Sexy build, I’m watching closely to steal all your ideas. 
Have you considered 3M VHB for the Ti joints?
Seems strong, and cleaner than rivets/bolts/screws.
Cheers! I had thought about using glue, I’m aware that there are varients used in motor/ aircraft construction but now I will check that out thanks
I bought a brazing rod, that was the plan, plans change
Progress slowed by work, I made a mistake on the rejigged @JTAG bms enclosure so that’s still not completely finished but you can see what it will be like, also removed foam between packs for space, to be replaced by 1mm silicone (no pack ‘clicks’)
Some of the packs I have fitted with @agniusm internals and caps
Great. Any feedback on the stuff? Have you assembled them with cells? If so, how was it, hard, complicated… Regards
looks good
Loving this.
Is there anyway you could print me a copy of those belt guards? Will obviously give you some remittance!
Easy, you can see the thought put in…
After connecting the series bars I think I will go with them and also they hold the packs so securely together I really don’t see the need for any silicone buffer. Also I got rid of the foam between the packs and the board and replaced with more Velcro, given the design I don’t see cells getting shaken loose…bonus is I may be able to test ride without the metal bars.
The packs want to splay a little on the other end when the series bars are connected, the Ti bars will eliminate any movement.
I did make a mistake insofar as I wasn’t aware that only the negative side has a poron strip, as I didn’t examine the contents carefully it meant I have to bend back and remove some bars after 2/3 packs, thankfully no break.
I will make a small loop to connect the two pack strips with copper ring terminals.
I made a small mark on each pack to denote polarity direction.
I want to finish this up, ride some and move onto an ATB in the works.
“I did make a mistake insofar as I wasn’t aware that only the negative side has a poron strip, as I didn’t examine the contents carefully it meant I have to bend back and remove some bars after 2/3 packs, thankfully no break.”
It actually does not matter which side you put in, negative or positive (i like to put cells negative to the foam as you said it, no particular scientific reason). The bumps are sized to positive side so there is no overlap and with cells sitting snug, no chance of them shorting on positive end with negative outer lip.
The compression gasket is on one end to minimize play. When there is more material, e.g. on both tabs there is twice as much risk for cell loose compression. One side is more than enough.
If you have a gas torch, heat up the bend spot. This will anneal it and it will go back to its previous crystalline form (copper molecules) and you will be able to bend back and forth as many times as you like granted you anneal again after bending couple of times 
BTW, you can jus use some 5mm x .2mm stainless strap, feed it through ribs of the modules and strarp it that way to the board. They actually are meant for that:
Can you give a bit more detail? Just heat it to red, and let it air cool?
I’m good no breaks! But I would not risk removing them again without annealing good advice
Steel band? That is a great idea, I’m eager to take a ride so may go that route for both the splaying problem and a quick mount the packs are pretty study and I don’t plan on grounding the underside for the moment
Liquid tape for the series bars and a smear of silicone on the pack interface top/bottom methinks would be enough
Ordered some VHB tape and some steel band…well wire but who’s checking?
For some reason probably beer I took the mounting lugs off the box and instead will put 4 small magnets under the pcb (with insulation) this working with 4 more magnets mounted to the board will allow the bms to be taken off easily
I’m waiting to see how you route the balance wires
You can see the routing in the pic above
Of course the silicone tubes are empty right now but I’m going to use the old trick of pulling them through a small pinhole for each pack 12 holes by sticking a piece of wire through the hole from the other side, pushing it back to the box and temp soldering it to a balance lead…then pull. I’ll have to do that 12 times but should end up with a watertight solution
I’m too mean to buy liquid tape so silicone sealant/ instant gasket will be used, too cheap to buy corrosionx for the bms so will use some acf50 I have on hand.
The wire rope I ordered was too fat at 3mm so plumped for some 2mm and some hardware
Exoskeleton
I’m planning on doing a build similar to this as well except I’m using 10S3P setup.
I have the dimensions of the battery encosure itself but I want to make sure I have enough room under my deck to fit these things. can you measure the dimensions from NESE enclosure to NESE enclosure. I want to know how much additional room is required for this setup.
