LittleWolfy | Landyatchz Tug boat

Yeap. Im naming my board Wolfy.

Pretty Much all of my parts have arrived. Let me know if you have any suggestions or ideas along the way!

Parts List: LandYatchz Tug Boat Caliber Trucks II 50° Kegels 80mm Independent ABEC 7 Bearings

Turnigy SK3 6364 190Kv Built kit boards Motor Mount 3D Printed Wheel Mount

FOC Box (From LHB) 20x Samsung 30Q (10S2P) Enclosure

Miscellaneous: Motor Gear Belt Bullet Connectors (M3.5mm F4mm)

Switch Antispark Board 40A Fuse Water Proff Switch

Remote + Transmitter Screws + Threaded Inserts Rubber Inserts

Other Random stuffs you may occasionally see.

b40a566e-c79b-4d0f-bf36-7c04d070d3cf 38x165x320 Coolermaster Novatoch TKL Keyboard for comparison

d0109375-ee21-4a7f-8ad0-23584e73cc00 38x160x200 For me :smiley:

661234c2-9ec4-425a-937d-93a5ad001d84 There’s some flex to the board. Putting some clamps and hopefully the enclosure would conform to the curvature more easily before I start drilling and mounting stuffs.

3 Likes is probably a better solution

If you will do this, the enclosure will fit perfect…

clamp the sides of the enclosure (just like you have done in the pic above), using a heat gun heat the front and back of the enclosure and (with welding gloves) press down slightly on the corners. This will ben the enclosure from the center and as it cools make it conform to the deck.

Be careful how much you heat it, there is a fine line between soft and puddle of goo :).


I’ll be doing that with my little psycho coop enclosure. Excited to see how well it works. Thanks Mike!


No worries brudda :grinning:

I like this little deck, I was thinking if making a little cruiser with this deck.

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@philvanzu Nahh I rather not destroy the board. Am too lazy to paint it either ways. LOL

So… I followed @mmaner suggestion of using a heatgun… Didnt quite work out fine. Using medium heat and the edges wrapped upwards. Maybe I should have heated longer for it to be softer? The flexibility I heated to, was probably slightly tougher than a gummy bear? Should I have done it longer to make it more malleable?

Moving on, I actually did some heating and some “compression tool method” Kinda formed the board to the slight curvature shape. which is pretty great. :smiley:

More pictures and steps soon.



b802d5fe-4de3-4b71-80dd-af95ef75694f Here’s a picture of how’s I am going to mount my enclosure.


Here’s like the top View. Of everything.

  1. Foc box - Heatsink glued to the deck (Plastic housing facing enclosure)
  2. BMS
  3. Antispark switch - Gonna be placed as (Enclosure-BMS-Antispark-Deck)
  4. Water proof switch
  5. Charging port
  6. (Right of 5; Not numbered in picture) The motor phase wires would come through. With rubber gasket.

Some considerations I have made are:

  1. on/off switch placement(4) - In rocky roads, it wouldnt turn it off accidently
  2. Charging port location(5) are protected against oncoming rocks/water
  3. Battery will be super glued to the Deck(10S2P)
  4. Antispark(3) would have an protective isolation shield/cover. Extra protection from metallic case of BMS and causing a short
  5. Receiver would be thrown inside…depending on leftover space? Else mount it outside?

Any suggestions on better ways to mount the focbox for better heat dispensation? Or even the antispark switch/ on-off switch/charging port? Thinking of placing a square battery lcd indicator on the side (beside focbox(item 1)) Not confirm if I would use it eventually or mount it outside tho

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48270304-8996-4763-a974-a64d5bf40f74 Left to right: Motor 3 poles, charging port, Switch

w Finally done up my 10S 2p with BMS. Wrapped up my battery with the green paper thingy and plastic heat shrink wrap

723a7ef6-ac79-405f-b752-2c6132f7c6fb Tried positioning into the enclosure with the board. Notice the big gap between the board and enclosure!!! I was pushing as hard as I can against the deck.

as Heat the enclosure once again to conform the shape. Pretty much smaller gap. Probably still 2-4mm of spacing between the deck and enclosure.

Im planning to hot glue the battery and ESC to the deck itself. Then cover it up up threaded inserts in the deck and screwing it together.

I highly suspect there will still be a small gap between the deck and enclosure, even after screwing in the enclosure. Any ideas how to fully seal up the tiny gap?? Damm worried if I accidentally rode over a puddle of water and water gets in…

Clamp the enclosure at the ends and centers. Heat up both sides of the enclosure slowly and while wearing gloves press it into shape.

There’s a fine line between just enough and too much heat so be careful.

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Or attach sand paper to the bottom of the deck, sand the enclosure against the deck until it gains the shape of the deck

Hey, yeah i have alrdy done that. But if i do heat form even more, there wont be any edges for me to drill into and screw onto the board tho…

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That’s exactly what happened to me with my dinghy build, I ended up with just enough edges to make it work but if I had to remake this build I’d use the epoxy pools of flatness technique instead.


Were u using the enclosure from euskating too? Whats yr battery configuration? It looks real neat as compared to mine!

I am planning to redo it using fiber glass and epoxy. Tried screwing it onto the deck,definetly does not seem sturdy.

yes the little beast enclosure from and the dinghy is basically the little brother of the tugboat. I ended up doing much more aggressive reshaping than I originally intended to because the enclosure was not deep enough to accomodate 2 rows of cells when reshaped, What I ended up doing was put a big book in the enclosure the same size as my battery wrapped in adhesive tape so it would not deform then I really went at it with a heat gun, but the result is a bit wonky and I have no border left at all in the middle of the enclosure. Battery is 10S4P, there’s just enough room for a focbox, you can see a link to my build log with more pics of the shaping process if you click on my name.

@philvanzu That is sick dude! How I only managed to cramped in 10S2P with my focbox, antispark switch and BMS. My BMS is huge, which kinda explained the “space wastage”

Im planning to do a DIY encloure using Fiber Glass Cloth and Finish Resin from HobbyKing. Something like this:

My bms does only 15A, I only use it for charging that’s why it’s so small and all the antisparks I tried have died super quickly so I only trust XT90S now.

Yes fiberglass / cf is the best for a custom enclosure wise choice. I was on a tight budget otherwise i’d have done it too.

@philvanzu ohh really? Im afarid the thickness of the the finerglass case would be an issue on high vibration riding places.

How many layers of fiber glass cloth do u reckon?

I have no idea since I never made one but the enclosure coming with the Lacroix deck is only 1 mm thick and still amazingly strong. I imagine probably 4 sheets would be enough but you should really ask someone who knows this stuff.

As for vibrations, everything under your deck should always vibrate as one, nothing should ever be loose or rattling.