This mod let’s you use the bulletproof internals of the legendary mini remote but in a thumb driven configuration. The mod only requires a few 3D printed parts and a few fasteners. Everything else can be taken from the donor remote.
- This mod has not been thoroughly tested yet. Use at your own risk.
- Depending on your 3D printer’s capabilities the parts might or might not fit together properly.
- Soldering is required.
- This remote is not small. I advice to first print the parts and check if you are OK with the size.
That being said the parts I printed fit together perfectly and the remote feels ergonomic in my hand. Also it seems to work just fine with some initial testing. I have designed and printed over 10 prototypes and finally I’m happy to share the results.
Thingiverse link for the STLs:
Please notice that there are two different versions of the “case_right”. The case_right_insert.stl utilizes an M3 brass insert for the battery lid screw and the other one (case_right_hexnut.stl) a regular M3 nut.
You can see the brass insert used in the instructions below. These inserts are very cheap and can be purchased e.g. from here.
There are also three different options of the throttle wheel to choose from:
throttle_wheel throttle_wheel_old_design throttle_wheel_large-tolerance
Try the “throttle_wheel” first. If it doesn’t fit on top of the potentiometer then you can try the “throttle_wheel_large-tolerance”. This might be needed if you use a larger nozzle on your printer. The “throttle_wheel_old_design” just has a different grip compared to the other two.
You’ll need a soldering iron, one 10-12 mm long M3 bolt and either an M3 brass insert or an M3 nut. Other parts can be printed and harvested from the mini remote.
Print all the parts and check that everything fits. The “case_right” needs to be printed with support for the battery lid cutout. Other parts don’t need supports.
This would be a good time to sand and paint the parts.
Check which holes should be through holes. To ease the printing process I left a layer or two of material inside of some holes. You’ll need to file them out but you should not have to enlarge the hole diameters. In total there should be six: Five in the “case_left” and one in the “case_right” for the battery lid screw. A few examples are highlighted in the picture below.
If you use a brass insert to hold the battery lid screw, you’ll need to heat it up (with a lighter for example) and insert it to the case like in the picture below. Make sure that the M3 bolt goes all the way through the hole after this.
Next you’ll need to remove the potentiometer assembly, PCB and battery contacts from the mini remote. At least the battery contacts need to be desoldered in order to be removed. I advise to desolder the potentiometer wires as well and solder them back facing the other direction. This helps mounting the potentiometer to the new case.
You also need to cut out the tab on the bottom battery contact (but only on this one!):
Start mounting parts to the left case. I used a few drops of hot glue to mount the PCB and wires in place. Make sure the wires don’t interfere with any moving parts and that the polarity on the batteries/contacts is correct!
I used some grease on all joints and moving surfaces.
Using screws from the mini remote mount the two cases together. Check that the on/off switch moves as it should.
Insert batteries, attach a lanyard and put some adhesive foam on the inside of the battery lid to help with rattles.
Lastly, don’t forget to re-calibrate the remote on the VESC tool!!!