doing just that, and again, further improving stability. I think all my instability at speed is just purely fear from the crash I had a few weeks back… still getting my nerves chilled from that one. Every time i’ve felt out of control since the wreck has been 100% mental. gotta get past that mental block. Gotta get back to that feeling I had before, but with all the additional confidence in the performance and stability improvements this thing has compared to how it was setup before. we will see…

20180626_205650

6 Likes

About the motorcycle damper, there are prettier alternatives. Check this out

I am pretty sure thats the legendary madman @Nowind

3 Likes

Are you referring to the blue box thing on his front truck?

I think that was the rear truck, but yes.

Finalized the mount. Not pretty. But functional, and easy print for nylon. Got the hardware for it today… damper came in today… cant wait. Tomorrow morning hopefully I can bolt it all up without any hiccups.

20180628_221440 newmount3newmountnewmount220180628_222809

5 Likes

Well. I had a few hiccups. The hangar mount portion was way too small. Had to file it down quite a bit to squeeze it over the hangar. Plus, it’s on the wrong side. A few holes were very tight, as I forgot to add an extra .2mm space in a couple spots… Besides all that, everything fits together perfect- it’s so tight and solid at this point.

I’m re-printing the hangar clamp portion with a bit extra space carved out so it can fit tight but not too tight without any filing to fit, and mirrored so it’s on the side I intended it to be on. Once that’s done I’ll hook up the board mount portion and screw it all down.

The range of motion seems just right, if not maybe a tad bit restrictive, but it looks like it’s going to work well.

I’ll update later on when this mirrored hangar mount finishes and everything is properly bolted up.

20180629_09424020180629_094214 I intend to use a shorter screw on the hangar mount, but for now this was the only way I could clamp it together, had to use a much longer screw to capture the nut because everything had to bend out so much due to the hangar cutout being too small. 20180629_094222

4 Likes

I am way too happy with how this turned out. It doesn’t have any effect on the feel of the ride on low, but can limit the speed of your turn as easy as turning a knob, literally. Ahhhhh!!! Ah yiiiiiissssss mmm and I think the black dye really helped!

:

20180629_15061120180629_15000920180629_15144120180629_15410920180629_15402320180629_15400820180629_15410320180629_15405620180629_154030

7 Likes

This is one of the most original ideas i have seen about here in a while. Hows it handling?

1 Like

On the carpet I can’t tell any difference on low other than when turning the damping up high, feels like it will be very stable. I’ll update in about an hour, taking it on a grocery run now to try it out.

I’ll be honest, I’ve only rode a mile and a half and I can tell this is going to take some getting used to.

With the damper turned all the way down, it almost feels normal. The board is responsive, but not nearly as much so as without the damper: almost like there is 2% lag. It’s still 100% rideable and 99.5% controllable.

Once you start turning the knob, it almost feels less stable for two reasons: the rear is not dampened. Even though I’m running chubbies and 25 degree rears, it feels like I have the feeling of being unstable, just because I am used to a looser rear being more unstable, but when riding that’s not the case, it’s just not an intuitively stable feeling, even though it’s really hard (impossible) to induce instability/wobbles if I try. Secondly, because the front truck has the opposite of rebound when the damper knob is turned to high, it’s almost like the board has a mind of its own. It will tend to feel like it’s wanting to go the direction you were going before, which throws my mind off. It doesn’t give with the foot feeling / second hand nature of skateboarding I’ve built up my whole life. It doesn’t mean it’s bad, it’s just not something I anticipate… It doesn’t feel ‘natural’.

None of this is to say “bad” though, I am just going to have to re-learn a bit like when you first hop on a freeboard or onewheel- you don’t exactly know what to expect, and you have to take time to get the feel for it.

Thankfully it feels great turned all the way down and still makes the board feel much more stable still. I will probably ride it all the way down, for now, turning up the notch by one every few rides to gradually work my way into “feeling it

P.s: cracks, bumps, uneven pavement seems just fine… The board tends to just roll straight over everything, lol, which is different too.

Okay, confession time: I don’t like it. I feel much more unstable with the front being so “stable”. I will be taking it off and trying a design on the rear instead. I could definitely use more resistance in the rear with so much leverage on the 25 degree plates. Having the front be able to turn how you need when you need it just makes so much sense for stability, and this doesn’t have it. I can 100% see this making a useful difference in the rear as opposed to just being different, and thus unpredictable feeling on the front, when I should have turn as quickly and suddenly as I need it for both minor and major adjustments to course.

I chalk this one up to a failure, for now. More to come.

3 Likes

Naw brother, you learned something and taught us something… definitely not a failure. Keep at it, you’ll get the result your looking for. Grats on the work, very interesting.

7 Likes

Thanks boss. V2 is close to being done printing. It’s going to topmount, bolted on with the rear truck hardware, and to the TB motor mount with longer m4 screws. Can’t wait to give it a go.

1 Like

Have you looked at @MoeStooge builds? He’s doing something similar.

1 Like

Yeah, I wasn’t aware he was using dampers though, I guess that makes sense that those connecting poles he uses are dampers? His builds are absolutely awe inspiring… And frankly out of this world. I’d do something similar, but 3D printing adapters comes nowhere close to welding and fabricating metal parts. Crazy.

1 Like

I 3d print a lot of stuff, won’t be able to start fabricating again until I get my shop rebuilt…fuggin tree fell on it. So I fell ya on that.

2 Likes

TLDR: Do this to the rear, not the front…

V2 is officially online. I am in love. So glad I took the time to get this bolted up… My rear was very twitchy in the very slight lean department, it held center great, but not strong when right on center. This guy on the rear fixes that.

AND MY AGILITY IS BACK! It’s so easy to ride now, absolutely confidence inspiring at speed, 110% controllable, doesn’t feel like I’m riding a flying stick anymore…

I think that the holding it’s line more works very well in the rear. The mounts themselves give a little bit, so there is still a tiny bit of center twitch, but only as much as the mounts give. I kindof like that feeling, but I’m also considering a V2.5 that stiffens up the play a bit more to try it out. I didn’t have long enough m5 pan-head screws to torque down the lower part of the mount onto the motor mount hangar clamp, so I will be getting two longer bolts to take care of that, but it’s such a tight screw in fit at the moment that I’m pretty sure even with all the stress of turning on it constantly, that it won’t break free between now and when I decide to get longer bolts.

I also added some TPU flexible dampeners to keep the damper itself centered, and to help with some of the vibrations. Lovely kobucha beer run tonight :sunglasses:.

To summarize, I think I’ll be planning on doing this to all my high speed boards. It deadens the rear so much more, that with a lively front end, it just feels like cruising in heaven compared to just 25 degree plates and hard chubbies.

20180629_22260320180629_22322920180629_23523120180629_22304820180629_23244120180629_23230820180629_23241520180629_23193520180629_23161220180629_23482620180629_231859

10 Likes