Nickel Strip 'belt' connection q's

Yo guys,

I have some pure nickel belt. I’d like to get all of the wiring on the top of my pack to save width. What do you think of using nickel belt in this fashion?

Fish paper and kapton tape will be used, just use the pictures to get an idea of the connection.

Also thinking I can cut the strip between the series connection and have the belt connect the packs from the top, and if there is any flex at all it would not affect the welds at all. Less welds will equal less connection points for failure.IMG-0101

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great idea. this is essentially how i do mine as well. P groups, joined in series with copper.

make sure you insulate the caps, fishpaper at a minimum positive ends.

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This is the way I will make my next battery. However, the way you have installed the belt is not correct. The slots should be placed on top of the cells since their function is to “direct” the spot welding current and improve the welds.

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I have trouble keeping the slots centered over the center of each cell over a set of 8 cells since I’m not using a spacer. I also like how the strip lays between the cells the way I have it which may minimize contact.

I’m not sure how important that slot is.

Make sure to use something more conductive than that for the series connections. I used 2 pieces of 14awg wire. 1 12awg will work too

i dont disagree with your statement, but if one was using plain nickel strip there wouldnt be any slot any ways… so any offset he has currently would replicate that… however using the properly sized and spaced nickel belt would align things even better…

if i didnt have a spool of nickel now Id use let like this too!

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this too…

@ryan380golf didnt some of the belt I sent you gap cells only? i think so if i recall right :wink:

I’ll inspect the strips a little closer. I think they are the same spacing. I’m not too worried about that slot, I just don’t see how much of a difference that would make. I think I will connect the packs with some 10g I have. I was just going to have the nickel connect them across the tops of the packs.

Did you punch those slots, and how?

No, I got the strip from here https://eu.nkon.nl/accessories/battery-solder-strip/1-meter-nikkel-batterijsoldeerstrip-25-5mm-0-15mm.html

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Hey guys,

Looks like these recycled cells won’t work for me. (specs below) No biggie. They were cheap and I’m learning. Can you confirm my math? At a 5400 mah max discharge this gives me 5.4 amps per cell discharge which is way too low. Let’s say I need 60a discharge I’d need a 12p pack. 12 x 5.4 amps to get to above 60 amps? Samsung 30q is the way to go? What discharge rate am I looking for ideally?

The good thing is my Unity is on order so this slows down my build and allows me to think and find my mistakes.

Brand: Panasonic
Model: NCR18650
Capacity: 2900mAh Rated
Voltage: 3.60V Nominal
Charging: 4.20V Maximum

1925mA Standard — mA Maximum| |Discharging:|2.50V Cutoff 580mA Standard 5400mA Maximum| |Description:|Gray Cell Wrapper White Insulator Ring 18650 Form Factor|

Samsung 30Q cells can discharge 20A/cell and are the best value for money for our application. So to get 60A with 30Qs you would need 3p. I am currently planing a build for a short board (Tayto, 2x 6355 Maytech, Caliber II 50, Unity) that will use a 12S3P 30Q battery.

You can use this calculator for all you calculating needs

My build is an Evolve pack 10s4p so I’ll start shopping the Samsung 30q.

Unity / with stock dual evolve motors.

Yeah, I have to make one of those for a friend in a couple of months.

Would you buy used Samsung 30q from BatteryHookup? I heard they get them from time to time.

I would never buy used batteries for an eskate. They cost 3.5€/cell and that is in Europe including VAT. I could try and save a few bucks and risk having a battery fail or not perform. Best case scenario, I get to rebuild the battery, something I hate doing.

These batts I have only have a 5.4 amp max discharge correct? I need to get to about 20 amp discharge…

Yes. 10char

In the US for 30q cells, ru.nkon.nl is cheapest and reliable. Takes a while though.

30q is the safe bet for almost all use cases. You can count on 15a as per the mfg. Most testing shows the cells will handle 20a but that’s in excess of specs so could in theory change batch to batch.

As for what discharge you need, it depends on what you’re pushing around (weight), gearing, and ride style.

Most dual motor urethane setups run nicely with 10s4p or 12s4p 30q.