Everything starts from the battery. What it can safely deliver. Thats where you start your settings. You never exceed the absolute maximum that your particular cells can deliver. In your case its 30 amps. The bms and the cells will behave if you don’t go over this. Once you know your battery capabilities then you can play with the motor. Those things are probably rated to something very low but you can up that value depending on weight and riding style. Basic rule of thumb is check the temps. If it gets too hot the max amps on motor is too high.
Oh so motor amps is like an instantaneous max?
I’m confused why battery is set different from motor, because… how can you actually draw 50 amps if your battery max is set lower. Is that like so the controller will “allow” a setpoint that it calculates will be a 50 amp draw but then if it sees a sustained load more than the max battery it will dial it back?
I guess it’s time to find some VESC documentation.
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Voltage drops in favour for Amps 
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A few scratches won’t matter
Nice! I only found out about the evo board shape and the offset truck angles. I’m pretty curious to ride one of these boards one day and see what the difference is between mine which has them both angled in. So I suppose mine doesn’t turn as well, but a bit more stable.
Anyone know how long @psychotiller enclosures take to arrive after order? It’s the last part I’m waiting on now (except for the x-brace from china but probably going to assemble without it).
Probably the other way round. The evo is a pure downhill race deck and is set up to be rock solid at speed with 50 degree trucks. Turning though does suffer but once you get used to it you can have your trucks loosey goosey and still have a stable ride at plus 40mph.
I think you said it, the advantage of the EVO deck is that you can run more loose trucks and the orientation keeps you stable.
The deck I’ve got has both sides facing in, which should improve stability on both ends. It’s probably barely even 10deg though so I’m not sure how much I’ll notice it.
For my next board I’m eyeballing EVO or Trampa… already 
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I recently took apart my Diyeboard 10s2p to diagnose a failure after a crash. The build quality was surprisingly good. Just really shitty cells.
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Wasn’t expecting anything great, and I guess voltage sag I knew what I was getting into but hopefully with the 4p cells it won’t be noticeable until most of the charge is depleted.
The onan I have pretty sure is with LG or similar cells, is only a 2p and it starts to sag after the first mile.
But, continue to soldier on for a long time so if this does better than scale that performance I’ll be happy.
Status Update:
Most everything is wired, I still need to convert the sensors from 5 to 6 pin, there is no temperature sensor. Next step is to load the vesc tool on my laptop figure that whole thing out. Kind of still nervous to plug it into the battery, haven’t tried yet! So skeptical it will even work!
Bonus, I reinforced the receiver antenna with some layered shrink wraps and a dab of super glue at the base.
I got a joke related to that.
Lets have it then
A lady walks into a sex shop.
The clerk approached her and asks her what she would like. She seems shy and apprehensive and whispers to his ear that she would like a dildo.
Taking into consideration all of the above, the guy in the shop shows her the smallest one they had.
She sees the dildo which is the size of a pinky finger and whispers if they had something bigger.
Then the clerk shows her a dildo the size of a kids index finger. Again she whispers to his ear if they have something bigger.
This happens many times until she is shown a dildo the size of a horses cock.
The lady giggles and whispers to his ear how much the red dildo at the corner of the store costs.
Then the clerk says loudly. Sorry madam, this is the fire extinguisher and it is not for sale.
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Fml taz. That was such a european joke.
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Great, there goes my build thread.
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You will get used to it.
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@visnu777 hey did you happen to mean the specific VESC from that ebay seller by any chance?
I get a blinking red light and fault code for current sensor 2 after updating the firmware. Surprise? Not really. Sad, a little.
EDIT: Nope figured it out, had to run motor detection first.
UPDATE: Got motor control and remote working on one VESC now need a can cable!
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From what I’ve understood some differences between motors is normal, but that’s like double the resistance.
Luck of the ebay draw?
EDIT: Ran with 750g motor instead of 2000g motor and got more equal results:
Not really sure I understand the new wizard that well, I think my motor is somewhere between 750g and 2000g but don’t really know where to make the changes in the wizard. I’m probably going to leave it at these low values until I can test everything out and I’ll turn it up later.
So I guess what this means is the first motor is weaker than the second by about 20% ish at 50+amps?
IMPORTANT STEP: If your controller has a trim, adjust it to the same center voltage as you get when you turn the remote off.
That way, your board won’t slowly move forward when you turn your remote off…
Don’t know if I’m too late here but here’s what the Moose 38inch 1.5 drop down looks like with a Psychotiller enclosure mounted. It has around 2 inches of clearance on 90mm wheels with no risers. I scrape occationally but it isn’t too bad and it’s well worth it for the ride. 
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Awesome! Thanks @wannagofast! Since I’m on the 2 inch drop with 1/2 riser should put me at the same clearance.
The Nuff board I’ve got now with an onan booster is great because I do not care about it at all. It can actually go up and down curbs without scraping for the most part, and that’s what I’m going to be losing now for sure and has me most sad.
Everything is setup and ready to go, just waiting on the enclosure now!