Noob question thread! 😀 ask your questions here!

this place is dead. Hop over to forum.esk8.news

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Lol just did that

Hi,

I Build an electric skateboard with dual hub motors. Everything was working fine for a few days untill I started noticing vibrations that gotten worse in de spend of the day when I kept riding it home. Now the vibrations are really bad and some times the wheel cannot keep up to the other because of the vibrations.

Even when disconnecting the phase wires and just pushing the board or riding it with one wheel the motor keeps vibrating at random times. At verry high speeds it sometimes stops vibrating. Also when im not standing on the board and just let the motor spin freely to motors seems to work perfect with no vibrations at all…

I opened the motor up, bell seems alright and all magnets are tight and on the right place. Also checked the wires inside the motor and everything seems to be ok. I really dont understand why it’s vibrating this badly… Hopefully someone can help me, it would be really appreciated. I was having a lot of fun riding it but it didnt even last 3 days !

2020-08-15T14:00:00Z

I have a Fiik Street Surfer electric skateboard with a battery that won’t charge. A replacement battery is several hundred dollars so looking for a way to reuse these batteries.

Anyone have any suggestions?

A battery is a battery.

Lithium ion batteries are a battery with much better energy density.

in any case do your math to be sure it fits in the parameters required by the device.

issues with lead acid can be weird charge ranges but it really depends as some car ones only move from 40-70% charge not a 1-100.

use the esk8 conductor current ratings chart to see what you need to get your 30A

It needs to support that in every place. But if you are going through 2 pieces of nickel, then each piece only needs to support half that, et cetera

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I just orders my FIRST build. I’ll be rockin dual fsesc 6.6 and 6384 flipsky 190kv 4000w motors. My question is this, I have ordered TWO 18650 36v 10s4p battery packs with bms charging, should I make it where I can “hot swap” the battery when it runs out or maybe wire both packs in parallel for more overall usage times OR could I wire them together in series for a monstrous trail beast? I’m not sure being this is my FIRST build and id like to get it right, how does one fully utilize the overall 8000 watts that my motors have? Any help would be great! I can upload and list all parts used if needed!!!

you can use nickel strip for parallel connections and then wire or flat braided wire for the series connections, this makes it also flexible depending how you do it

you mean paralell? Series will make it 20S. Those escs can’t handle that. If you make a hotswappable one you’ll have to open the enclosure every time

So could I just wire positive to positive and negative to negative, for longer battery life?

slightly different tack: how do I attach a Flipsky 4.12 vesc to either the wooden deck or the (yet to be purchased) enclosure? I’ve read a lot about using velcro or double sided tape to either deck or enclosure but the vesc is not shrink wrapped in any way for the velcro or tape to attach to. This would surely leave the fixing method attaching straight to the board or electrics. I’m confused. Thanks! (as you can tell I’m very new to all this. I have all my electronics etc working so I’m on the final strait of getting my build done so quite excited)

I have a Flipsky dual 6.6 plus fsesc with a Flipsky Vx2 remote. The battery level indicator for the skateboard battery on my vx2 remote display is not reading accurately. How can I get an accurate battery reading on the remote screen with the vx2 and dual 6.6 plus fsesc?

Hey I need help and dont under stand any of this stuff this is for a engineering class in high school and I’m trying to build a one wheel where the wheel powers a different battery so u can have like tao batteries

hey guys! I made a ESK8 already a while ago and put it away for about a year now. So i got into ESK8 Stuff again, and wanna replace my old 6S 5500 mAh LiPo battery, with a new custom made 6S5P battery! i already ordered all the things i need, and also the vruzend 2.1 kit, cuz i don’t have a spotwelder by now…wanna give it a try! Cells are 30x 18650 30Q 15A 3000mAh, and a 60A (180A Peak) BMS.

I made today with Powerpoint a simple schematic about the wiring.

and i just wanna ask, if that is working with the amps (max 60A, ESC handles not more than that)

My BMS has only P- and B-, so no C- ! Capture

Thank’s for answering my question! I’ll post some pictures, when the Cells arrive!

