New LiPo cells, are they any good?

Here is a link to a video that just appeared on my youtube homepage that I thought was relevant to you guys. It is an interesting video but I was wondering the general opinion on the cells he is using. Are they worth buying or are they not going to last more than a few months? Here is the link to the cells:


These are cheaper :slight_smile:

Lower capacity and C-rating too…

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Yeah I didn’t saw they were 10$ so it’s a good deal I guess :slight_smile:

Yeah so they’re 4 for 30$ and their capacity is 8Ah I just don’t know how well they would work for this type of application

The general idea is, the more it costs, the better it will work. So, going with that as a guideline, it’s more likely than not that they will be shitty.

I bought 36 of them. …

they seem more like 5ah under load. I built a 12s2p pack with these and… so far I’m not impressed


You made an eskate with a 12s2p of these cells? I was planning a 12s1p with these cells dual vesc and dual 6374 190kv torque boards motor. Haters be calm if the batts suck we buy new ones and move forward. I will post my results for these cells when available. I discharged tested them at 1A and all but one were over 8000mAh and i understand higher drain raits may effect capacity.


Any updates on the cells? Are they worth buying?

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I retired the pack, it’s ok for short duration, it measured out at 14ah but in practice I only was able to pull maybe 10ah… cells are a bit old, and have somewhat high resistance imo, and they are also heavy. My new pack is half the weight and triple the capacity

I built another pack with the Sanyo ncr18650ga cells I built a 12s9p pack.

You might not need a pack that big, but I wanted minimum 20 mile range


Oh so these SPIM08HP cells are garbage then?

Btw did you say 12s18p pack? :astonished:

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they’re not real bad… but they’re heavy for the amount of power you get from them.

and oops, i meant 12S9P… BUT it’s still a giant pack. over 30ah

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my 12s SPIM08HP pack is ok that is until i fell going 28 with no helmet. WEAR a helmet let me tell you not worth that. the battery is really hard to construct the battery safely. better options with 18650s but i just wanted a challenge already have a diy 18650 build and its a lot more reliable and easier to gauge the range.

I have 42 of these dudes chilling under my stairs. Been there for 2-3 months, starting to demand pack building action or they will riot.

You got any pics of the pack you made? Did you cram them all together bareback or use protection (fish-paper or barrier protection)?

How did you connect tabs? Hardware, or spot welds ? (…hopefully not solder)


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I bought 42 of the spim08hp and am now in the process of making 4 6s packs. Need to cut the bus bars im going to use from a sheet of aluminum. But first need to charge all of them and measure the internal resistance to match them up with similar for the packs.IMG_20190522_211350 .

May have bitten off more than i can chew with making the packs myself but for 330$cad cant beat that

The eyelets that jehu uses is his video are not suitable for high current applications. You need either copper or aluminum bus bars if you want high power without risking heat

Hey guys.

6101 aluminum battery bars. #10 screws. 6g battery cables. Ebike.

Riding: they are good, but also maybe not so good. Usable Wh about 80%.

Problems: most cells that are 3.7v nominal will go from 4.2 to 3.7; these ones will go down to about 3.2v with some room to spare for riding, as the sag at approx 2-2.5c is about .3v when you go that low (sag at full charge is less than .2v at 10c) So when you are talking controllers and chargers, you must be sure they will be ok with going down that far. Depending, the cost of this pack is ~$300/kwh.

Benefits: no fires. I have done everything to them. Dead cells will puff up and possibly open from puffing (I have seen online, mine just puff up) and turn into short circuits effectively reducing the series rating/overall voltage. I took my pack down too low one day as I had to get home and scrapped 2s. They are each at 0v like a piece of wire. $30 worth.

Looking back, I could have gone with HK multistars on sale or similar manufactured bricks with power leads and balance connectors preinstalled, for maybe $750 worth with a minimum of labor (woulda been wiring only and not fabbing bus bars) I could have fit maybe double the capacity in the same space. But also I would have to buy a lot more to get the amps safely. They are rated 10c but real world use by many ebikers has shown a safe discharge of 4c max, However you never know if those will catch fire… or maybe you do, I don’t. I just know these spim08hp are safe for the worst owners. Definitely not down to 2.5v that last .4 is just for lights.


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One pic per post for new users, duurrrrrrrrrrrrimage

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used hardware and has worked good but i was working on a way to spotweld but the anode and cathode are composed of different metals so i don’t know if it would work or not