Really? (Ideal) ORing diodes are pretty standard practice in applications with multiple power supplies. I’d be really surprised if people here aren’t already doing this. I’m not an EE major, I just have lots of time and spend it all reading application notes haha.
Also, I realized my previous post was rather ambiguous so I updated it with a diagram and better description.
Won’t I need to do this to the negative so it does not bypass the anti spark?
Forgive my ignorance, but can someone tell me about the built in anti spark. If you leave the switch off, can you just connect your Vedder switch in place of the Flipsky built in AS. Or can you leave it on, and still connect the vedder switch with your 60amp fuse to this ESC?
You can leave it on and use the vedder switch and fuse to turn on and off.
It is basically having 2 antisparks in series. Both have to be on for the ESC to turn on
Thanks for the response
So of the three wires comming from the ppm cable, is the servo wire comming from the MCU or the 5V rail more likely to be affected by a random transient? There was a warning posted about using Y-splitter for the ppm and resulting in destruction of the MCU but I could not figue out which line to put the diode on on my version.
Yes, each ESC needs a diode pointing towards it on the negative line.
It will look something like this ESC#1 GND ------------|<|---------Splitter ESC#2 GND ------------|<|---------Splitter Splitter-------------------------------Receiver GND.
You may get a bit of distortion on your PPM signal, so be sure to tune their input configurations accordingly.
I would think the PPM signal is more susceptible to transients, but there is a resistor in series with the signal and the GPIO on the STM32F405RG, which (in combination with the GPIO’s clamping diodes) should protect it from EMI or transients generated by the receiver. Or if you accidentally configure it as an output, the resistor should limit the current flowing in and out of the GPIO. Is it the MCU that explodes or the DRV8302 that explodes? Because only the signal wire is connected to the MCU, +5V comes off the DRV8302, and GND is connected to Digital GND of the ESC. I can see why the DRV8302 might explode if the 5V lines are connected together WITHOUT ORing diodes, because if one of them goes into fault, it’ll start sinking current from the other DRV8302’s buck converter and cause both of them to fail.
I’m pretty sure you need to put the diode here.
Between the output capacitor and the feedback resistors, the cathode of the diode goes to +5V.
However, if your VESC variant does not have those resistors in place, then it is the signal wires that causes the MCU to blow up.
Now that think more about it, even with the diodes in place, things might still go wrong and the STM32F405RG might blow up through the signal wires.
I would recommend turning both ESCs on before plugging in any shared wires.
I would feel really bad if the $10 MCU blew up on one of your ESCs.
I understand the CAN-Bus issue requires the same process … power up both, then plug in the CAN cable.
The elephant in the room is that you shouldn’t be able to ‘fry’ a VESC (or any other motor controller) by doing what they are designed to do … which is connecting 2 or more of them among other things.
As far as I understand, even if you follow this process Maytech recommend a ‘CAN filter’ component between the VESCs.
… Cheers
Get this, today I cut the negative on the same leg where I cut the positive (on the signal wire is connected) and turning on one vesc still turns on the other.
Im going to contact flipsky about this because something is going on and I’m not sure what it is.
I tried Googling this but got no results. Can you tell me what is meant by a ‘CAN filter’ component between both VESC’s? All I have seen related to canbus filter component is just the canbus cable…
The issue where you can blow a VESC via CAN has been sorted with the VESC6 from what I have heard.
I kind of finished my 10S6P 25R pack last night and took the trampa out for a spin this afternoon. Here is part of the logs - https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_uiRjMzi1DD7xjpv68vz7NCtRfO9R2G3
60/-60 Motor and 40/-10 Battery amps, temps below 30C, not issues so far. I’m going to try and go for a ride tomorrow after work on some trails
@uigiroux … we bought this from Maytech … even with VESC6 they recommend it with ‘high voltage’ system … we are 48v. Cheers
Got my 6.6 today. They scrapped the on/off switch for this batch hence the rubber plug. Check out the solder blob on the middle cap. And theres one directly on the DRV too arghhh.
Testing faired better. This ESC seems pretty tough. I was probably a bit hasty upping current limits in foc and had sensorless loss of rotor position at 120A phase a few times. After more tuning I’ve done a few dozen full throttle launches at 4kw. This is with 12s 100A battery and 150A phase.
I see… So what does it actually do… Lol, I now want to use them, but I’d like to know what they actually do. 
Also what does CANL and CANH stand for?
CANH / CANL is the signal carriage to differentiate 1 and 0 from what I can understand. They don’t have the ground wire attached. I don’t know why, but I do recall reading somewhere on the forums this is correct in some (all?) circumstances.
According to Maytech, it protects your CAN-Bus from getting fried … which is supposed not to be an issue any more, but still is according to them with higher voltages.
That’s all I know … maybe more than I know 
Cheers
Sir, there’re several big components that cannot be mounted in SMT process must be soldered by hands. After seeing your feedback here. We’re planning to cut in fixture to protect other components during hand-soldering. Thanks for your post, and we already posted the failuire photos in production line for highlights and warnings.
This is not epidemic defect, don’t worry. We’ll keep improving! Thanks again!!!
Hey guys, I just odered this on ebay (link) What else do I have prepare? Does it come with connectors or I will have to solder them on my own? If so, where to find connectors? And what should I get for soldering tools?
You will need XT60/XT90 and bullet connecters, and a soldering iron + helping hands.
The parts can be found on hobbyking and the tools can be found locally or at amazon.
thanks for helping. I have a little bit soldering skills since I remember playing with my dad’s tool when I was younger 
I bought from DIYeboard, and according to their site the battery will have XT60 connector, and the motor is 4mm bullet connector. Do you know what store has these items?
