Thats sad to hear lol. Especially after what all ive bought. My terrain is mostly crappy pavement and light grass in Texas so i might be okay for awhile with those trucks. I just bought the 6374 sk3 149kv motor, now i have to budget whats next… focbox and a decent battery prob. But that alone is like what i paid for everything else lol. I really do like the 3 speed of the remote though, being able to ride casually or aggresive. I know their are 2 speed remotes but im also nervous of Canbus after peoples reports of frying…so i was thinking of just going the mini route and using 2 recievers and sacrifice the speed “levels”… apologies for over commenting just not to many people can compare this product to other things im interested in. And i couldnt justify getting top end stuff before but now im hooked lol
when you receive the board , when its was all stock part, does the spec of the seller were right ?like 20 km range and 40km/h speed??
Thanks 
!
what speed and range did you get from dthis board ?
great review, bud. 5/5
The original speed controller broke down after a few 100 Meters, so I never got to test the range with original specs. The battery lasted maybe 16 km after the initial vesc and motor upgrades, mainly due to the voltage sag.
There are far better choices available now, including completes.
So hello I am new here! I live in BC Canada. I am a kiteboarder and RC Guy. Well I used to be it seems anyways…
I signed up just to post on this old thread, as this thread is all that really shows up on a search to reveiw these kits or boards. After much consideration (rye and ginger and one night on this forum) I bought the L faster kit on amazon.ca. (look it up if you care.) Why did I buy it? Because kite sessions are few these days with work and all. Also because I live in Canada and getting parts here is crazy expensive. Dropping 3 grand on a skateboard seemed a bit much (and cuts into my alcohol fund).
Now I do ok with work. I could afford a trampa or even pay a machinist to make parts for me. I could even purchase a 3d printer and make parts for myself! But explaining why I spent that much or why this 3D printer was in the living room making a stink for months to my wife would be extremely painful. More painful than this guys gripe with his board TBH. Super Painful… So I rolled the dice on a Chinese kit. …After all most everything is made in china anyways… right? You just need to be handy and realize that you are the customer service and RandD. Not much support buds! I expect nothing but a deal and a platform to build off of when I buy RC. I guess my background in fabricating and the RC hobby helped. But in all honesty I did not really need to fall back on it much…(but I guess there was that getting this thing together part come to think of it)…
More to the point of my post. I decided to post here to let others know that the Lfaster kit (referred to in this thread but not actually the OP’s product in question ) is actually working out great! It seems to have enough power to move my fat 200pound ass around at 42k on pavement (confirmed by tracking App). It even does trails and offroading very well too. I will add not perfectly. But that said I remember having to jump a bit on my mbs alex brown pro6 board with my kite to get moving in a bog. If I didn’t I would get supermaned as my board stayed put… But I could go on for hours about how and why. So to the meat …and no potatoes… Its Keto mania after all these days!
The $600 Cnd L faster kit comes as advertised not perfect.(Coughs) like most build threads on here…
So what I did to fix that…
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Take it all apart and loctite, grease and tighten everything!
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Add O rings to the spring seats and yellow mbs eggshocks to the trucks. (Orange is too stiff IMHO I like to carve)
3.Beef up all the hardware with bigger and better marine grade stuff where I could.
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Add a heat sink to the PCB board. Seems to help
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Glue the riser pad to the trucks with super 77. stops it from relying on just compression to hold it there. Less potential unwanted movement.
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remove them dumbass motor covers and add a custom made brace that all these builds seem to have…
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Drilled holes in deck to allow for longer dog point grubscrews from better truck spring adjustment.
Some of these mods I had to do on my MBS boards in the past already. Like that slop found in the kingpin as described by the OP… yep MBS Too…
Now I built my own batteries from some recycled bus lipos from ebay. At first I thought it was a mistake (drunk Ebaying). So I bought some HRB 5000mah to try out (more drunk ebaying). They seem to heat up more than my homemade job 8000mah bus batteries. So them bus batteries are better. Even though they are huge…
I stuck the works on my MBS jeep renegade board from 2005? (Bought so many dead brain cells ago)… I put a 120 Amp fuse inline to the electronics. The electronics are in a water sealed case. And batteries ride inbetween my feet in a bag. Standard esk8 stuff.
