My first 400$ e-board. Need some help :)

Hey guys!

Recently got inspired by Casey Neistat and his boosted board to create my own! As I’m a student the budget was to be kept low and as such these are the items i went with;

46$: Rotostar 120A SBEC - I forgot to buy a programming card so i have no clue what the beep sequences are :frowning:

20$: Quanum Tx and Rx - Surprisingly small which is a good thing

51$: Motor mount from enertion - Quality stuff. My trucks are round so i just tightened these as much as possible

39$: 12mm pulley kit from enertion - Drilled holes in my wheels and just shoved the big pulley in there

167$: 6372 motor from enertion - This thing is a beast.

70$: 2x 5000mah 3s LiPOs - Cheaper all in all and thinner i think

Total: 393 USD (the prices may be slighty off)

I had a longboard laying around that i simply mounted all of this stuff on. I am not a guy who does things neatly and as such i simply taped all the components to the hull of my board and went to the races. This thing accelerates incredibly fast and the top speed is borderline scary. A huge success all in all! :slight_smile: I have a few problems that i might need some sage advice on.

  1. My ESC is a rotostar 120a SBEC bought from hobbyking. They don’t list the beep sequences for programming it and i forgot to buy a programming card in my frenzy. The two main problems with it is the braking and the acceleration. The brake simply stops the motor in its tracks which is scary when you are going 25km/h. The acceleration is that of a helicopter so it slowly ramps up which isn’t too bad but i’d like it to go a little faster.

  2. Like i said before my trucks are round. This doesn’t favour the caliber shaped motor mount bought from enertion. I realize that trucks being round is fairly stupid in this case but i was wonder if you had some advice on how to make it more bearable. Perhaps filling the hole somehow or adding additional set screws?

  3. Right now everything is taped to the bottom of my longboard. What cases do you guys recommend? I’m not looking to make something advanced with ABS but just a simple box would do.

  4. How much does wire diameter affect charging? My esc and batteries used 12AWG but my charging wires are way smaller. Can they charge efficiently?

  5. Thank you to all of the guys on here that make men become giddy kids again (:

First. You allocate the budget slightly off. You shoulf be getting cheaper sk3 motor compared to enertion rspec if you are thight on budget.

Second. Please get single caliber truck hanger for the motor mount. It saves you money and less trial and error with mount fitting. You should be getting mount from other vendor that does the job.

Third. 12 awg is fine.

Fourth. Please get that programming card. I suppose you use a HV esc which dont have variable braking. So either brake or no brake at all. This is why at cheap range you should stick to either car esc or boat esc. Car esc have variable braking but noisy.

But please consider buying new trucks. Theres no hackable way to solve that easily.

My list of things wrong, you should have bought a $50 149kv off HK and spent $60 on 3 4S lipos @ HK again. Esc is unkown to me and I would have gone with vesc/Tq12S/FVT6S. Kinda fucked list you put together and you cost yourself a lot of money there. 190kv on 23V is a waste of good enertion product

Sorry for the pessimistic outlook, but you wont get you moneys worth out.

my $400 board

$40 6S FVT $70 tacon/sk3 $50 6S lipo $30 charger. $20 tx/rx $130 TQ mount combo

Or change the FVT for a $100 vesc and double the batterys


God damn 167 bucks for a motor.

I have plenty of experience with that remote too. It’s no good. 4 triple a batteries die after an hour of use and then the connection deterierates and the board becomes dangerous.

If you would have come to us first we could have made your 400 dollarS work for you harder.

not sure about that esc.

The motor is way too expensive and too good with incredible torque, however if the mounting and the electronics suck it will underperform for sure. The underperformance might not come from electronics, but from your trucks motor mount locking mechanism. Theres no way on earth tightening it very hard would keep it secure.

The ESC is fine all esc with capable 6s and at least 70A ++ would work. However there is a huge possibility of unworkable brake (none / 100%). No matter if you have program card or not.

I think a 6374 192kv Hobbyking would blow @onloop motors out of the fucking water if we spent another $100 on the Hobbyking 6374. Then the price would be the same and better performance. Should spent $200 on a motor/mounting combo and $200 on the vesc/lipo combo for 12S power.


listen to you guys…

none of you own an R-SPEC motor? so you are not speaking from experience are you? please tell me I’m wrong…

Also, please tell me you know the stator length inside the SK3 6374… you do know that motor has an internal fan which means the stator is not the same size as the enertion 6374.

the stator inside the 6374 is about 20% bigger.

but you guys know all this, right?

