Sure. If it doesn’t break.
Awesome. We’ll see how it goes if I try it.
Also does anyone know what charger to use for the battery, Im using samsung 25r batteries (3.6v at 2500Mah) in the 8s4p structure I have mentioned and I’ll be adding a Bms later.
Does anyone know a charger that i can use for the batteries I have selected?
What sort of charger rating do I need because I have no idea 
thanks for your help
If ur adding the bms later, and ur responsible, despite being new to it, and u can follow basic stuff, you could bulk charge!! But I’m not going to further help u with it and don’t blow up ur neighbor. Get a multimeter immediately.
Is it possible to use silicone wire at the U bend?
Very good question, it’ll make shit a whole lot easier.
I actually don’t know, anybody know if you can use a silicone wire to connect cell 4 to 5 instead of bending the nickel strip???
I did that but i haven’t tested the battery yet.
You should do some more reading on this forum before rushing into anything stupid.
You can absolutely do this. Use 10 gauge silicone wire though. And make sure your soldered connections are really good. Tin the wire ends making sure the wire is saturated all the way through with solder and of course make sure the wire is protected and won’t get cut or kinked.
sure - just make sure to use thick wire (like 8AWG). I do the same thing on my build where I connect two 5S batteries together via a bullet connector.
Guys Im having problems with this pack so I’m gonna take it all apart and take off the nickel strips. Recharge the cells individually. then put it back together using new nickel strips and reattaching the BMS, also use a 10AWG wire for connecting cells 4-5.
Im doing this because my voltage on my battery pack changes as the pack moves, which indicates faulty connections somewhere. Also using a bms is making me suspicious, coz my pack only charges to around 32v when it should be 33.6v (8s - 8 x 4.2v = 33.6v).
Does anyone know what else this could be??
Also whats the best way to remove nickel from 18650 cells??
Have you tried testing each parallel pack with a multimeter?
You have to carefully pull them off with pliers.
That’s really amounting so best to find the source of the issue and fix that.
yes cell number two is usually lower and cell number 7 / 8 are always about 0.8 volts above the rest. It so strange.
Thats why I’m gonna recharge each cell individually before putting it back together. I gonna use a higher amp setting on my spot welder to make sure they don’t come lose again. I think they came lose from the insane vibrations while i was riding…to give u an idea the vibrations where so intense if I was a girl i’d be leaving a trail. This is why Im gonna eventually use all terrain wheels which makes the vibrations less due to larger wheel base.
If you guys have any other ideas about improving diy battery builds for eks8 feel free to shout them out. DIY battery packs are insane when you know what your doing because you can customise your packs to be more powerful/less or have more/less capacity and you can make the battery pack the shape you desire for your enclosure.
So to get A shorter pack you could put silicone wire then in the middle and fold over? And i stenad of 8 awg would two 12 awg work?
I can’t think of any reason why that wouldn’t work. Just make sure you solder properly and protect the soldering with heat resistant tape or adhesive card etc.
From my experience the pack needs to handle vibrations. Just make sure their will be no direct pressure on all your solder or joints from the vibrations inside the battery enclosure. I gonna make an update in the next few weeks hopefully about how I remade the pack.
Thanks, going to cover the pack in foam