The “all in one” electronics inclued in my kit… (reciever and 2 speed controllers in one) is something my RC hobby experience told me to stay clear from. But the price was right. So I went with it. I am happy to report the unit has functioned as it should. I believe the specs of this L faster speed controller are better than stated in the OP’s reveiw. Closer to the advertised specs he stated. I have had no issues with the remote or connection to the board. But I mostly ride on closed golfcoarses and trails (no real interference out there)
Now all said and done I like to think I am into this for $1300 CND. (Why did I do that…I bought my first steet bike for that!) I waited a month for parts in the mail. It took 2 weekends to put the thing together. So for that cake and time I got a 42kph board with 21000mah of 10s batteries and a dual bank AC/DC hobby charger. Not bad. Really. Best part is I am out riding and smiling… and still married!
I just want to add in closing that the original reveiw was a big help in working out the gremlins of these chinese kits. And the forum was also a big help in this endeavor.
Thanks to all for the help and sorry about them potatoes!
Enjoy the board. After all the mods, it was OKish. Still, nothing compared to my Trampa mainly due to deck stiffness, overal lack of stability and the awful motor controller (these have been abandoned by most if not all Chinese boards by now).
One tip, don’t ride in the rain or lube the hell out of those bearings, otherwise they will cease up in no time and it’s no fun replacing them.
Hi all. Flipsky now also have an AT truck kit with 11in AT trucks, 8in wheels. Comes with 6354 motors. I suppose these fall in the same category as the others in this thread? Anyone have experience with these?
Yes , It Is the same, but the motor mount has been improved.
Glad I found this thread! I’m about to build my 1st board and settled on the L Faster trucks and motors just to get things moving without breaking the bank. I’ve gone for the Flipsky dual vesc 4.2 and vx2 controller instead of the bundled thing. Hopefully I’ll be up and rolling with just motors to upgrade in the future. I have a question to ask: What battery solution to go with for this setup? Ah capacity, constant drainage capacity etc? LiPo 10s or Li-ion 10s? Prefer the Li-ion option but haven’t really the time to be building the battery. Any advice appreciated on this.
Motor specs as stated on Amazon: Motor Specification Model: N63 Voltage: 36 Volt Output: 2800 Watt Rotate: 190 KV Max current: 120A Max speed: 40 Km/h
Additionally it gives specs for the bundled controller (I’ll be using Flipsky 4.2): If you want our controller board & remote together, please buy the option with controller board: Controller spec: Voltage: 10S (36V) Rated current: 30A Maximum current: 100A Maximum speed: 8000 RPM Hall sensor and hall sensorless are all ok.
Anyone know what plug I need to extend the hall sensor wires from the L-faster motors to the Flipsky fesc 4.2?
I understand the wires, loosing the temperature wire and colours but it’s the plug that’s confusing me. The motor plug looks same as the Flipsky terminal but just 5 pin. Are they JST 2.0?
I have the extension wires that came with the fesc 4.2 but the female don’t fit the L-faster motor plug. I could solder the wires if I can get the right female at 5pin with wires? Any helpful advise welcome. The pic is the motor wire.
Thanks.
Yes, it’s called a 6 pin jst 2.0. If you want to extend it, do note that one of the wire is a temperature wire. So you can ignore that and just make them only 5 wires on 6 pins.
Sure Leon, thanks. But where to get the 6pin or 5pin female JST PH plug from? They all look to be PSB dock fittings rather than inline? Thanks
Best I can find is these but they’re £10! Then I’ve gotta solder each half together. Seems an expensive pain in the butt just to make a pluggable connection. 
You said earlier that you have the extension wire yourself. You can simply solder the motor wires to the 6 pin if you have this (ignore the white wire on the 6 pin connector) and solder the white wire from the motor to the one color wire of the 6 pin after soldering the rest to their color coordination.
Just remember that red is 5v line and black is GND. Rest goes to h1-3. T is ignored.
I feel somewhat guilty, that I always advise, not buying prebuilt. But that hurts the industry. Other than the boutique brands, they are all just shy of unusable.
I used GA cells that are also, 10a but my STREET riding, with mellow speeds, smooth takeoffs is all I need so far. I can do thirty, theoretically. I have good rangeish. When I replace, I will go higher on amps, but so far, it hasnt seemed to degrade much.
Upgrading, is never the cheap way. And when you are done, you wish you had gone full diy.
And best of all, going full diy, you have REAL specs.