@philvanzu Nahh I rather not destroy the board. Am too lazy to paint it either ways. LOL
So… I followed @mmaner suggestion of using a heatgun… Didnt quite work out fine. Using medium heat and the edges wrapped upwards. Maybe I should have heated longer for it to be softer? The flexibility I heated to, was probably slightly tougher than a gummy bear? Should I have done it longer to make it more malleable?
Moving on, I actually did some heating and some “compression tool method” Kinda formed the board to the slight curvature shape. which is pretty great.
More pictures and steps soon.
I NEED HELP ON MOUNTING STUFFS INSIDE THE ENCLOSURE!!!
Here’s a picture of how’s I am going to mount my enclosure.
Here’s like the top View. Of everything.
- Foc box - Heatsink glued to the deck (Plastic housing facing enclosure)
- Antispark switch - Gonna be placed as (Enclosure-BMS-Antispark-Deck)
- Water proof switch
- Charging port
- (Right of 5; Not numbered in picture) The motor phase wires would come through. With rubber gasket.
Some considerations I have made are:
- on/off switch placement(4) - In rocky roads, it wouldnt turn it off accidently
- Charging port location(5) are protected against oncoming rocks/water
- Battery will be super glued to the Deck(10S2P)
- Antispark(3) would have an protective isolation shield/cover. Extra protection from metallic case of BMS and causing a short
- Receiver would be thrown inside…depending on leftover space? Else mount it outside?
Any suggestions on better ways to mount the focbox for better heat dispensation?
Or even the antispark switch/ on-off switch/charging port?
Thinking of placing a square battery lcd indicator on the side (beside focbox(item 1)) Not confirm if I would use it eventually or mount it outside tho