Murad I - Vanguard 42" Flex 2 | Caliber II 50 10" | Dual 6355 190KV | Whoosh boards mounts | 10S2P Sanyo 20700b | 2 x FOCBOX | 90mm ABEC 11

Main components

There are a bunch of other smaller components like Adaptors, heat shrink and so on, but everything together came to $1488.12. I realize I could have save more on some items like the remote, bluetooth module, motors and etc but time is also import for me, I rather spend less time shopping around and getting the items shipped together and faster.

This will be my 4th e-skate but my second DIY. I like metal cases, in the previous DIY build I spent a lot of time on different parts, for example, I built an aluminum case by hand and it turned out good but it took too many hours. This build should be fairly easy to put together which will also save time, the metal enclosures from ownboard will fit the pre-made Sanyo pack from meepo and I consider both of them good quality products.

My very first board was a boosted board and I never been able to recapture that experience with the other boards, my hope is that this build will do that but be even better: more acceleration, more range, better deck length and flex for my height/weight, bigger wheels for the roads here.

Some concerns:

  • I’m 225lbs so I worry about belt skipping. On another dual motor 12mm belt DIY it’s a problem. I couldn’t really do 15mm with the Caliber II trucks. My hope is that the Idlers on marcmt88’s mounts will prevent skipping
  • Power: For this build I believe the battery will be the limiting factor. Sanyo 20700b has can do high discharge but it’s still a 2p, hopefully it will be ok.
  • Range: On a Wowgo 2s with the same Sanyo 10s2p pack I could get around 22 kilometers of range, I hope I can get the same but I’m not sure if outboard motors use more power then hub mottors
  • Remote: This is not a big deal but I don’t really like the nano remote but I like the mini remote even less. There doesn’t seem to be an easy solution to this in the DIY world.

This is definetely not an original build, I’ve seen a lot of similar builds on the forum in the past but recently skatemetric released a video with actual benchmarks of a similar build and it stacked really well against other boards (Raptor 2, Boosted) so those number convinced me to do this.

Everything has been ordered earlier this week, now waiting.


Just realized that I didn’t order the ESC Sensor wires, now I would have to pay high shipping fees to get it from Torqueboards: collections/electrical-connectors/products/vesc-sensor-wires

Will need to find another source

Also, I already have a bunch of 14 gauge silicon wire at home from other projects, I was planning on using that however I’m reading that I should go with 12 or 10 gauge to be safer.

The Sanyo NCR20700B cells are rated for 15A continuous, maybe double that for burst (60A in pack). Also the wires (and XT60) coming out of the pack make it look like it was meant for a single motor build.

Dual motor builds are more resistant to belt slippage since there is basically double the number of teeth taking the load. Belt drive is slightly less efficient since you have friction losses in the belt. Probably not a huge difference though.

14 AWG is not enough for a dual setup. I used 10 gauge for runs that carried the full current, and 12 where it splits.

You can find the sensor extension cables from almost anyone who sells or sold VESCs.

Thanks for all these ideas.

That 10s2p pack is for the dual hub motor meepo board, I haven’t noticed the 14 gauge wire they use! Hopefully it will be ok since it’s a short distance. I was hoping to use XT60s all over the build for space savings, but I also have 5.5mm bullet connectors, maybe that’s a better compromise.

I thought a lot about the 10s2p vs 10s4p. With 20 extra cells I would add an extra 2.65 lbs, but it would also mean that I would have to build my own battery and the perfectly fitting metal case I got from ownboard wouldn’t work either so I would have to find something else like the eboosted enclosures.

I realize that the battery will be a bottle neck on this build, but hoping Sanyo 10s2p will be good enough to make it stronger then a boosted stealth and have more range.

XT60’s should be good enough, but keep in mind they are only rated for 60A continuous. I used XT90 where needed. Cruising current is of course lower than that limit, but I like to play it safe. It should be able to keep up with a boosted stealth. Also keep in mind that Meepo tends to be Cheapo.

Speed assuming 16t/36t: 28 mph.

Ended up upgrading the build to FOCBOX instead of the Torqueboards VESC. Everything has arrived at my home by last week except the battery from Meepo still waiting on that.

I’m having some serious doubts on whether or not to route the Vanguard for the 2 x 10 AWG cables or just have the cable exposed under. I really want the clear look.

