Hello Community, going with my second build. A carbon fiber drop through board, mainly I want a name for her but also suggestions like built in grab handles, nose and tail sheilds and whatnot. So heres the specs of the build. 12s4p Sony Konion TC6. =43.2 Nominal voltage, 12480Mah, 120Amp. 12s80Amp Bms will be used. Dual 6374 230Kv 3200w powerplants. Dual vesc, current draw from battery set to 50amps, to motors 50amps? (are theses settings okay?) 97mm Wheels, 12mm 13 tooth motor pulleys, 12mm 265mm belts for 12mm 36 tooth drive pulleys. The front wheels will have 40 tooth 12mm pulleys mounted and I’ll keep 280mm belts in my bag, to change my ratio whenever by swapping the wheels and belts around. These specs should give me top speeds of 66km/h or 59km/h by swapping wheels. Also I’ve seen it on this forum before, I want to have the battery percentage mounted in the front trucks and the switch and charging port in the back, thing is neither of them will fit in the hole so do I make an enclosure for them or put them somewhere else…
“Red Carbon” “Red n’ Black Maniac” “Carbon Machine” “MetaMeme” “MegaMeme” “Badass Nuclear Reactor”
Seriously with the parts you listed this thing is going to be a fucking monster. Bookmarked. Can’t wait to see the final results.
Also - I think @longhairedboy will have some good ideas for a name as well
50A Batt max each Vesc or 50A total and 25A each? If it’s 50A each that’s too high. the VTC6’s are rated for 15A discharge, so while you can probably push them a bit to 20A like the 30Q’s you probably shouldn’t as it can lead to thermal runaway. I’d go for 40A each vesc tops at 4p. You also have some serious motors with dual 6374’s so you probably want to crank that motor max to 60-80A each VESC and pair it with @Ackmaniac’s f/w for better control.
For your BMS leads, since your P- is too long and your B- is too short, just cut some of the wire on P- and solder it to the B-. Otherwise if it’s still to short or the wire is too thin, get some 10-12awg (I recommend 12) cable and replace the B- lead.
Sweet build plan @memesupreme!
My suggestions - skip the dual gears. I would pick the 40t wheels and be done with it. Couple reasons - 1. weight!, and 2-rocks/damage. Without the belts protecting, and even on 97mm’s the gears exposed will be easy to hit on everything and you’ll mangle them. Plus be carrying around the extra weight all the time for no real reason. And a measly 59kmh/37mph! holy crap dude. Be safe and wear appropriate gear.
What motor mounts are you running? I have some measurements of CtC so i can quickly guess belt lengths for different gearing w/ bbman belt length calculator. Happy to share and if it is what you use - great!
Enertion mount (blue/carbon): 66-76mm
KorryH’s mount: 66-77mm
DIYes v4 mount: 60-75mm
DIYes v2 modular mount: (need to re-measure - i’ll add later)
Love the new 218mm trucks from DIYes! Kudos to @torqueboards for making these available to the community, and respectably priced for a unique option!
Wheels - SWEET! Love the clear red 75a of those ABEC 11’s! I see they aren’t out yet, still showing “pre-order” “around mid MAY”. hehehe. Great option and i’ll keep an eye out for them next time i need 97’s.
Bearings - i like rush bearings, but for the price i’d look at some similar priced built-in bearings for better alignment and easier wheel swap/maintenance vs standard and spacers. Rout makes some nice ceramic ones, Zealous ceramics, or $ Tektons (my personal fave, but ~$70 cheapest on ebay so about 2x cost).
BMS - swap wires. Upgrade to higher quality silicone/flexy wires exactly the length you need and avoid splicing. If you are going to do it…
Names - Red theme… Hell Raiser, Firestick, Red Mamba (like black mamba - deadly, but 20% faster!)… But really until the king of fun names contributes… @longhairedboy bat-signal!
Will follow - GL!
how about “the kim jong-un supreme leader meme eater” build
Krusher Deathany Baron Von Evolvefucker Skatington Thrashenheimer Streetslayer Widowmaker Lord Darkmotor Hotrod McCoils Fuckyoutron 9000 Victor Urethanium
These are all beautiful names! Thanks heaps, I’m sure LHB would love the name Evolve fucker, this board will literally do just that!
I haven’t bought the cells, so if the 30 Q would be better and maybe 5 in parallel then I’ll defiantly go with that, just gotta get some more cell spacers. so with that you reckon 40 amp from the battery and 60-80 for the motor? 12awg cables, got it.thankyouu
If I were to buy cells now I’d definitely want to pick up the 30Q’s since I heard so many good things about them. They’re rated for the same discharge as the VTC6 @ 15A so with 5 in parallel you should be able to set at least 75/2 amps battery max.
sweet as thankyou. Im estimating that the electronics of this build will be done in about a month max, however I want to make the deck after the electronics are done, I’ll have to first design the deck and run force simulations on it so I can make the strongest, cheapest and lightest deck, dad’s not going to help make the deck until i show him how it strong it is, so I’m guessing another month for the deck. I’ll continue to post updates of where I’m at
Hey correct me if I’m wrong but running 230kv motors on 12s is over the vescs erpm limit so you would either have to make a smaller battery or set a limit on the vesc. The only other thing is to use vesc 6
Your right, 230 is too high for 12s 81144 erpm
If the vesc 6 can handle it then I’ll save my dual vesc for a different build and buy some vesc 6’s, they look pretty similar to the vesc x
My current diy does 45 ish and I wear a helmet and knee pads, I have some motorbike armor and leg guards that I will use considering the speed of this board. But yeah DIYes V4 mounts what I’m looking at. also just had a look at tekton ceramics, I think that’s what ill go with, I like the idea of built in spacers. So far Hell Raiser, Red Mamba, @longhairedboy Deathany and Baron Von Evolvefucker are my favourite names haha thanks guys
how do jou make the current flow to your motors larger than the current flow to your VESC @Jinra
using the bldc tool you can do it, my vesc x on my first build had settings where the current draw from the battery was lower than the flow to motor, I don’t know what it is but it works
so you just program it in?
I Guess, I’d like to know how it works though