So here is what you want to do. Leave the hall sensor wires connected to the good motor. Disconnect the hall sensor to the bad motor. Then mount the landwheel on a board and see how it works. The motor wiht the functioning sensors should bump start the motor that has no hall sensor wires.
The purpose of the hall sensors is to get the motors turning so you don’t need to kick start. But one motor with sensors should be enough to get the job done.
To clearify, this is a hall sensor, right? I will screw everything in place and go outside with both disconnected and roll down a hill to help it and see what happens.
Yes those are the hall sensor wires. But I suggest you connect the sensor wires for the motor that functions well and disconnect the sensors for the motor that does not function well. You should get better results than if both motors have no hall sensor wires.
Also, make sure you have not mixed up any of the motor wires or hall sensors wires left to right. You may need to remove the trucks to trace the wires properly. Its hard to tell which wires correspond to which motor just from looking at where the motor wires enter the enclosure.
If you’ve mixed anything up left to right then nothing will turn properly.
You started off saying that one motor was working well. I did not see that in your video. The motor that was working well with hall sensors should also work well wheels up without the sensor wires. So I’m concerned that you may have jumbled the motor wires.
The good motor still works well. On the video it’s a bit hard to tell because I focus the camera on the bad motor. I will still take off the trucks and properly trace the wires though
I disconnected my halls on both escs and they still work great infact very smooth.
Dring the disassembly, be very careful to protect the Antenna wire and the copper antena film that it terminates on. WHat you don’t wan to have happen is for the shell to fall off and yank the end of the antenna off. So if you are removing the shell, take a inute to peel the antena film off the shell and stick it to the ESC. If you damage that antenna then the ESC will be useless. After you re-assemble, you can move the sticky antenna film back to the inside of the shell.
@Kingdom421 is correct. with the sensor wire disconnected and no load on the motors, the sensorless operation of the motors should be smooth. So first check if you have done any left to right reversals. Then check that none of the motor wires has a broken/intermittent connection.
Earlier, you said that the blue wire did not seem to do anything and it turned out that you were talking about the blue phase wire for one of the motors. So if there is no difference in the operation of the malfunctioning motor with or withot the blue motor wire then that wire is broken somewhere.
A BLDC motor needs all three wires. The ESC times the charge alternately between different pairs of the three wires so that the stator is constantly being pulled towards one set of magnets and pushed away from another set.
If you loose one of the three motor wires then the motor just wiggles instead of turning.
If its gotten worse since you’ve started playing wiht it, its becasue the broken/intermittent connection has gotten worse.
It could be a bad bullet connector, a bad solder joint to the bullet connector, or a broken wire inside the insullation.
Took as much as I could apart. Unscrewed the drive and took of the housing. I don’t see any visibly damaged wire. No wires were crossed.
About the blue wire, my bad. I must’ve gotten things mixed up. Two weeks of daily tinkering with no luck can get to a man’s head. I had read about the sensor wire previously and had a faulty memory about me testing with no difference. I tried again today, no matter which wire I pull it has a significant difference on the working motor.
I do still get electric pops from the faulty motor and I did see one small spark on the side towards the trucks. I’m leaning towards the problem being at the solder points to the motor.
It was working for a little bit after unplugging the sensor, but that could very well be random. It has worked a few times before in these 2 weeks. My next step will be going to another hardware store and try to get my hands on a fitting tool.
If you take a 10mm or 3/8 inch nut driver,
and sand it down on a belt sander, then you can make your own tool for removing/tightening the axle nut.
Looks like the same size as the front wheels. Which is 13mm. Also read on here someone said the hub nut is 13mm.
Anyhow. I took your message to heart and I have messaged a guy in my city renting out power tools and will be renting a belt sander for a day.
Correct you are - 13mm or 1/2 inch nut driver,
Have a cup of water to cool down the nut driver. If you don’t keep it cool, the metal will loose its temper (hardness). Dry it off before you start sanding again or your sand paper/Emery cloth will disolve.
Best type f belt sander:
Might also work but the belt may wear out before you are finished:
Would be very difficult with one of these becasuse you would have no accuracy:
The walls need to be ground very thin.
Used two different models of belt sanders, an angle grinder, and 3 people helping, a bucket of water and an hour of work to bring down my socket thin enough. Couldn’t get the tool down to a working shape… BUT managed to get the nut off with two screwdrivers, one on either side of the nut and some patience.
Does anyone (preferrably in Europe) have spare parts for a Landwheel?
The problem has been diagnosed…
That piece of metal I am holding is the bit supposed to be welded to the trucks, it keeps the motor from freespinning. Which explains the times I heard the motor spin but the hub not moving.
Because it was loose it managed to slide and grind off the cables. I need new rear trucks for sure Since the trucks are aluminum I can’t really weld it back well. Possibly new motor? hard to solder anything onto those frayed short ends unless it’s possible to push out the bearings and expose the wire.
Thanks to everyone for being so helpful so far 
@pkasanda @revel_flo @Mikenopolis @Kingdom421
sucks I can’t ride my esk8 for at least a couple of weeks though.
Are the front trucks the same? I remember them having the grooves for the wires. If so can you just use that? Sucks that you are not in the US or a few people might be able to help
I might be able to help, I managed to destroy both motors at the same time so I have that truck and no real use for it. I wanted to rewind them but failed to open the cans 
Front trucks are the same except for the bit that broke off mine. It is supposed to be welded on solid to the truck, but mine came loose.
Also, yes being in US/Asia would help now. I’m in Sweden though 
Sorry about your blown motors
You’re in Germany, right? I’m in Sweden. Perhaps that could work.
But are you sure you don’t want to try and repair what you have?
On the long run yes but it will take some time. When I do I can use a maytech truck or cut a normal truck to fit so you can have the landwheel. I have to get the second motor off the thing though, I printed a petg tool for the nut but it only worked on the first so far…
If you manage to print a working tool I would pay extra to have it come w/ the truck. Was an unsuccessful adventure grinding down an existing metal skate tool.
This is as good as we could get. Hence why I gave up on it and settled for using two screwdrivers
Do you have a second set of PU for the motors? THose PU look pretty worn out. I’m just wondering if you might be better off getting a replacement hub assembly from another manufacturer. If you could get a complete Landwheel hub assembly that would make sense but with just a set of landwheel trucks, it seems to me your still missing one motor and maybey 2 PU wheel covers.
Speaking of which: 
I also have a set of MBS at wheels casted on top of a landwheel sleeve 
the hubs are awesome, as long as they were alive at least 