Need a lookover on my build and a few questions I have before buying

ESK8 Builds
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#1

Been compiling a list of questions as im researching and learning the last bits of info before i decide to build this 12s8p battery/board. Any help is very appreciated.

Heres a googlesheets link to the parts i’m talking about with their product links.

  1. not sure which BMS to get all the options are overwhelming I landed on this- 11S 12S 13S 14S 15S 36V 48V 58.8V 60V smart BMS with Bluetooth function UART communication 20A to 60A constant current – LLT POWER ELECTRONIC

Which has only C- and B- ports. In this tutorial i’m following, P- is wired to the charge port, and B- wired from the negative battery lead , leaving -C unused.

Heres a drawing I made to help visualize everything better - https://imgur.com/a/nICGNsI

this part has been messing me up and i cant understand it, makes me want to buy the mboard bms and call it a day; but i want the bluetooth function to be able to monitor cells like im used to on a lacroix.

  1. Whats the process like for wiring front headlights to run off the boards battery? I have the lights and connectors. And if i wanted to add an LED screen battery indicator, adding these things are fascinating but i have no idea how its put together.

  2. Will be using a SF12 connector for the charging port and on the receiving end of the WATE charger. My question is i can safely solder on that new connector?

  3. The different flux deck/enclosure options is confusing me, im leaning for the “Flux AT DIY Kit” with the new deck design, but some builds ive seen are done on the old shiny style enclosure. the DIY kit also has all the holes and heatsink i need for the stormcore. Need some guidance lol i cant afford to buy the wrong stuff at these price points

Just laying out my plans, need to hear if i’m doing something wrong. Might have more to add but my notepad is getting unorganized. Thanks.

#2

You can use c- as your charger instead so that you dont need to be confused since p- would be the discharge lead to some bms. Other bms do not have a discharge p- so you won’t discharge from it. That’s pretty much it. Same thing if there’s no C- but has a p-.

You’ll need an inverter that lowers the high voltage, to a very low voltage level. But, depending on the esc or bms, you can use that to power up lights. But the process of all of this is long and You’ll need to find good tutorials about this.

Battery indicator is simple though. Just solder the wires on the battery accordingly.

I would add a fuse on the charge wire of the bms if you’re using that. You can solder that on safely, BUT, you will need to check if its properly installed.

The first one is compatible with the stormcore. No issues.

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#3

Got a reply from the OP of the tutorial and said it was a mistake, and it should have been wired to C-. The BMS i’m buying only has C- & B-

i got a fuse going from the positive battery to the charge port, when you say add to the ‘charge wire of the BMS’ is that the wire going to B- ?

I guess this is the process for the DC converting - Using a DC-DC converter to power E-Bike headlights - YouTube

These steps are kinda beyond me i dont think wiring would be worth it. I see how its done on the lacroix thru the sentinel board and thought it would be so easy

#4

Yeah, p- is only on certain bms that doesn’t have c-.

You did it. Charge wire to the charge port. I think it goes on the positive charge wire. I forgot but i believe you got it.

That’s the one. And yes, its a lot of work. Its not as simple since most esk8 companies uses a specific esc/system to do it.

#5

Got it.

Yeah in my drawing; fuse is on the positive charge wire, like it was done in the video tutorial.

I can see why its done this way when you’re producing boards, simple plug and play by the looks of it.

#6

Im a bit biased to picking up a cnlinko SP20 connector(I like the metal clasp) but the tutorial im following is using an SF12. I found both

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07WJRWCJ2/

and will go thru the same process of changing the 12s chargers port to either of these connectors, but is there any reason why i should use one over the other?

#7

To be honest here, you’re only connecting the positive and negative wires for charging. I think its best to look at how much amps can the socket take. The choice is honestly yours. I just went with the classic 5.5mm connector-plug for mine.

#8

You need a helmet.

Most of that looks solid, but I would buy a battery. It’s not really worth it to learn to build one, buy all the stuff to do so, fuck one up, and then build one. I’d just buy one from a reputable builder who supplies lots of high-resolution photos and is very clear about what cells and parts they use.

#9

Solid advice, but im too deep in to turn around. Building a battery was always a huge, near-impossible feat, but there’s been nothing I havent been able to do. With the amount of great content and information, ive been able to map out all the work involved and am pretty confident going forward.

id also would like to build a pack for when it comes time to replace my 18S battery in a few years, and potentially an ebike battery

i’d be paying about $1000 more than i should for the 12s8p battery when i can use that in buying what I need to make it

#10

The reason I decided to make my own batteries as well. But I do power tool batteries. Very similar, but works the same.

Inb4 someone calls fire hazard :upside_down_face:

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#11

I’d like to have the battery completed before going out and making 8 orders for all the board parts I need. Can i just check the final pack voltage at the end of the built (or touching bms ) via multimeter, to see the full voltage of the pack and see if everything is working?

do i absolutely need to have a board/vesc to plug it into ?

#12

Yes. Always check with that.

No. Multimeter on DC voltage is good. If it doesn’t add up to the required battery you’re making, something went wrong.

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