for real tho… I do it by hand and it doesn’t take long. but there really is no reason to not dremel if you own one.
i was able to grind notches in my NTM 270s with my dremel and a grinding wheel in about 10 minutes.
also i would reccommend using a cutting wheel to grind in a ring-clip groove on the end of the shaft if there isn’t one already. Losing a pulley in the street sucks.
and @torqueboards is right about using bolts instead of set screws on your personal builds. Set screws may look cleaner and more “professional” or “factory” but i’ll be damned if i’m going to ever be forced to extract another set screw from a pulley because the thread locker was doing its job too well and the screw head stripped. At least with bolts you can switch to pliers or channel locks if the head strips.
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Good point @longhairedboy I used a set screw and I’m pretty sure I’ll never be able to remove my motor pulley without some serious Dremel Tool destruction of one or more components. Thread locker really works! and when the screws are small and fragile, the thread locker wins!
Although I’ve had some successes using a heat gun to gently persuade the thread locker to release its grip.
a heat gun you say… i have just the pulley to try that on. lol
previously i’ve had to drill them out. Try doing that without ruining the threads in the pulley.
not to mention the allen wrenches. If you’re not using the absolute best ones, they start to strip too after a couple of these situations.
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I use a pencil torch on the set screws if i need to remove them. Has always worked. Locktite is no match for fire!
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I use a torx driver and blow torch to remove loctited setscrews… easy really.
the trick is to not strip the head off it first. once its stripped then its really difficult.
I just received my two Tacon Big Foot 160’s in the mail. Super excited to use these monsters. I want to make a keyway for both, but I’m scared I’m gonna screw it up. I don’t have the know how to replace the shaft if I do screw it up. Are there any tutorials with video or pictures. I do own a dremel. I’ve had it since Christmas, but have yet to use it.
replacing the shaft is real easy. just take off the circlips, undo the grub screw in the back of the can and tap it out with a drift or dowl. you may need to heat it just a little with a torch if its tight.
Hmm, that doesn’t sound too difficult. I may just try it as a learning experience. Plus I bet it’ll be easier to make the keyway with the shaft out.
they actually use a drill press in this video… i just use a hammer and gently tap it out.
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I received a few keyways from @torqueboards. 12mm and 8 mm keyways if I remember correctly. Would making a 12mm keyway be fine or would combining the two to equate to 20mm which would cover the entire length of the pulley be necessary?
You don’t need 20mm. It’s better but not needed. One will do.
The tacon bearings and shaft are pressed in, which is nice. You don’t need to take out the bearings to get the shaft out of course but the shaft is pressed in tightly. If I were u I’d leave it in and keyway it connected. Putting it back together without a press could screw it up
I got my hand stuck in the tacon once. Ouch.
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Them magnets!@torqueboards I’m deciding if I should get the keyways done at a machine shop or do them myself with my dremel. Does the position of the keyway make a difference? Center of the shaft? Near the end? Near the beginning?
I’d estimate your paying at least… $30-40 bucks. I’d suggest buying a new motor with a keyway and just use that one as spare and run it with just 2 flat spots.
If u have a dremel just do it. Line everything up on the mount to see where ull want it.
I haven’t “liked” anything yet and am saving myself for a girl, when she finally shows
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and make a video 
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