Hey guys I saw this thread and it got me thinking I think what would be best is to mount all the batteries 7 18650’s series probably 7s5p would fit just In the deck inside and the screws to hold the ESC from the bottom of the deck use them opposite so hold the ESC outside make a adapter case to mount from the outside like a small enclosure just to hold the esc . This is probably going to be my 4th project as soon as my carvon 4wd is finished
but… 7s5p are 35 cells…
and this would make it hella ugly + heavy. Just get a longboard then Would defeat the purpose of the board.
EDIT: and yeah, did I mention 35 CELLS ? This would NEVER fit in there
For the bms why not just use the stock one and bypass it for charge only?
Bro, chill out… No need to get mad. I was only coming with a suggestion. And I was writing to @esk8jpn , not you
“Heavy” you call that heavy 20lb is normal for me that thing should be light. 7s3p with bms and vesc at the bottom of the board single motor 200ish kv should be fine
I have to agree with fu. For me the lou is all about weight and portability. I would never want it any heavier than 13 lbs and hate externally mounted electronics.
This post is perfect. Really good example what will fit in there. In 1.0 space is even more limited because of the plastic “lips” holding the battery in place but those are easy to trim.
If you want anything more than that, you will need to destroy the deck in some way which most aren’t going to do because the deck is quite okay, nice looking and decent in weight and size as is.
@pat.speed I will tear down the battery pack further next week but I’m quite sure BMS is already bypassed (charging only)
@FredrikHems not mad at all bro. You read me wrong.
I think if you really squeezed it in the you could potentially fit 20cells, a Vesc 4 and a micro bms. That means you could run a 6s3p which would eliminate some voltage sag. You could also try fitting the bms in the space left by the missing two cells
The cells in the image aren’t welded and that takes some of the space as well. Height wise, there is 21mm total - 3mm left therefore anything over the cells is a no go.
But just maybe it could fit in. This would probably be the best way to solve the sag provided motor is running well on 6s, Not for 3.0 because of dual hubs / dual VESC.
I also think the @esk8jpn idea of 7s2p is also a good one. With good cells and not too heavy rider it could also be perfect.
It is difficult to put three more cells there. I will put a BMS in that space.
It couldn’t be that hard if you were to use a smaller esc, ie Vesc or hobby esc
Is there an aftermarket ESC like the Lou for cheap online ? I’ve got a focbox here but I’d have to wire in a push button and Dremel an opening somewhere. And I quite like the push-start feature.
DIYeboard’s ESC is very similar to Lou genuine ESC. http://www.diyeboard.com/v11-single-hub-motor-sine-wave-foc-esc-speed-controller-p-609.html
I actually bought it. PCB size, Sensor wire connector is the same thing. Only the XT60 connector is different.
That means Lou’s ESC can also change 6S, 7S, 10S voltage settings with simple soldering. and I confirmed that it actually works with 7S.
I think the Meepo ESC also have the push to turn on thing, so no power button if you buy the ESC alone. But at least few months ago when I was looking for another ESC as Soflow support is Soslow
DIY eboard esc on 3.0
Not even a mm taller will work. The wires would barely squeeze in. I changed the battery Velcro to a stronger/thicker brand and just the slightest difference in Velcro’s thickness causes the lid to not latch.
Whats the reason you went with a new esc ? Is the DIYBoard ESC also push-start ? Did you try fitting a focbox in there ?
For now I’ve got 10 VTC6s on my way. I’ll reprint the battery enclosure to keep the 2,2ah one as a carry-on battery.
I got the new one because the one it came with breaks way to easily. It came to the person I bought it from with all the capacitors broken off. The same thing happened to a lot of the Kickstarter backers. Yes the diyeboard starts by moving the board forward or an optional power button add on.
Here is the original esc. Originally I tried just replacing the capacitors but the height of the new capacitors were slightly too tall. The esc they provide basically rubs against the lid to the board. I may switch to vescs soon to fix the cutout when braking on full charge.
I went over to a diyeboard esc. It is simply a remove and replace job. Exactly the same size and bolt holes. It is a push start but you can also use the power switch they supply. It also comes with a battery indicator if you want it.
The remote for me is also way better than the louboard joystick.
has the braking and/or acceleration feel changed?