Noob question thread! 😀 ask your questions here!

Thanks @briman05 . I realise the ESC is not great and my plan is to upgrade the ESC eventually but I assume my logic is correct that the 190KV motor with 10S will squeeze more speed out of the current setup while staying under the 6000RPM limit?

And does anyone have any recommendations for a lower end (read price) ESC that is better than my current ESC (


The torque board vesc would probably by the cheapest.

If the esk8 calculator says that setup will be under the 6000 erpm limit you should be fine.

Remember, you’ll need to remove some solder from your esc to change it from 6s to 10s. Details are in the eBay postings.

:+1: @MonkeyM thanks mate

So I’m a newbie to skateboards and esk8s. I know chinese stuff is chinese and you get what you pay for generally speaking… But I can’t find anything in my price range, which isn’t a whole lot tbh so I’m not surprised. I have found what I think to could be an extreme budget build. I’m not looking for speed, I’m not much of a speed demon just need something for a decent ride of about 15km in distance. Any feedback will be helpful. Below are the links to the build I am considering buying just not sure on what will work. I am about 65-70kgs and there are some hills in my area but I can avoid them

I can’t post more than 2 links here so I’ve made a googledoc with the links to the parts

For an extreme budget build get the eBay ESC Single, a sensorless 200+kv 6364 motor, run a 6s battery pack with x2 3s 5000mah Lipos (at least 30c), XT90s loop key, caliber 2 trucks, flywheel clones and a budget/used deck. I’ve build this deck 3 or 4 times and its usually under 400 bucks US.


hello Skaters, i want to know what is the best material for soldering my batteries and cables. :slight_smile:

Awesome. I’m trying to get a few buddy’s into esk8. Was wanting to make a budget board I can lone to friends to go ride with me and get them hooked.


I really like this deck (link here) but it’s got a drop through cut for a bottom mount truck.

Is it possible to top mount the trucks with a rubber angled riser in-between? I’m currently using a rubber angled riser on my board to give me some shock absorption and to help with speed wobbles.

I’d like to continue using it but am concerned that the drop through cut out will not provide enough stability. Thanks for your help!

All these battery fire posts have been getting to me so I was thinking of getting a wall socket electricity timer thing for my Chinese battery pack so I don’t have to worry about leaving it plugged in. I have heard though that it’s a bad idea to leave the charger plugged into the board when not in the wall. Will this solve my problem or will I still need to disconnect the charger from my board when it’s full?

You can top mount it without a problem

I wouldn’t trust those plug timers I know someone who’s house caught fire during the holidays because of something like that.

Thanks for the response. It’s no problem with angled risers as well?

I wouldn’t see why it would be if your worries about it there are decks that are that shape but not drop through

Building my first battery above 4P and it looks like my choices for BMS that can handle discharge of at least 100 A are limited. The supower ones here 200 mm wide which will take an enormous amount of room. Question is : Is it safe to stack these high amp BMS on top of a row of cells? It looks like all the supower bms over 80 amp have a metal heatsink plate so it seems like putting that kind of heat directly on the cells wouldn’t be good.

Hey Guys,

I’m working on the battery today, and have a couple of questions about the wiring. The charging socket and on-off switch mainly. I vahe a 103p battery with BMS, and only need to solder on those switches. I have bought this on/off switch and this charge socket but they come without any diagrams whatsoever. Anyone know where I can find these?

The charging socket is know as a barrel connector You should be able some to find the info on that on google

The on/off switch appears to just be a regular rocker/toggle switch and should just have two pins on it when in the I position the two pins are closed/connected when in the O position the circuit is open/disconnected. The BMS will need to have a place for using the switch if this will work so you’ll need to look into the BMS documentation or with the vendor for how to add the power switch (since it’s limited at 6A you wouldn’t want to just connect it along the discharge path or it would likely cook while you’re riding). The barrel connectors are either positive center or negative center, easiest way to figure this out is just connect it to the power supply you’ll use then check the voltage with a voltmeter off the pads/pins on the back of the barrel connector, if you probe it measuring voltage and it is a negative value then you have the black (negative) probe on the positive terminal (basically they are reversed if it’s negative), if the value is positive then you have the black probe on the common/gnd and the red on the positive.

Good to use a voltmeter/multimeter in volt measuring mode and continuity checking mode to see what is connected to what or what polarity etc.

Thanks for your replies!

I bought a batterypack complete with BMS with on/off switch and wiring and charger. The only thing missing were the connectors on it. I soldered the XT90 connector on already, but couldn’t find much info on the other two buttons. The wires are also nicely labeled (switch and charge).

So for the on/off switch it shouldn’t matter wich pin I connect to positive and negative, as it will just complete the circuit when on, right?

For the charging port. The label on the charger shows that it is positive center, I just need to know wich of the three pins to connect to wich wire, as there are three pins on it (see the attached picture). I don’t have a multimeter on hand unfortunately :frowning:

Eh just grab a multimeter it’s going to make your life a lot easier (and maybe longer :slight_smile: ) . Guessing with polarity direction or what exactly is going on isn’t a great idea here and good to be able to at least measure the voltage on batteries and things, ideally with a few different measuring devices for confirmation (but at least one).

If you’ve got a 12V automotive light and a 9V battery or similar around you can rig up a simple continuity tester but really a multimeter is something like $10-20 and will do a lot more for you, would just get your hands on one before hooking things up.