ALSO, why not go a bit easier on the OP, i know you are all ‘experts’ but doesn’t mean you have to rip the guy to shreds!

This forum is not a platform for flaming people, so tone it down.


ALSO< I forgot to mention, the SK3 is actually much smaller than the R-SPEC, check the diameter of the SK3 it’s not actually a 63mm motor, it’s only 59mm, the actual length is less than what you would expect too.

you guys know this stuff, right?

Theres no doubt rspec is larger with higher performance. Theres less issue about it. But this is all about thight budget and get the overal best performance, realistically.

The point is that why good motor without adequate or balanced mount. The torque of rpsec will dismantle and broke the mount and the cylindrical hanger which is being over thighten.

I do want an rspec as well when I completely destroyed the sk3.

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I’m working on some non-caliper trucks and the Enertion mount. I’ve filed it down to fit my trucks and I’m going to retap the set screws and drill small holes in the trucks and tap those so the set screws go all the way into the trucks. I don’t think it’s going to go anywhere then. But only time will tell.

But is the Rspec worth the extra $100? I would say not based on the other builds

Thank you so much for all the replies! I realize it ended up on the expensive side and the stuff could have been more compatible. The main factor as to why it ended up so expensive is because i need a motor mount. There were only two places i could get one; either enertion or the DIY skateboard site. Enertion offered free shipping for anything above 300 AUD which is like 256 USD which is a good deal in my opinion. In order to hit that shipping mark i bought the mount, can say it is extremely high quality now that i’ve tried it, the motor and the pulley set. These three items got me to the 256$ mark. The LIPOs, ESC and Tx+Rx were all from hobbyking as they shipped from EU or so i thought. In the end i got tons of import tax anyway which sort of negated the free shipping and all that jazz. I’ve ridden my board for two days now and i’ve only got a few qualms with the performance. I can’t program the ESC for variable braking as i dont know the beep sequences and i dont have a program card, the battery time isn’t super duper great but definitely gets me 10km and lastly the fact that i can’t ride it in the rain. Speaking of rain I’m wondering if getting water in the engine will flat out kill it?

I would just like to thank you guys again for your advice and telling me that a lot of my choices are questionable, which in all fairness they are haha. I will definitely frequent the forums more so I can fix these last problems of mine :slight_smile: Huge shout out to Enertion for giving me the tools to make a board that makes me want to go outside more!

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Hi, I know this thread is old but this is around my budget. Would you mind telling me what kind of range/speed this gets you?

For a low budget build like this one I’d recommend torqueboards single motor mechanical kit. That would cover your trucks, pullies, wheels and mount for 200 bucks. Then you could either stick to torqueboards and get the 120A 6S ESC and his 260kV 6355 motor (free shipping over 300) or you could get a 6354 260kV SK3 and an xcar beast from hobby king which might be a little cheaper. You’ll also need a 6S lipo and a remote (GT2-B would be best) which you can get from hobbyking as well.

That being said, I’d definitely recommend getting a 6374 190kV motor, a VESC and a 10S battery. It really wouldn’t be that much more expensive and it would have more torque and a significantly higher top speed.

With either setup you can tune your top speed by choosing either the 13T pulley or the 16T with the mechanical kit.

You could can calculate top speed here:

Range is calculated by multiply voltage and amp hours to get watt hours (Ah*V=Wh). A general estimate is that 10Wh = 1km of range.

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no idea but less than 10 klicks and less than 30 kph

also all up weight should be less than 70 kilos

If you’re in the position to, I’d recommend spending more (again) and getting a Hobbywing Quicrun 150A ESC - I think it’s basically their top-of-the-line ESC. It’s what I’ve been using almost every week since about August. Solid ESC for 6S applications and there’s the optional programming card which you really need as you can change settings in seconds. The two links are for a store here in the UK, not sure if they’ll be helpful for buying but you can look at them to see what you’re looking for on US websites.

I’d be interested to know how the RSPEC motor works under 6S power - as they’re usually used on high-voltage builds.

Merry Christmas! :slight_smile: