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yes; they are

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Any tips for toeside carves? I can scream around a right hand corner (goofy) almost sitting down but lefts are difficult and I’m barely able to keep my balance on harder turns, much less do a 180 within the width of a street like I can heelside. I have a prosthetic left leg if that makes any difference .

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hello, what you think.

I will use between the plug and bms cable 26 AWG for charging 12S li ion, current and voltage from charger. (50.3V 1.5 A).

And, for connect between bms and vesc i will use 18 AWG, the voltage is 36V (defined by vesc) and probably the max amp is 50 A.

That’s not going to work. You could use 24AWG for charging at 1.5A but I still recommend 22AWG silicone-insulated. 26AWG is too small. Also if charging at 1.5A you could put a 2A car fuse on that also

Between BMS and ESC you want to use 12AWG minimum and 10AWG is even better, but for single motor, 12 is probably okay. 14 or smaller is not okay and 18 will melt within seconds

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this will be my battery, in grey is nickel tag, orange is copper wire the green is the direction of current. and my question is do i have to thick the diameter for connection between batteries, because the voltage ground up and the currerent too.

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That is the best way to run the nickel connections.

Any series connection must be 10AWG or 12AWG because it will carry the full pack current. Use super-stranded, silicone-insulated wire.

Also remember that after you make it, you will be picking it up and bashing it against a concrete wall wheels-first as hard as you can for 30 minutes. So make it able to withstand that. Well, you won’t be doing that, but you’ll be riding it which has exactly the same effect on the stuff inside

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love your method for testing XD i will make a 3D print for protect the battery

I recommend 10AWG but you can get by with 12AWG

im trying to set up my vesc with ESC tool but having a noobish problem. i did my controller setup with a wizard tool and when i pull on the acceleration it always reaches top speed. for example if i pull %10 on throttle, motor ramps up slowly but steadily to %100 speed it doesnt stay at %10. i dont have this problem in BLDC tool. is there a setting that i missed in order to fix that?

you have to set the min and max for your pulsewidth also known as throttle mapping https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TSRj1M0m8B4

that was the first thing i did but it still behaves strangely. this might be related to diy aspect of my remote. may be theres something going on with hall sensor or something.

What remote are you using

its this one: Simple 3D-printed NRF remote - Arduino controlled - ESK8 Electronics - Electric Skateboard Builders Forum | Learn How to Build your own E-board it works ok except for this problem. so far brakes work. acceleration works according to how hard i pull on the trigger but i cant keep a steady speed its really strange. edit: as you can see i keep my finger steady but it keeps accelerating to top speed.

these are the settings

You have to go into the NRF tab that is for ppm.

its designed to work with ppm and uart. i tried another remote from the same project. it behaves exactly the same way

Could someone check out my thread, I don’t know it all the electronics I picked will work together or if there is anything I’m missing. Thanks :smile:

You have 2 different motors on the build they have 2 different kv ratings

I still feel like you have to do some sort of setting with the NRF tab that is why it is there

Yeah, those were just the two I was looking at, I’ll buy two of the same verion.

And your doing a 6s build? I have the racerstar motors but I am using a 10s battery you need to do some research with the kv rating in terms of battery series.