There are a bunch of other smaller components like Adaptors, heat shrink and so on, but everything together came to $1488.12. I realize I could have save more on some items like the remote, bluetooth module, motors and etc but time is also import for me, I rather spend less time shopping around and getting the items shipped together and faster.
This will be my 4th e-skate but my second DIY. I like metal cases, in the previous DIY build I spent a lot of time on different parts, for example, I built an aluminum case by hand and it turned out good but it took too many hours. This build should be fairly easy to put together which will also save time, the metal enclosures from ownboard will fit the pre-made Sanyo pack from meepo and I consider both of them good quality products.
My very first board was a boosted board and I never been able to recapture that experience with the other boards, my hope is that this build will do that but be even better: more acceleration, more range, better deck length and flex for my height/weight, bigger wheels for the roads here.
I’m 225lbs so I worry about belt skipping. On another dual motor 12mm belt DIY it’s a problem. I couldn’t really do 15mm with the Caliber II trucks. My hope is that the Idlers on marcmt88’s mounts will prevent skipping
Power: For this build I believe the battery will be the limiting factor. Sanyo 20700b has can do high discharge but it’s still a 2p, hopefully it will be ok.
Range: On a Wowgo 2s with the same Sanyo 10s2p pack I could get around 22 kilometers of range, I hope I can get the same but I’m not sure if outboard motors use more power then hub mottors
Remote: This is not a big deal but I don’t really like the nano remote but I like the mini remote even less. There doesn’t seem to be an easy solution to this in the DIY world.
This is definetely not an original build, I’ve seen a lot of similar builds on the forum in the past but recently skatemetric released a video with actual benchmarks of a similar build and it stacked really well against other boards (Raptor 2, Boosted) so those number convinced me to do this.
Everything has been ordered earlier this week, now waiting.
The Sanyo NCR20700B cells are rated for 15A continuous, maybe double that for burst (60A in pack). Also the wires (and XT60) coming out of the pack make it look like it was meant for a single motor build.
Dual motor builds are more resistant to belt slippage since there is basically double the number of teeth taking the load.
Belt drive is slightly less efficient since you have friction losses in the belt. Probably not a huge difference though.
14 AWG is not enough for a dual setup. I used 10 gauge for runs that carried the full current, and 12 where it splits.
You can find the sensor extension cables from almost anyone who sells or sold VESCs.
That 10s2p pack is for the dual hub motor meepo board, I haven’t noticed the 14 gauge wire they use! Hopefully it will be ok since it’s a short distance. I was hoping to use XT60s all over the build for space savings, but I also have 5.5mm bullet connectors, maybe that’s a better compromise.
I thought a lot about the 10s2p vs 10s4p. With 20 extra cells I would add an extra 2.65 lbs, but it would also mean that I would have to build my own battery and the perfectly fitting metal case I got from ownboard wouldn’t work either so I would have to find something else like the eboosted enclosures.
I realize that the battery will be a bottle neck on this build, but hoping Sanyo 10s2p will be good enough to make it stronger then a boosted stealth and have more range.
XT60’s should be good enough, but keep in mind they are only rated for 60A continuous. I used XT90 where needed. Cruising current is of course lower than that limit, but I like to play it safe.
It should be able to keep up with a boosted stealth. Also keep in mind that Meepo tends to be Cheapo.
I’m thinking of building my first esk8 with very similar components to yours @gmurad. If you already have the Ownboard enclosures, could you please measure the max. usable internal size of the battery enclosure? This would help me a lot to decide what kind of a batteries I could play with. Thanks in advance!
It’s hard to measure the useable “square” space in the enclosure. It’s full of non-square angles.
What kind of batteries are you considering? I highly recommend @Eboosted’s enclosure, it would fit much nicer on the Vanguard. The only reason I’m using the owboard enclosure is because I’m using the meepo Sanyo Battery that was on Sale and is a direct fit on that enclosure. I’m already regretting that decision as I’m planning on opening up that pack and making it a 10s3p or 10s4p.
Thanks for the images. I was considering lipos or a bit differently assembled 10s2p packs that are available from some EU vendors. But after seeing eboosted’s enclosures I’m temped to build my own… Let’s see.
I set Battery max to 20A for each VESC so it’s drawing 40 amps max and there is some heavy voltage drop in the graphs since I’m using a 2p pack. I know the Sanyo 20700b is tested to do well with 16A continuous discharge without overheating so my question is:
Is my setting of Max 20 Amps for each VESC too aggressive?
Another setting that I’m concerned about are the cutoffs, I think I have soft and hard at 31 and 28V
Sweet lord! Nice build there! I’m completely new to the eSk8-world but whenever there’s a question about batteries I’d run with Mooch’s tests and recommendations. He’s been testing 18650s for the vaping world for ages and there’s a test of the Sanyo 20700b’s up on e-cigarette-forum, too.
In vaping it’s not a big deal to exceed the continuous discharge rating by a good tad cause we’re only pulling those amps for a couple of seconds at a time. For an esk8, though, I’d stick with the given (i.e. Mooch-tested) limit because you’re pulling in a rather continuous manner. Everything above that is quite likely gonna ruin/degrade your batteries much quicker than usual/necessary.