Do you also sell the crossbar?
yes, of cause I sell the cross bar. but the design already changed.
@dickyho do you happen to have these mounts but in black? Cheers
Hi. Sorry, no. only have blue now.
Gotcha thanks for the speedy reply.
Hey dickyho ! Nice work. Could you tell me about the motor mount for that Black Truck, are you making a new motor mount or just a new piece to assembly ? Do you have the link in order to buy for that type of Truck ? There is some photos about the truck: https://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-1251122085-mbs-truck-matrix-pmountainboard-_JM
Hi. I still don’t have mount for the MBS truck yet, about to design one. I am still think make a new design for it, or just make new inner fixer adapter for the mount I have now.
Hey @dickyho, that seems like wasted motor/battery energy from the drag and extra/unecessary parts with the idler bearings on there… Not trying to be rude or down your product but why don’t you just use the correct size belt especially because you can tension it however snugly you wish on the mount? Either that or have the belts ride on the outside of a toothed idler pulley or two instead of being pinched down onto the motor pulley by bearings (non spring loaded idler bearings to boot) as this would reduce the friction on the belts/motors and even increase speed/torque. Idk, just a thought. Additionally, I would maybe think about implementing some kind of connector bar to go between and attach both motor mounts together to make them more solid… I don’t like to use the flanges as they make it more difficult to get my belts on and off without taking my motor’s mounting screws loose from the mounts which I like to use loc tite on because I only use two screws not all four. I am 230lbs and I ride with packs and gear a lot (I have 6" wheels also and I cannot get my motor and wheel pulleys as close together as yours are or I cannot reach one of my motor to mount screws without taking the wheel off, which kind of defeats the purpose) so I have had issues with the mounts flexing a little under torque This flex puts the pulley at a slight angle and the belts can sometimes work their way part or all the way off the pulley. Anyway, like I said, not trying to be a dick just pointing out some possible downsides to this design & suggesting some proactive options for possible solutions. Getcha Roll On!
I was thought the same thing as you do before, that idlers are unnecessary.
then I realized it do can protect the belt.especially from a hard brake.
you mean cross bars like these?
Yes sir they are. I actually saw those shortly after I posted but it was too late to take it back then lol. I still feel the same about the idlers though. and belts by far the cheapest thing I buy, I’d rather have less tax on my motors & batteries and risk a belt now and then. I always have two spares with me but I’ve only needed one once. I have my brakes dialed in! They are like anti-lock, I can be going full speed (25-30mph) and nail the brakes and it just sounds like something powering down and I come to a very smooth complete stop within about 7-8 feet. A lil more going down hill but not much. No skidding, no launching off board, and no skipping teeth. Did you see my PM to you yet about the Airless AT Kit?
yes, saw you PM, already replied!
This might come across as rude, but, no one is being forced to buy or install the idler pulleys with their motor mounts. Every person can build their board however they want, that’s what makes them great. If you don’t want idlers on your board, don’t put idlers in your board. Simple as that. If you have a setup with strong brakes and good acceleration that doesn’t skip teeth, great. Personally I don’t, so I run the idlers, even if it sacrifices a couple hundred feet of range.
I don’t consider your comment rude @Jellybean I just don’t think your seeing the entire picture. Also, I don’t know why you got the impression I was trying to tell you or anyone else what to do with their own builds. I was not and never would do that. I was simply expressing my opinions to Dickyho. Secondly, it’s not “a couple feet of range” that concerns me, iIf that was my entire concern I’d be a real douchebag lol. What concerns me is the constant extra work my motor would be subject to with the extra drag from the idlers. This extra work creates heat which diminishes performance and eventually breaks down components. This extra work also creates more constant tax on my battery which also causes more heat (a battery’s worst enemy) which, in turn, breaks down the battery cells faster. So my concern is not for a few dollar belt or a couple hundred feet of range. My concern is for the vital and most expensive parts of my setup, the motors and the battery. But these opinions are my own and I’m not asking anyone else to agree with me or to change their opinions or actions because oi anything I say. Actually, please don’t take my (or anyone else’s for that matter) opinions for anything other than food for thought. Everyone should always do their own research and develop their own opinions. I would suggest however, that “needing” to use the idlers is just the symptom of other underlying problems and that when you finally get your setup correct (the right size pulleys & belts, the best center to center distance for your pulleys, motor mounts mounted solidly, VESC setup properly for your build, etc…) that you will not have the need for idlers anymore. Also (like I previously stated to Dickyho), if you do need them, why not use toothed idler pulley(s) the belts ride the outside of which actually reduce wear and can increase speed and/or torque? But again, these opinions are my own and I’m certainly not trying to tell you or anyone else that they should agree with me, or what they should or shouldn’t do with their own builds. Have a good day man and Getcha Roll On!
From what I have found in my small amount of experience in esk8 is frictional heat generated is very little compared to the variations you can get in riding style. Also, lithium batteries do have a optimal temperature that they perform best at, which I believe is around 80F, so some warming isn’t terrible. I have never found my LiPo batteries to get overly warm from my skateboard the way they can in my RC cars. Kind of a “how you drive, not what you drive” scenario.
Maybe its my background in robotics, but to me running belts means running tensioners close to the sources of high torque to keep teeth from skipping. Where as idlers in chain systems are more for reducing slack. We all could run chains and rarely need idlers but have a noisy drivetrain that also requires more maintenance. That’s a choice made when building, but chain drivetrains are harder to find in our application.
Perhaps you could explain these toothed idler pulleys, I am having a hard time picturing it?
@SlimSh8y Lol toothed idler pulley, what are you even rambling about?
The whole point of the idler is to engage more teeth on the motor pulley. That’s it. A toothed idler would be doing the opposite.
Idlers originally came about because there was only a limited gear ratio you could(due to small wheel size usually). People wanted to gear up for higher speed. This would leave you with a small motor pulley which most people found skips. Hence the idlers to engage more teeth…
This makes for an even lesser teeth in contact with the belt. You’ll get a hell of alot of belt skipping with this design.
What? Toothed idler pulley? Why?
lol, exactly this. just use an idler to prevent belt skip if you have it