This is not a 20Ah 6S setup. This wiring diagram will give you the equivalent of a 10Ah 6S pack (that’s what i run on my beater board), which is somewhere around 220 Wh as Volts x Amp Hours will give you Watt Hours.
You have 2 3S 5Ah packs in series, that gives you 6S (22.2 volts nominal) at 5Ah. Then you take those two sides and combine them in parallel to get 6S @ 10Ah. In series, voltage doubles. In parrallel, Amp hours double.
The good news is that you can combine the balance charge leads and use the mains output as discharge and charge with a standard 6S charger. That means you can make a charge cable and seal your box in and not have to deal with the battery wiring when charging.
You just answered the question i was about to ask, thanks! (I was wondering whether or not I would be able to charge on a single port, if i merged the balance ports).
From the other comments i gathered I’d need higher voltage so I made some calculations, and i think I’m going to go with 2x 4s 8000mAh 30C instead. This would give me an approximate range of 1+hour at 17+mph, which would satisfy my range need
That sounds about right as long as you’re under… say… 160 pounds or so. I’m 155 and I get about an hour out of my 10Ah 6S when keeping it around 15 on average and only bursting up to 25+ when i see a cyclist that needs to be annoyed. 8S should land you right where you expect it to.
There are soo much planning that goes into picking components, it’s so damn hard to keep track of. I think I finally got the essentials. I know some of you guys here are sticklers for components. So this is what I’ve come to:
not hating on enertion, but don’t buy the trucks, wheels, or lipo charger from them.
you can get the real caliber trucks (which is even better, and come in some sick colors… like seriously, just look’em up) for less than enertion’s knockoff versions if you look on amazon or ebay.
the wheels are just knockoff 83mm flywheels: you can get those for around $25-30 on ebay (you can get any color too), or the real ones for about $70 on abec’s website.
You can get a lipo charger from hobbyking for under $50 that will do the same thing enertion’s does too… I have one from amazon that is really solid and it was $45… looks just like enertion’s too.
to be honest, with the money you’d save doing the things I pointed out (about $100-110), you could just switch your batter to a space cell, and forget the lipo charger and lipos all together… plus, you board would be about 100x better.
adding 325 for a space cell
taking away 35ish saved on wheels and trucks
taking away 210ish for a charger and batteries
take away 4.50 for a voltage alarm (built into space cell)
take away 60 for switch (built into space cell)
take away the misc xt90 plugs balancing plug because the space cell already comes with an xt60 that matches the one that comes with the VESC.
so I think your build might become 10$ more expensive, or 10$ cheaper after adding a space cell, but it would litterally be SOOO much better… Higher voltages are always better for efficiency, motor temps, speed, and torque; especially since you are going with a single motor build.
again, not hating on enertion stuff: Jason makes some badass mounts and electronics (hense why I am recommending the space cell as your best option) … just get your skate stuff elsewhere.
First of all, thank so for taking you time to look at this!
I have looked at all the parts you described (Maybe i looked in the wrong places?) and the thing is that shipping to Denmark is insanely expensive, but with Enertion the shipping is free. The changes you suggest would actually increase the cost by more than 100$
Making the switch (Battery-wise) would cost me approximately 25$ more (definitely a lot less then I thought, I’m considering upgrading now) bringing my total over a whopping 1000$
so ya, just go enertion because of the shipping. I was looking on Ebay at the wheels and trucks I suggested, and shipping was going to be over $40 to denmark. Most of them had free US shipping, and like I said, I didn’t realize you weren’t in the states!
and believe me man, the battery upgrade is completely worth it: the performance difference is like night and day. You definitely won’t regret it.
@Krudte whaaaat, so im not the only danish E-board builder! :o. How far did you get in your build, and are you by any chance from Odense or Copenhagen?
Hey nice that the intrest is spreading I’m originally from Amager but I live in Odense currently because of my Studies at SDU. As to the build, Well I didn’t get far, as I’m currently getting my bachelors degree, and that consumes most of my time. I did fiberglass a deck with some custom print, but the build is currently standing still.
Cool, im actually also gonna begin on SDU after summer break, Im finishing up a course I am taking in Copenhagen (only 1 week left, wohoo) and then im moving back to Odense (im in Odense now for the weekend, testing an airplane 12s esc that I had laying around, but without much luck).
I actually have a finished and reliable board with at least 500 km on it. Though I am planning to make some serious upgrading to it for moar speed!, the police here dont really mind electric longboards as long as you don’t go over 25km/h on bike roads, they have bigger fish to fry I suppose. (apparently they are understaffed atm, but I really dont think they would mind either way)
Remember that you need to pay around 1/3 of the price of the enertion order in toll.
Nice meeting you and lemme know if you need any help building
Making the switch (Battery-wise) would cost me approximately 25$ more (definitely a lot less then I thought, I’m considering upgrading now) bringing my total over a whopping 1000$