Hey guys! So I have been lurking these forums for a month now and have had a Meepo v2 with the tesla battery for 3 weeks. I absolutely love it but I already know I want more. I was prepared to drop 2k on a board but nothing I could find prebuilt can give me what I wanted, which is why I just went with a meepo for the time being. My goal now is to slowly piece together a true high speed cruiser with good range. Here is the parts list I have whipped up so far. Deck: Hi5ber Jalapeno —$300— https://www.hi5ber.com/jalapeno Battery: 12s4p samsung 30g w/ 4A charger and enclosure —$545— https:///products/electric-skateboard-battery-epower-pack-12s4p Drivetrain: Torque D Drive 90kv —$750— https:///products/torqueboards-direct-drive-motor-kit?variant=12960752795671 ESC: FOXBOX Unity —$250— https://www.enertionboards.com/focbox-speed-controller/focbox-unity-dual-motor-foc-controller-esc/ Controller: Hoyt Puck —$190— https://hoyt-st.myshopify.com/products/speed-puck-remote-control-and-receiver For a grand total of $2040!!! Ouch. Although I am prepared to spend that much I want to make sure I do it right the first time. I am looking to hit 40mph (although I really just want to be able to hit 35 with mild effort) and have a range of 20 miles give or take. Should that be possible with this setup? Any advice or criticism is welcomed. Thank you for you time, Patrick.
You’ll have to learn trigger discipline to achieve 20miles on a charge, but you should be able to get at least 15 miles at 15wh/km ezpz
Looks like a great build, and Imho the piece de resistance will be your deck.
Thank you! My only concern is getting the enclosure on a CF deck. I was planning on using a self tapping thread set with JB weld to hold it in but I am worried about drilling into CF. Not sure how it handles it compared to wood.
Hmm well my average while riding fast was 18-20 miles I could get 30 miles out of my TB 12s4p with trigger discipline with my dual 6374 build. But maybe the direct drive 1:1 ratio will affect range.
Btw @ApexMONSTER you got your self a real good build going on those are all quality parts you will not be disappointed.
I just did a quick range estimate, 432 wh- 40km /5x3 - 24 miles
That’s assuming 10wh/km, and although I don’t know what the impact of the dds are, I figure it’s slightly higher 🤷
TB 12s4p is 532wh not 432 that would be a 10s4p 30q
Woops you’re totally right duh. I missed the 12 x)
You might need to route the receiver for the controller outside of the deck, alot of members have had issues with carbon fiber decks and 2.4ghz connection
That’s only if the deck and enclosure is CF if the enclosure is not CF then there should not be a problem. CF blocks radio signals.
Personally I would still do it… Any extra guarantee that I’ll have a bulletproof connection 🤷
Nice parts collection. Going to be a great build. I especially like the deck choice. Only thing I would change is the remote. If you are going all out with the spending then choose something a bit better than the nano x. Its not a great choice at all. https://forum./t/esk8-remotes-garbage-or-greatness/33
Have a read here for some different options lovingly compiled by our very own @mmaner Personally I use the maytech and the benchwheel and both are infinitely better than the nano in any of its incarnations. If you are used to the meepo remote then the benchwheel is probably the closest option and the cheapest. Good luck with the build and keep us updated.
Thank you! What awesome feedback, I can already tell I’m gonna love this community! This is the kind of info I need. I know about the issues with CF and radio signal so the plastic enclosure should be fine. If needed I’ll think about routing it out the side of the enclosure or something. The only thing I am really uncertain about is how you guys mount these enclosures on the deck. Self Tapping threads seems to be the go to method but on a CF deck is it just gonna crack and be brittle or will it drill like wood?
Wow very surprising the 2nd most expensive one in that list is probably the worst. I guess its Hoyt puck then!
this is the way most of us do the mounting but with carbon/fibreglass I would be using some epoxy on the inserts. Not much but enough to really get them solid.
Awesome. Wow So I guess I am set. Are there any little adapters I need to hook everything up? I am pretty sure with the FOCBOX Unity and the battery that has the BMS and everything built in it should be plug and play right?
I’m not sure about the TB DD but most motors will have a hall sensor cable that does not directly plug into the ESC so you may need an adaptor. Cheapest I’ve found was from Flipsky but took about a month to get here from china. TB sells them they are pricy but you can get them in days.
Why do people dislike the nano x? I’ve tried both, and love them equally (nano x used to get stuck, but seems to have fixed itself). I’m now using the APS remote because it’s bigger (I have big hands), and my little brother has my nano x.
Edit: My ideal remote would be a slightly bigger nano x; the APS has too many buttons and switches for my liking (also doesn’t fit in your pocket)
Here it is, you need one per motor.
Thank you sir. Word on these streets is your a heavyweight carving up the concrete! I love that. I am no giant but I am 6’1" at 215 lbs so no spring chicken either. Its good to see that being heavy isn’t an issue with these little torque monsters.
Its very much a personal thing to be honest but if you have never used anything else then the nano would probably be ok. I find the throttle throw too short and the curve too snatchy. Once you try a better option then you won’t turn back. If the form factor of the nano is what you like then the benchwheel is so much better. Much longer wheel travel and just smoother all round. As I said though, it really is what you get used to. I feel like I harp on about this far too much but the remote in my opinion should be one of the most researched and tested items on anyones build list and no amount of money is too much for the security of knowing you have complete control.