Very good to know. I had some pretension on the back but ZERO in the front. Hopefully once I get all 4 pre tensioned and put the dampas in the back it’ll be even more stable at~30mph.
Checked the @kaly motor mounts today after my first ride and to my disappointment they had both been broken free. Unfortunately these trucks make it nearly impossible to securely mount motor mounts. I had put the infinity trucks on a drill press and used an end mill bit to cut 4 “pads” as square as possible for the set screws to be able to bite on a flat surface. Followed the torquing pattern by the book as well per Kaly (inner finger side, outside opposite that, bottom, then finally the top side). Not sure where to go from here now.
Damn dude that would be super helpful. I’m sure you guys know Kaly well around these forums but it is so damn refreshing to have such amazing support out there, especially when you are relatively new to all this. He got me everything expedited initially so that I could get this build together quickly, as well as helping me over the phone multiple times.
Take DIY on the other hand… I order 2 antispark switches and both of them fail in the first use on two separate setups (which virtually eliminates anything weird/wrong on my end). I do some research and find a thread here where my exact isssue is happening to multiple people. The fets blow immediately which keeps the power essentially stuck open making the board impossible to turn off via power button. I contact them and they make me upload a video on a website to show the exact problem. I do that and then they request that I ship both units back on my own dime (despite just seeing my uploaded video of their faulty product mind you) for them to inspect them. So their customer service puts me out a week or more on my build, costs me more money to ship, all for getting replacements which will more than likely fail as well.
Sorry for the rant… I just realize this is a very small community, so in industries such as this where there isn’t much competition it can be easy to not have to go the extra mile (or hell even just do what is right haha). This makes it even that much more pleasant that there are people out there like Kaly that are just super psyched to get people up and riding.
Can’t wait to get this thing sorted out. I’m already crazy addicted to the power!
They use specially shaped M8 flat spotted, rotatable ball tip stainless set screws in combination with a 12mm thick bracket from 6061T6 alloy. The screws are made to our specification by a German precision manufacturer.
So a little update: I realized that I might not have max watts limit box checked and set. According to my friend he thinks that this means I won’t actually be in watts mode, but current mode.
If this is true this explains A TON. haha
Update update: apparently watt mode was still active (@jinra confirmed) but with no limit. I checked and the settings weren’t identical between the two escs and I had zero throttle curve (I thought I saved it but must’ve not hit write).
The board is now smooth as can be. @Ackmaniac sorry man! Your software is freaking smooth as butter. Just have to have the right settings … and more importantly the same settings if you have multiple escs lmao…
Update update update lol: I spoke too soon once again. The turbo boost happens where there is noise on the current sensor at the higher end of duty cycle. So I know there is a way to limit duty cycle… but if I do that I’m limiting top speed correct?
