Noob question thread! šŸ˜€ ask your questions here!

Thatā€™s a set screw if you your motor has a hole in/inset part for the set screw you want a dog tail set screw

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014OMFU1I/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_6WQpCbR2PHG4S

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Can you take a picture of your motor shaft cause you may need a keyway

He probably wouldnā€™t what those more of something like this image

Oh. I didnā€™t realize there are different kinds. Good to know.

image

There are also two flat spots, one on either side of the key slot side

@briman05

Do the arrow keys make the motor spin while youā€™re in the tool? But just not the remote?

Yes you can use that in combination with a 3mm key and not use the other one. Make sure to use loctite on it AFTER you get it all lined-up and BEFORE you ride more than a few hundred meters

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Yes exactly

Did you set the ā€œappā€ configuration to ā€œppm and UARTā€ and set that up yet?

If I already did that

could connect the receiver and the engine but I can not move the engine, for the configuration of the vesc I followed all the steps of tb (those in place), I asked them for help but they refused because they do not buy the I command them

check that your receiver cable is plugged in the right channel of the receiver.

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Alright on this pcture it shows 5 resistance readings on a battery, each of them regarding a single cell. But most people use 3x 4S batteries or 2x 6S LiPo batteries (1S in a battery is a cell, 6S are 6 LiPo cells connected in series to one battery), I wonder if the battery is that damged that the charger canā€™t get a reading on every cell in that battery after you shorted the battery (melting the connector) by accident. If itā€™s actually a 5S cell and the resistance measurement is correct than they look suprisingly healthy, meaning that probably a loose connection is causing ā€œBATTERY VOL ERR CELL LOW VOLā€.

PS: You did relace the XT90 plug that melted when you tried to charge it up again right?

Buy Loctite 648 and secure the pulley with that. Super strong and removable with heat, no need for keyway or set screws.

Iā€™ve used this method, it works.

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When I hit brakes, I want actual metal and not loctite slowing down my body weight. Iā€™m not sure I could ever trust that even if it worked fine.

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Well its never ever slipped on my build. But just to be safe he can add a set screw that can be locked in the keyway hole on the shaft :slight_smile:

Why not a key?

If I understand correctly he didnā€™t have one so a grubscrew can be an easier solution than to get a keyway in the right size. Just trying to help and share whatā€™s been working for me.

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@Bjork3n @J_Dizzle If a key isnā€™t an option, my recommendation would be to use a dremel tool or similar method to put a flat on the motor shaft, and then use a good quality setscrew. Donā€™t use the cheap Chinese ones that are made of cheese, they will strip, and then you will cry. Get some good high-strength (grade 8 if imperial, grade 12.9 if metric) cup-point setscrews from somewhere like McMaster-Carr. They even sell them with threadlocker already applied.

I do not recommend trying to stuff a setscrew into a keyway, because under significant force (like braking) the keyway has a good chance to deform, and thus become stuck in the pulley, even once you remove the screw. If you have a suitable flat, the setscrew has something to properly bite into, without fear of deforming the shaft and making it impossible to remove at a later date.

Loctite 648 is good, but like b264 said, itā€™s better to have a physical attachment where it really matters most.

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