I already routed another deck of another build as a test before doing the vanguard but still don’t feel too good about doing this to a $200+ deck.

I have the flex 1 and although I like the deck I would go with the shorter 38” if I would do it again. The 41” is just too long and awkward to carry around (e.g. public transport).

Also, those motor mounts are pretty long. I assume you need a 1/2 inch riser on the back to allow some space. This will end up with a higher ride height than what you are used to on your Boosted.

I’m thinking of building my first esk8 with very similar components to yours @gmurad. If you already have the Ownboard enclosures, could you please measure the max. usable internal size of the battery enclosure? This would help me a lot to decide what kind of a batteries I could play with. Thanks in advance! case

I made an album here:

It’s hard to measure the useable “square” space in the enclosure. It’s full of non-square angles.

What kind of batteries are you considering? I highly recommend @Eboosted’s enclosure, it would fit much nicer on the Vanguard. The only reason I’m using the owboard enclosure is because I’m using the meepo Sanyo Battery that was on Sale and is a direct fit on that enclosure. I’m already regretting that decision as I’m planning on opening up that pack and making it a 10s3p or 10s4p.

Thanks for the images. I was considering lipos or a bit differently assembled 10s2p packs that are available from some EU vendors. But after seeing eboosted’s enclosures I’m temped to build my own… Let’s see.

2 full days of work, yesterday and today now build is done. I tested it and it rode pretty pretty! Went with FOC, Sensored, Motor: 80A, -35A, Battery: 20A, -12A

Might be safer to change the battery Max to 16A, I will monitor it.

After testing it I applied thread locker everywhere and now just need to wait 24 hours. Pics in the following post.

Didn’t take as many pictures as I wanted.

  • Orbital sander with 80 grit took the spray on grip tape easily. (no picture for this step)

  • Drilled some holes for the flat copper cable: imageimage

  • Taped flat wires with kapton tape image

  • Heat Shrink and bullet connectors to save space image

  • Used XT60 on the battery side image

  • Motor mounts pre-assembled and flexible cable wrap on motor wires image

  • Main electronics box was a tight fit. Added a bit of hot glue on all cables/parts that I didn’t want movement image

  • Rubber Gaskets in place image

  • Enclosures in image

  • Making sure the pulleys and belt are well aligned image

  • Simple grip tape design image

  • Ended up removing the idlers image

  • The Murad I joins the fleet image


Did the maiden voyage yesterday. Everything worked really well as far as I can tell! Max speed is hitting 41km/h which is great since I geared it to hit 42km/h

Here is the ride log:

I set Battery max to 20A for each VESC so it’s drawing 40 amps max and there is some heavy voltage drop in the graphs since I’m using a 2p pack. I know the Sanyo 20700b is tested to do well with 16A continuous discharge without overheating so my question is:

Is my setting of Max 20 Amps for each VESC too aggressive?

Another setting that I’m concerned about are the cutoffs, I think I have soft and hard at 31 and 28V

Sweet lord! Nice build there! I’m completely new to the eSk8-world but whenever there’s a question about batteries I’d run with Mooch’s tests and recommendations. He’s been testing 18650s for the vaping world for ages and there’s a test of the Sanyo 20700b’s up on e-cigarette-forum, too.

In vaping it’s not a big deal to exceed the continuous discharge rating by a good tad cause we’re only pulling those amps for a couple of seconds at a time. For an esk8, though, I’d stick with the given (i.e. Mooch-tested) limit because you’re pulling in a rather continuous manner. Everything above that is quite likely gonna ruin/degrade your batteries much quicker than usual/necessary.

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Did my first commute to work this morning, lowered the max battery amps to 16A on each VESC:

That flat wire is really cool. Where’d you get that? Seems like a very elegant solution

Flat Tinned Copper braid:

There is a version that is not Tinned but Tinned is easier.


Very nice build! I like the minimal grip tape design. The whole build reminds me of this one with the ownboard enclosures.

What kind of range are you getting now that it’s done?

Yesterday I rode 22km and still had 33V in the battery. At the end of tge commute there was sag but I was Still Able to go a up a hill at 25km/h. I’m 225lbs. Pretty happy with the range.

I mentioned the skatenetric build in the first post in this thread, however there were many boosted clones built in this forum before that.