My First (slightly ambitious) Compact 33" Dual-AT build - Restless Mantis - Flipsky - Haggy/Bergmeister

Now that I actually have a bunch of my parts in my hands, and some proper plans to go with them, I thought it was time to make an actual build thread!

Here’s the board I’ll be using, a nice and compact little 33" board by Mantis.

20190504_031847 20190504_031832 Here is some pics of my NESE modules, along with my home-made mounting solution. Those rails will be mounted to the board with some wood-inserts that I will need to drill some holes for… which I’m slightly worried about haha.

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Hoping this will all sit nicely in place when the inserts are installed… Might end up having to re-model the rails and re-print them. Having a 3D printer has become a real help on this project!

The wheels I originally bought wouldn’t work on the trucks I have, so in the next few days I have some nice red Bergmeisters turning up.

Also I have a pair of 170kv motors, but I’ll save those updates for when I have the wheels so I can do a test-fit assembly of the entire trucks/wheels/motors.


Looks nice. Following this.

I have 2 comments/questions

  1. Does the board have flex? If so, I would suggest to make the NESE mounts independent of each other. If it’s minor flex then your current setup can handle it.
  2. you can use counter sunk bolt from underneath to mount the NESE box. The way you have mounted now using locknuts takes too much vertical space in my opinion.

For 2 - Do you mean the bolts I’m using for each individual box? I agree, however for this test fit I couldn’t do this, as I had already printed these boxes and it turns out the holes on the top of the box (where the bolts go through) are not quite big enough to hold a nut. My plan is to use a drill (or something… not sure yet) to widen the top of the hole a little, so that I can then slot a nut in there flush with the top of the nese. (It has to be flush, or the lid won’t fit properly). So yeh, for the final build the bolts will go upwards not downwards! If I can figure out how to widen the hole without wrecking the plastic… Otherwise I’ll just re-model the hole and re-print the modules, but that’s a plan B for now!

1 - The board does flex, but so do the mounts. The plastic rails have a fair bit of flex to them, and I’ve printed them so they are strong lengthways, so they should (hopefully) be able to flex without breaking.

The reason I linked them together, was so that they could support each other. This means I can use 2 Bolts per NESE, 10 bolts in total for the battery, and have it be stable. If I had the modules independant, I’d probably have to use 4 bolts per nese or it might wobble… and this means 20 drill holes in the board instead of just 10! If that makes sense haha

Use 3mm insert. Something like this.

That absolutely makes sense. I do think it’s nice that you only have to drill half the number of holes into the deck.

Interesting… I am using those inserts (a 4mm version for the M4 bolts) for going into my board, I had not considered using them in the NESE modules instead of nuts. The round shape may well make it easier to fit them in compared to the hexagonal nut. I’ll order a set and give it a try!

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What I may do, if the flex becomes a problem, is split up the modules so that they are grouped into a pair and a triple, meaning they have a little more leeway to flex. Luckily having a 3D printer means I can experiment with options!

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Current job - I need to figure out a charger for my 10s BMS. Also need to find a female socket for said charger, that can be fitted flush to an enclosure but with a waterproof cap over it.

Personally, i would avoid these brass/zinc plated style inserts… bought some myself and easily broke the external threads that go into board on a couple. I would do steal inserts, like E-Z Lok. Just my 2 cents, it could work out fine for you tho. These are what i ordered, They also have stainless for a bit more if thats a concern. Nice looking build, like your mounting solution.

I did look for steel ones initially, but I ran into some issues with the length limitations I had. The brass ones I have now seem pretty decently made, if I have any issues I have some spares too. If they do end up stripping themselves I can get a refund and try and find some steel in the right size.

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Today’s update is mostly pictures, now that I have most of the bits I need!

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I considered mounting the motors under the board, but they’ll reduce the space I have for my enclosure and space is already pretty tight under there. They don’t stick out much on the back though, and it also seems to mean that I can drop-mount the trucks and still be ok.

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