Need help to repair Carbon V4 ( 2 drives ) and my dual escape

Hey guys,

So I started riding my builds again since we have amazing weather RN in Europe. And I have nothing but problems… dead battery, faulty motors… Etc etc… I think I have to keep riding my ebike… this cheap Chinese crap has been nothing but reliable AF !

So I got 2 faulty carvon V4 ( seriously I should’ve never bought those, they over heat in a matter of minutes and they are very unreliable , tho the V3 was amazing and never had problem, with the V4 is a complete fail and of course Carvon never answers any email and blatantly ingore all my requests @LEVer

  • the first one is obviously shorted I think IMG_20181123_141218

I was riding and one motor was heating waaaaaay more than the other, I think it just melted and shorted. The motor always had this flaw it had way more resistance than the other motor ( that still works)

  • the second one was faulty upon delivery but Carvon and @LEVer never took the responsibility of the problem not willing to find a solution. The problem is the right motor will move itself, and I think it created a short and destroyed my ESCAPe I was riding really slowly because I know the drive over heat within 500 m ( when it’s advertised as a speed demon I can’t go above 30 km/h without thermal throttling within 3-5 minutes even without the urethane sleeve ) And suddenly everything stopped. I don’t get how 50 $ meepo hub can be more reliable than a 250 $ direct drive motor. I have almost 1200€ of drive completely useless and not even fun to use since it overheat in a second …

Now after inspection the escape connected to the said motor is :100: dead. Not even a led showing up. No visual damage, shorts etc… Just dead…

IMG_20190228_101209 IMG_20190228_101206 IMG_20190228_101255 15513458150823280274523252194640 IMG_20190228_101008 IMG_20190228_101017 Any help is appreciated. I can mail the drives, PCB etc… just Europe only so it’s not too expensive . Please help a fellow rider that just want to ride again. It was my last working build, winter was harsh with me this season.


This makes me sick. Your not the only one in this boat brother.

Maybe @rey8801 would be willing to check it out if you paid for the repair. I know he’s in EU and a reliable person.


Hi man! Sad to see it. As you know your spud build is what brought me in Esk8 :wink: I think the escape @Martinsp or @Arek can fix it. If it just some components shouldn’t be a problem. For the Carvon if one motor is shorted or has a bad winding then either you change the Sk3 motor inside or you have to rewind the motor I guess.

I hope to see you in Paris this summer


@ElskerShadow If you do end up doing this, I’m sure a lot of people would appreciate you documenting this. I have a brand new V4 on the shelf, don’t want to touch it now that @Lever ghosted us.


I think that if you know what motors has been used wound’t be difficult to switch it.

Well if motor shorts and busts the ESC to the point where even no led is present then it’s very likely not economic to fix it as many IC’s are faulty.

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Yeh that’s why I pointed out you for this job. I know you will able to identify the problem.

Very often, drv and mcu change solves alot(most of the time its only one of em). Only time its not economical is if an entire piece of pcb has blown off. (Missing copper lead) could still be salvegable. But will take some work=money, if u cant do it yourself.

Regarding motors, perfect time to learn winding one! Pretty sure you can fix them/sell em for some money back (given the mechanical stuff is ok)

I think replacing the whole entire stator with an sk3 will not give you the proper kv. You’d need to rewind it.


You will need a 149kv and convert to wye for 85kv. The other problem is to separate the stator from the metal insert. It seems to be held on with a huge ass circlip or something which is Loctited as well. I couldn’t budge it with a screwdriver and hammer

What I normally do to remove the stator pipe from the stator is to heat it up with a heat gun the stator pipe, usually most of the epoxy/glue is at the bottom when the wires go out. Then you need something to lift the motor and be able with a pipe to hummer the internal stator pipe from the other side. With a bit of patient it will slowly go out.

Then rewinding the motor is ok, as you said, you can follow the youtube tutorial and it should work.

Yeah I wish @Martinsp could answer my PM but he doesn’t I have two antispark that are faulty from him and he is not really offering customer service RN apparently So he’s not more answering about repairing Vesc ( I have 2 blown focbox to send to him as well ) Maybe he is not on the forum as much as he used to be

About my motors all you are saying guys seem really overwhelming , but I will try and give it a shot. In the end it’s my only solution after all But if someone is willing to be paid and do it I would love that

PS : I def hope to catch you in Paris !

