Motor 14T - Wheel 36T
Yes -although those are already smaller bearings (not 608) but now I changed the mount slightly so I can adjust the tension better.
So I will test ride it today 
Here are some pics of the belt tension now - i reduced it quite a bit. If I reduce it more then the Idler will not have much of work to do.
If you are running foc, try changing the update frequency.
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I am afraid to break my VESC with running FOC… heard many horror stories… I already fried one VESC so I am trying to get a little more mileage on my current one
So I made the test run now with the loosened belt… It was a little bit better… however it is also not as hot as yesterday. I have the feeling that the heatsink effect of a metal mount would really benefit me… Today the motor hit a maximum of 75°C tried to go at max speed for a longer period… smaller hills and stuff… so the 20km ride was completed without any errors.
But I think as soon as I change to MBS All terrain wheels and really start climbing I will surely run into trouble.
you might have to go dual diagonal if you don’t want to stress one ESC and motor too much.
You could attatch to the back side of the outrunner a 3D printed fan to cool the motor. Link> http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/custom-ram-air-for-cooling/27172/19
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Compare mount thicknesses and ensure the m4 bolts are not too long
Also in the picture it looks like the mount is a little bit misaligned, don’t know if just on the photo
Also you are right about the heatsink effect or the mount and hanger, mine get pretty hot, the same temperature as the motor, I’m pretty sure that without this I wouldn’t be able to run the currents I use
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I can only use a metal 90° angle and check alignment compared to the wheel etc. Also I look if the belt is drifting to one or the other side… If i put the belt in the middle on both pulleys and accelerate and it stays in the middle - i am pretty confident that the alignment should be ok. Also the belt doesn’t get hot or anything and I can easily turn the wheel by hand and don’t feel much resistance.
In the worst case I will have to make the Carbon Fiber part in steel - allthough I would prefer to keep the CF because it looks nice and I already got the idler pulley and everything made for it 
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So… one question… I went for a ride again when it was hotter - and the same problems came up… motor overheated and I had to ride back home at very low speed. The belt tension was reduced and the alignment was OK so it didn’t fix the problem.
What is the agreed upon maximum Temperature that I can set inside the VESC for the motor ? Can I increase it a little bit ? Standard is 80 °C and 100 °C Cutoff.
Thanks
the epoxy coating of the windings is usually rated for 140 Deg (asked one professor at my uni), so I guess that you could set them a bit higher. But I would rather look for other solutions like I mentioned above.
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Yes thank you - but quite honestly the motor is getting the full wind/air as it is in the front - nothing is blocking the air flow so I highly doubt that the 3D printed Fan will be the solution to my problem. Also I would not have enough room to fit that 3D printed fan as I already barely have any clearance.
I am just surprised why I seem to have these problems ? Like i mentioned earlier I chose a 12S3P Li-Ion setup with a 170KV motor to reduce heat and everything… yet I have trouble with overheating, it just doesn’t make sense.
I barely reach the 500-1000W even when going full speed or slightly uphill so I should not even come near any limits.
But I guess in the end I will either have to buy another motor (like the APS 6384 that has a more open design) and/or I will have to make a metal motor mount to have a heat sink.
how much do you weight and how is your terrain? How free does the motor spin? Do you notice any resistance?
Plus, how do you know what wattage you pull? Do you have any Module (Metr/Ack)?
Finally you could do FOC motor detection and measure the IR of the motor and compare it to other people with the same motor. I think @rich has 2 of them on his mountainboard.
I weigh 72kg … I ride basically on special Biking tracks that have even surface (asphalt). The motor spins easily - I can turn the wheel and don’t feel any noticeable resistance… Also the board will roll forever as if there is no drive train - So i think the belt and motor run quite optimally. I have the Metr Bluetooth module yes and I run ACKMANIACS VESC Monitor. The VESC although it is inside a closed enclosure will never reach much beyond 60 °C (I have heatsinks on the FETs).
It really doesn’t make sense to me.
srry, as you answered I added a question
That was the measurement I took yesterday with everything in place (drivetrain etc.) However FOC Mode doesn’t work on my Maytech VESC it will always have a DRV Error so I went back to BLDC as I don’t want to damage the VESC
Well, either push less amps or go dual, or change the mount.
If you want to switch to FOC try this> https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwjY4NKy7svaAhUDZCwKHSh8BdYQFggrMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fvedder.se%2Fforums%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ft%3D68&usg=AOvVaw3WgSfRO2jLguScuhZn7dvQ Thats how I fixed mine (Also maytech)
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Will FOC reduce the motor heat ?
I heard that FOC is silent… but how can I put it… I kinda like the BLDC sound… reminds me of my supercharged cars… haha 
FOC is more efficient than BLOCK Switching (BLDC) so yes, the motors would run cooler.
There are a few Ytbe videos that explain it.
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