Hi, I’m brand new to everything except for long boarding. I am wondering if all of these parts would be good for a first build, and if I have everything I need to get a functional board. Male XT60 to Female XT90 Adapter

Male XT60 to Female XT90 Adapter

Price $4.99 USD

Quantity

Total line price

$4.99 USD

Hexagon Grip Tape

Price $9.99 USD

Quantity

Total line price

$9.99 USD

Abec 7 Bearings

Color Black

Price Original price $15.00 USD Current price $6.99 USD

Quantity

Total line price

$6.99 USD

Spacer Speed Kit

Price $6.99 USD

Quantity

Total line price

$6.99 USD

1/8" Rubber Riser Pads

Price $3.49 USD

Quantity

Total line price

$3.49 USD

Skateboard Hardware Set - 1.25"

Price $3.99 USD

Quantity

Total line price

$3.99 USD

MBoards Enclosure XL

Price $49.99 USD

Quantity

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$49.99 USD

97mm MBoards Wheels

Price $34.99 USD

Quantity

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$34.99 USD

Complete 36T Abec Pulley System

Price Original price $45.00 USD Current price $39.99 USD

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$39.99 USD

VX1 Remote

Price $49.99 USD

Quantity

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$49.99 USD

Battery Percentage Indicator

Price Original price $13.00 USD Current price $9.99 USD

Quantity

Total line price

$9.99 USD

Product

Price

Quantity

Total

Electric Skateboard Motor 6380 190KV

$135.00

Remove

$135.00

FLIPSKY FSESC 6.6 based upon VESC® 6 with Aluminum Case

Regular price $189.00 Sale price $129.00

1 Item in Cart

  1. 39" X 9.5" FIBERGLASS-FLEX DROP THROUGH DOUBLE KICK (#FG39) LIMITED

39" X 9.5" FIBERGLASS-FLEX DROP THROUGH DOUBLE KICK (#FG39) LIMITED

Qty 1

$54.99

Hey - noob here, I’m thinking of building a relative cheap board. My requirements are:

  • mediocre speed 20-25mph
  • good mileage 18+
  • 90mm+ dual hub motors
  • as cheap as possible lol

My problem is idk how to get the esc-motor-battery to all be compatible. If anyone has a guide somewhere, please let me know!

Right now I’m looking at these:

would these work together? I’m pretty set on the 10s4p battery because I think it fits my speed & range requirements, but I’m not sure about the esc and motor.

Never MBoards anything.

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It won’t. They have very low discharge ability and the range is pretty bad. Out of necessity, I have been using two of these in parallel on one of my boards and even then they are pretty bad.

Never skimp on your battery. It drags everything else down.

The ESC is also bad. Very outdated. Power is good but brakes are terrible. Hub motors will be fine, though.

Seriously, just buy a complete Meepo V3 and you’ll be better off. A 10s2p of good cells is better than a 10s4p of crap cells.

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Thanks for the reply.

If it isn’t too much to ask - can you provide a brief explanation of how you know the battery has low discharge and bad range? I’m curious because I want to understand how to purchase a good battery.

One of the reasons I wanted to try DIY is because I purchased a benchwheel in 2016 and it broke - I don’t know how to fix it. Being more involved with putting the board together will give me more confidence to get back into the hobby. I’d otherwise be discouraged with breaking all the boards I buy and getting new ones. For example, if the battery is broke and I need to replace it, knowing what to look for when purchasing batteries would be much cheaper than buying a new board entirely.

I’m willing to read links to resources if you know any - tbh I’m not the best reader, so anything simple and easy to understand would be best.

Two ways to know:

  1. The price. You won’t get a new 10s4p battery with quality cells (like Samsung 30Q) and a proper bypass BMS for less than $400 USD.

  2. I have two of this exact battery pack. In 10s8p configuration, I get decent amps and nothing more, and they sag really early. I’m building a new battery and when it’s done, these batteries will be retired for good.

The reason you want to spend the most on your battery is that it’s the literal heart of your board. With a poor battery, your ESC and motors never reach their true potential.

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