NEED HELP PLEASE- Taking apart a Turnigy SK3 brushless motor

NEED HELP! My friend created a keyway slot on my Turnigy 6374 motor, it so happens that after he finish the job, he placed my motor on top of a tabled that had many metal shaving from him doing his normal job. So, my motor got full of metal shavings all over and INSIDE OF THE INSIDE MAGNETS. I’ve watched so many youtube video on dissasembling the motor. Any way, i took out the 4 main screws around the barrel and i’ve pulled so much that only about a 1/5 of the 74mm only comes out. I’ve tried using two screw drivers to try and pulling apart the motor but no luck. My question is, CAN SOMEONE PLEASE SHARE IF THERE IS ANOTHER WAY OF TAKING THE MOTOR APART? Pictures and videos would help if available.

Did you remove the circlip

I tried taking mine apart and the screws broke apart so i couldn’t

it finally came apart but damaged the outer ring near shaft as you can see in pic, also the black fan got loose, shold i crazy glue the fan back?

Cleaned out all the shavings but black ring fan got loose, can it be crazy glued back where it belongs? It clearly shows where it was glued at. Feeling very frustrated, i haven’t even turn motor on for the first time yet and this happens, brand new, got it two days ago

Do u have better pic of black fan thing? I assume the outer part can be left as it is…if it does not interfere. Otherwise probably try to pry it back…

Bad luck what else to say…

black ring is the fan, it got unglued, do you think it would be fine if i crazy glued it back?

the black holes you see on fan is where the outer casing gets screwed back in.

Hi T,

As far as I can see, that black fan part is meant to be loose when the outer drum is removed. Once you refit the drum, put those screws back in and refit the C clip, all will be well. Not sure what glue residue you are looking at but that’s what I’m seeing.


Thank you so much for the input, its gonna look like a frankenstein motor, hopefully it will still work, i’ll keep you posted, thanks again Andy.

can you see the residue now, where im pointing at?

Ah yes. Looks like a bearing to give the motor drum some extra support via the black fan part. I’d give it a light smear of contact adhesive at most. It’s only to stop the fan slipping on the bearing. If the fan is a sticky fit onto the remaining glue residue, it needs nothing.


Update, put it back together and it feels very smooth when rotating. hopefully when i hook it up there wont be any issues, i’ll keep you posted. buying vesc today and hand controller, any links you would like to share? plan on getting vesc from diy electric skateboards website.

Hey Andy, was at home depot today buying shrink wrap for my wire connections and found this on off switch for $3.00, can i install it on my board?

You could but it depends what you want to switch with it. I doubt it’s rated for switching your main power but might be ok for turning a VESC on and off.


Just Googled it and it’s only suitable for 100-125v AC. This means even if you found a use for it on your board, the light isn’t compatible.


ok, thanks. let me tell you what i have going, 42" cruiser deck, caliber trucks, orangatang 80mm wheels, motor mount from diy in blue, 2 Zippy flightmax 5000 mah 20C batteries, turnigy 6374 motor. i’m ordering the vesc and 36 teeth wheel pulley combo from diy tonight. my deck is in raw wood, i might wrap in carbon fiber. im starting everything from scratch, everything is new. question, what vesc are you using, trying to figure out if the one im buying is good.

do i need a bms, what on off switch should i buy?

Hi T,

I don’t use the VESC and you don’t need a BMS with those Li-Po’s.

Take a look at my build log to see what I did.

Looks like there are a few similarities with our projects.


for on off switch’es you should look at getting a VEDDER spark switch from chaka/diy/etc, they are designed for your purpose