How does everyone here mount their enclosures? Do you use screws? I have a concave in my deck so how could I mount an enclosure? Sorry for so many questions!
T-nuts. That way you’ll have threaded stainless holes to screw your enclosure into.
Would this work with a concave deck though as the enclosure is flat and my deck is curved
This is probably one of the most difficult challenges to making a professional looking electric skateboard.
some decks just are not flat enough to nicely mount onto. I think using a
shell (not a box) like a vacuum formed abs shell to cover your parts is a good option…
I have used everything from nuts & bolts, nut inserts, really strong double sided tape, glue &, self tapping wood screws…
in the end i decided ill just make a carbon fiber deck with everything built-in.
So how could I do it? Sorry if I am being an annoyance! I don’t want to do a vacuum forming setup. I may be able to dremel a flat spot.
There isnt a huge concave… `` I may be able to use psychotiller’s method but the screws will be sticking out a bit.
do a mock up with battery & esc, then you can play around with different layouts to find the best form factor.
Do you already have the case?
One thing you can do is use some foam material and build a flat spot…
I don’t have it yet but I am getting torqueboards aluminium enclosure
Yes. If you use abs it is flexible enough to take the shape of the concave.
a plastic box with flanges (i suppose you could call this a lid also) will follow the concave curve close enough, some better than others. If you make and use a rubber gasket you might get a snugger fit and that will also seal out the moisture and dirt. I plan on making a gasket for my build this weekend. Last weekend i did a test drive in the rain and water got into my box. I also got water inside the switch, forcing my power to stay on until the heat gun (on a very, very low setting) eventually dried out the switch and it returned to functioning normally.
I used stainless steel button head wood screws for fasten my box/lid on. While i did notice that there were some waves between the screws, i think using a rubber gasket and doubling the number of screws would solve that issue.
I would also like to start using t-nuts and machine screws (M4s maybe?) whenever possible with these lids. It would provide a much cleaner finish and allow you to remove the screws frequently without wearing out the wood. Definitely an item for future builds/upgrades. Don’t forget the threadlocker when using machine screws though. For the button heads here i used a tiny drop of wood glue to act as threadlocker. When i later had to remove the screws again, it was just enough to make them difficult but not impossible to remove and also didn’t hurt the wood. Your milage may vary, of course.
Use shorter screws and they won’t stick out.
I used that box for a while.
I strongly suggest using a foam pad under the box, i made one out of black duct tape and foam project board like you get at a craft store. And be careful when tightening the bolts down. You’ll want to do 1 or 2 turns then move on to the next bolt, and just go around a few times like that until they’re all tightened evenly. If you don’t you’ll end up warping the flanges which will stress the endplates which will result in the steel screws coming a little loose and sawing their way through the edges of the plates, which leads to dragging a broken box on the ground when the vibration finally gets to it or you hit a speed bump the wrong way. Also, the screws that come with the box are very, very short. If you poke around in the box a lot like I do, that will become a problem after a while of screwing and unscrewing those tiny screws all the time. I ended up replacing those screws with longer ones once a few of them finally stripped and fell out.
So i made a one-piece plastic box and have since decided to never again use multi-piece extruded metal boxes.
I used an aluminum box on a build too. It won’t last long on a concave deck.
i got maybe a couple months out of it before problems started presenting themselves. Vibration is a serious issue with them.
If I used torqueboard’s abs enclosure would that work? Do any of you have it or does torqueboards have a picture of it?
Or I could use the aluminium enclosure, build a flat spot with foam, get some new screws, drill through the deck, put nuts on the screws.This may help it stay on and I can have the batteries mounted under with velcro tape and some velcro straps for eascy access.
Alright. ABS it is! I think I will get TorqueBoards one but I don’t know what it looks like. @torqueboards do you have a photo of your abs enclosure?
I think torque’s is made out of pizza…