Has anyone tried this? I figured that if you fasten the batteries and electronics with velcro to the board and you don’t have any actual weight on the enclosure that it could actually work. I found some magnet inserts that has a listed pull force of 3kg. However, they are quite big so I think I will try this on some scrap wood first. Don’t wanna drill big holes in my board for nothing.
The magnets:
Awesome idea, but keep in mind magnets have a different slip force then pull force of I remember correctly?
Keep is updated though…
I had done this with neodymium magnets. It worked pretti well, but you will nees some pins and holes to prevent it from slipping off to the sides.
Got any pictures?
Interesting idea. I know you have magnets already, but maybe if you got some thin 5mm wide x 3mm high neodymium magnets you could rout a channel for the enclosure flange…that might take care of the slippage side to side. Should only need a channel quarter inch deep and wide.
I have used industrial strength velcro on battery and case. It’s the one rated for holding up to 10 lbs from the Velcro brand. I prefer 3M, but it’s what was at the store. It works way too well the case is hard to remove.
There are neodymium magnets that have a bowl type shape like this that can help reduce the slip factor. Magnets are (as said by others above) exponentially stronger in pull force than they are in shearing directions.
In advertising sometimes we use magnet sheets to print square or rectangular logos and corporate identity signboards which you could apply to metal surfaces like Vans or commercial vehicles. In this case you just glue magnet stripes to the bottom of your Board and then apply the same material to the top of your battery casing. The battery case will stick below the board like concrete!
…I think this is the path I will follow for my build. 
Those kind of magnets won’t hold it on over bumps, they’re only strong over large surface area
I’m not so sure. I try them before and the thing stick to the Van’s door like Loctite. Superstrong and super hard too peel it off. You relly need to claw your nails over the magnets edge to take it off. Not an easy material to fall. The whole sheet is a frigging magnet. This is not a puny little frezzer door magnet. Just imaginé when two bodies of the same material are stick together just by lying flat to one another and you try to separete both and you couldn’t ? Well this material behave in a similar way.
I get that, but once you cut the middle out so it’s just a 10mm ring around the enclosure it might be a tots diff story
You mean like the bottom of a concave Board? Then yes. Uneven surfaces are a different matter. But I wonder, under ideal flat conditions, how strong the magnet sheets will hold? 
No ^… Just no Lol
I thought @pixelsilva implied he was going to do long strips of the magnet, not little round ones…?
That should hold pretty well if the magnet is the length of an enclosure. Put the same with .5mm steel sheet/strip on the board, on the opposite side and you’ll have a strong bond.
Put a metal plate under a car, stick a magnet sheet enclosure size with 5-10lbs of weight on it
See if you can get down the street without it coming off
I vote for this one as the correct answer 
Anyone did this by now? I´m playing with the idea and any experiences would be welcome!
Its been done, I don’t remember by who exactly but should be easy to search. The thing to keep in mind is that the components need to be mounted to the board and not the enclosure for this to work. I always mount to the deck, the only thing that goes on the enclosure is the switch, charge port and maybe a volt meter. I would hate to see someone do this with a 5lb battery pack, the enclosure come loose while riding and have to watch the pack tumble down the street after you run over it.
Never even thought of separating the LCD, switch, escs, etc from the battery. I’ve always had all the weight in the enclosure which puts all the stress onto the mounting holes. Thanks for your comments Mike. I will velcro just the battery pack to the deck this time around to take majority of the weight off the enclosure
No worries brother. Another thing I do is use quick disconnects for the power switch and voltmeter and charge port leads. That way it’s easier to work on when I need to pull the enclosure and if the enclosure fell for some reason the quick disconnects separate rather than ripping out of the pack.
EDIT: These are the quick disconnects that I use…
