I am a fairly new rider and so far I have used a 5S 8A Lipo.
Because of space saving reasons I want to make my own battery pack using Samsung INR18650-30Q batteries.
These if I am correct: https://www.nkon.nl/samsung-inr-18650-30q-3000mah.html
Is it as simple as buying 15 of them and then connect them in a 5x3 setup to achieve 5S 9A?
Also, I’d like to know more about battery management systems that allow me to simply charge by plugging a cable in, instead of removing my battery cover and charge the lipo with the power and balance leads with a ISDT charger.
Please advise me.
Why would you use 5s?
Don’t go lions if you go this low pack
5s is low voltage for a proper eskate. Also weired battery layout with 5s. If you go with a flat config…
I use 5S because that is how I calculated my current setup.
The esc I’m currently using in combination with my motor Kv and wheel diameter gives me 24km/h with 5S.
I prefer distance over speed, but 20km/h is minimum.
Please advice what you would go for
I am planning on doing 2 or maybe 3 layers on batteries. which would still be flatter than my 5S 8A Lipo
Why would you even go 5s?
You really get more range?
it´s as simple but also a bit more complicated.
you should know what you doing.
read here first how to build a proper battery pack.
3p 3000mah is not 9A but 9Ah, it´s a bit a difference
After some research I found that most people use 10S.
So I am thinking to make a 10S2P battery.
If I do that I should probably update my esc too, I currently use a RC Car esc.
I should probably get a lower Kv motor and limit the top speed in the esc to extend my range right?
Edit: I am planning to 3D print an enclosure for the batteries. My plan now is to implement springloaded tabs to easily insert and remove the batteries. Is that recommended or should I just spotweld the batteries onto strips?
Those won’t work. You can use nese if you really want to be able to switch out the batteries
Like @Superflim said, the spring solution will not work out as they not made for
the curret you will draw from the batteries.
A solder or spotweld solution are the NESE modules
if you have the can than also go as min 3p with your pack.
the more P groups the more amps you get out off your pack, the less voltage sag you will
have, the longer your cells will stay alive and the steeper hills you can climp.
If you make it for the first time it can be a bit confusing to find the right components fitting to each other. If you not sure, just post the parts you plan to order and we can have a look and tell you if it´s gonna work out well.
Thank you for your input, I will look into it. My plan is to use it for commuting to work through the almost flat city.
I will post what I currently have and plan on buying soon, and hope to re-use some parts.