I did, there appears to be a small indentation on the red wire. I noticed it when it arrived in the mail, so I re-did the heat shrink to prevent any further damage. The plastic wire is not punctured, but like i said there is a mark. Could this cause failure?
What exactly were you doing at the time of shut-down of the vesc? Have you tried mesuring he voltage, is that still coming trough? Have you checked all components? Smd-connections? Does something smell burned? Have you tried it again after an hour or so to make sure it wasn’t just over-heating? What battery are you using?
Sorry for all the questions, just trying to pinpoint you in the right directions and getting some info gathered for other members that would chime in.
The red wire should be good then if you checked and upgraded the protection.
I was riding on flat ground for about 5 minuets before it cut out for a second, then came back for a second, then went out completely.
I have checked all connections and tested my XT-60 wires, they all work fine. The master VESC is not powering on.
I have not tried to measure the voltage. I don’t have the equipment to do so.
I don’t believe it was an over-heating issue, I came home about 30 min later, unplugged everything removed the vesc and tested it at my PC. No response.
Do you have a multimeter with you? If so can you check if you have continuity between the 5v and the gnd (or C25 capacitor)
Edit: If the power led doesn’t light up, It may be a failure of the can tranceiver (U401)
I don’t have a multimeter, but I can pick one up today. Do you have any resource to show me how to test these things?
1- You need to put the Multi-meter in diode Check mode. (should be a symbole similar to this one)
2- Check if you get a beeping song when touching de lead together. (or if you don’t hear any sound check if the multi-meter show 0000 or something similar)
3- Use the c25 capacitor to see if the 5v is short to the ground (it is the easiest part to access for checking the 5v to the gnd)
4- If you the doesn’t get the same result as touching the lead together, GOOD New the 5v is ok, but the problem is somewhere else. But if you get a beeping sound or the result is the same as touching the lead together, then you have a short over the 5v, and from my experience, it is 90% chance of a internal short over the can tranceiver (u401).
Wow thanks. I’ll go grab a multi-meter and check this.
Do I have any options to fix this? Or will I need to replace the VESC regardless?
I’m not very good a soldering and I don’t want to void my warranty.
Well, do you have the enertion warranty, if so I think you might need to wait for their respond, and you might need to send it, to their USA manufacturer
The vesc turned on again. I’m able to access the settings in the BLDC tool. Can someone please take a look at my motor settings and make sure I’m not pushing the VESC too hard or something?
Dual Enertion R-Spec motors Space cell pro-4 Enertion receiver and remote
Maybe try to set max input higher than 42v… I got a similar problem here.
Put the max voltage at around 57V if you are using a space cell pro, also I may suggest to drop the MAX ERPM to 70 000 to prevent damage on the drv.
If you’re running dual motors, your current limits are too high. Keep in mind that values should be halved since you’re running dual setup. I’d make motor max 40-50 per vesc and adjust as needed. motor regen should be at 40ish or you will be braking pretty hard. Battery max is a bit low and should be higher at about 30amps per VESC. Your SCP4 supports 80A continuous, but you want to try to be below that. Battery regen is too high and it should be -8A per VESC for safe charging.
Wow thanks guys. Glad I asked.
See below for new config. Any last things before I stress test it?
Looks good, though your low voltage cut off end is a bit low. You can keep it at that for more range, but make sure you get to a charger asap when you feel it kicking in.
This gives you an idea of how a voltage meter reads % to voltage.
Maybe you should follow @onloop advise, for is setup.
My advice is similar to his, though he was speaking about the SCP3 not 4
Got it Jinra,
Looks like 36 at 10s would be safer. I’ll update that.
I do 33v cut off start and 32v cut off end personally. You’re voltage will sag while riding so if you start the cut off too high you might trip it when riding with high current draw like up hills.
I did not say that your advice where not good, but, there is not so much difference between the SCP3 and SPC4, because by using the same 10S bms, they are in fact limited to the same continuous current. The major difference between the two are in term of the capacity and range they provide.
Also, you may want to use a lower Batt Min, at around -15A so it will provide a better braking solution.
Actually the SCP4 outputs 80A continuous vs 60A on the SCP3 due to the extra parallel cell. This also affects charging current so -8A battery min (dual vesc) is the safe spot for these cells. There is more capacity on the SCP4, but charging/discharging is also affected.
I have -8A on my dual VESCs with 45A motor regen and have no problem braking hard.