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that’s weird he usually replies within 3-4 days. Well you can ask @Arek to diagnose which can be the problem. For the carvon I might be able to fix them but I ma busy with work and by making my second DD. After that if you still didn’t solve I could have a look. For me first step is understand if the mechanical part of the motor works. then you know is within the stator the problem. In that case I guess carvon V4 use a sk3 149Kv in wye configuration. I can send you the video and drawing but it’s really feasible. You only need a soldering iron, shirking tubes and patience :grin: Once the rewinding is done then is only put the new motor on the carvon axle.


I thought the speed drives were wound to 115kv?

Yah, pretty sure the v4’s are in the 110kv area.

I am as well busy AF at work , currently creating my startup so it’s quite time consuming… If I can’t make it in the upcoming months I LL send them to you if you will. But I will try to do it for sure it seems like a great challenge I can take, and if the hardest part is patience I think I can do it.

I should rewind each motor then ? Since the KV won’t be the same. And about my second drive I have a rotor can problem so I need to find a solution do solve that as well. Before I used a press to fit back into place but it would come out again during the ride, until it went too far and killed my escape

Fantastic I love start up. In which field is it? If you can already talk about it.

For the first drive where the problem is one motor then I would actually check the KV of the other motor but I think it’s a Sk3 reterminated, either 149Kc to 85Kv or in case of speed driver probably 190Kv to 110Kv, from delta to wye configuration. If that is the case then you only need to change the faulty motor with a new 149-190Kv SK3 from Hobby King reterminated at the desire wye. You don’t need to change all the windings, just the motor phase wires configuration. That’s why is rather easy. Here the steps. Here how to disassemble Sk3 motor. I actually understand why they went for this motor. Great motor and the stator pipe allow you to use it for DD conversion. In my case I wanted a bigger motor but I have to make all the parts from scratch.

For the second drive I need to see it, because as far as I know Carvon use the axle nut with motor and wheels installed to keep everything tight together. So there are no actual screws on the inner motor CAN but it’s the pressure from the axle nut to keep everything in place. If that is true how can it get loose?

If you want my two cents, for the first DD i used the Mad hubs and I had them in 130Kv and 75KV configuration. The 130Kv are crazy fast but really inefficient since most of the time you are accellerating and braking and not cruising at high speed. So in ratio 1:1 higher Kv motor are really inefficient at the lower erpm and ask a lot of current to provide the same torque = decrease range (I was getting 10-12 km out of a 10s3p battery, while with meepo hubs almost 28Km).and a lot of heat (which is your problem). I then used the same motor at 75Kv (130Kv delta to 75Kv wye, so the motor is the same, just reterminated) and the effiency is incredible. around 12-13watt/km with a 12s3p battery, and around 30Km for sure, never discarge so much. They barely heat it up even if I push them. Compare the 130Kv crazy torque and the speed is still a lot. I topped 58kmh and I still had something left, but that is the instant speed without keeping the throttle with 97mm wheels. FOr my little spud not bad!

So maybe since you have heating problem better to replace both of the motor with 149KV HK reterminated to 85Kv, You will have more torque, more efficent at low erpm, so less heat and still high speed.


Dude, thank you for the info. Bookmarked this post. Very helpful. I have carvon v2’s. I believe they’re 149kv but not reterminated to wye. Never tried them, but wonder if I should just do the conversion now and be done with it.

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I think dual 149Kv 1:1 ration is just too high erpm, you will never reach plus 70kmh I guess, then you are loosing a lot of torque. To me 85Kv is still the limit for 1:1 drive. Better to pair it with 85-90mm wheels to gain torque. The speed would always be enough. For my second direct drive I am using a 85Kv motor and planning to pair it with 90mm wheels, 85mm would be better but I prefer a bit more clearance for the motor CAN. It is just a bit bigger than my first one :grin: Believe me that the Mad Fury is crazy strong already. The stator is the same of 6355 motors.

IMG_20190207_001208 IMG_20190213_014612


Hey @ElskerShadow, if you don’t find a better solution I can replace the DRV or MCU of your ESCape. I’m not electrical engineer just a hobbiest, with that I mean I can replace components but I can’t do diagnostics to find the problem, the good news is I have a couple working ESCape and I can visual compare it, check voltages etc… Which helps a lot :slight_smile:
Same for the focbox. Btw I’m in the Netherlands.