@Eboosted, his is packs look pretty damn nice. Also @Kaly makes nice packs but with a different approach. I keep a folder of images from the forum of nice safe packs for future reference.
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These scare the 
out of me. Its like 2mm and a small bump from 
I hope you went in and at least fold them back at 45deg or trim them.
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In this picture of the flexible batteries I make for Hs11 or Carver there is no crossing anymore 
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I’m also making a flexible battery with 30Qs. I used 3 layers of 10x0.2mm strip and bridged with 13awg wire in parallel. Designed everything to be handle 60 amps continuous without very much heat buildup.
I have to say those battery’s are looking pretty elegant 
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honestly I didn’t even think to do anything about them yesterday but after work today I’ll definitely try to just fold them back so they can’t cause an issue in the future. Folding them didn’t even cross my mind as an option but I greatly appreciate the idea!! Added it to the list for tonight.
I do have another question for others out there. As you can see with the mounts I have for the BMS and VESC I’m trying to attach everything I can to the bottom of the board. I’m a little stuck on how to do the same with the battery though. My first thought was to use some footmen loops screwed to the deck that I can then loop Velcro through in order to hold the board against the bottom of the deck. I think I’ll need to have a rigid support across the battery to keep it from wanting to fold but I’m wondering what others think of that approach?
I typically use RTV or Hot Glue, in the past I have used velcro straps secured to the deck with panhead sheet metal screws then layer over that neoprene.
These balance wires are so BEAUTIFUL!! 
Just for anyone looking for a cheaper alternative I built a 10s 5000mah lipo setup…$100…Pretty easy.They also have higher out put than li ion. Possibly lighter too since they don’t have the cell casing. I will await for anyone to knock me on lipos lol…
don’t mind the tape(temporary till i paint this thing)
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I won’t disagree that using Li-Po’s would probably be easier but my battery is 9000mah and should have quite a few more charge cycles than the Li-Po equivalent. For me the added capacity and longevity of the battery were why I chose to go the rough of building my own. I like the duel motor setup you have though. I’m sure having Li-Po’s works better with two motors drawing more amps.
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Oh yeah with 9000mah you will be able to ride into the sunset…and back! Props to you for making one instead of buying premade.
Hey @Eboosted a couple questions about the balance wire setup.
- So it does not matter the order of the cells as all the wires are positive?
- @b264 mentions hooking the balance wires to negative instead of positive side. Can any BMS do that? I never heard of that setup before. Seems like it could be safer with the ballance wires going over the cells.
The P groups have positive and negative connected together. Since they’re connected together, it doesn’t matter where you put the balance wire – except the first and last one
So I mean not like the grey one below, but like the three indigo ones
So basically I’m saying only one balance wire ever needs to connect to the positive side of the P-pack
And since the risk of shorts is higher on the positive ends, you should not connect them there except the last one
To the BMS, there is no difference…
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I get what you’re saying but does it really matter… the wire will behave the exact same if you connect it to the positive (the purple wire in the middle) or the negative (the gray wire in the middle). What I’m really taking away from this it the idea of avoiding crossing wires.
I’m saying under heavy vibration and flexing it’s better to have more stuff physically further away from the positive end of the cells. If it’s the same electrically, then there is no reason to put it on the positive end. That’s all I’m saying. It’s more risk with no extra reward.
The order of the BMS wires does matter, if you make a mistake you will cause a short as soon as the BMS is plugged
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So having non crossing ballance wires only works with that battery layout, and not the boosted board style double stack? I guess they can still cross AFTER the cells before the balance plug where there should be more free space.
Well I am very happy with the changes I made. I still have fish paper between the cells it wraps underneath and is trimmed to match the profile of the cells none of the balance wires crossed until after they exit the pack everything is it is taped in fixed in place I’m just going to go back now and trim the corners of those nickel strips on the positive leads and I think I should be golden unless there’s any further suggestions.
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I tried to curl those edges and not sure if it got better or worse at least it’s not protruding over the edge.
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