I’d personally rather have 10Ah of 20C lipos than 5Ah of 40C lipos. Those C ratings are rarely accurate or rigorously standardized, and are mainly useful as an apples-to-apples relative comparison between the same brand, e.g. A zippy 5Ah 40C is almost certainly better than a zippy 5Ah 20C, but I highly doubt it’s twice as good.
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Skip the pulleys and go for direct drive.
Low on cash, already have 2x maytech 6374 170kv. Or if you’re talking about geared, waiting on an affordable option.
It’s coming soon. Also the maker rhymes with soon!
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What are the pros and cons of building a 12s6p vs a 10s7p battery pack? I’m not sure which configuration will better fit my needs.
For context, I’m considering buying a Focbox Unity (or comparable) for a dual 6374 build and I want to sink ~2kW through each motor, meaning I’ll be pushing quite a few amps through the ESC(s) regardless.
Also! What are the standard rules for calculating how thick/how many nickel strips are needed given a max amount of amps to flow through it?
12s should be fine
Ive used those exact lipo on a friends budget build. They are more like 15c max. They do great for a dual 6455 build, but if you are building a mtb go with 3p or a higher c rating
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12s6p should give you more torque, a bms and charger are harder to find for 12s though. Look up nickel strip ampacity charts
What do arms do on a belt motor mount? Im looking for a more in depth guide on assmebly / how belt motors work. Im making a dual 5065 board, and buying a motor mount from a guy he said I needed:
Some wheel pulleys 36t 12mm wide and 15t motor pulleys. And some 12mm wide 265mm belts
I don’t really understand 60% of that. Could someone help explain / link me to something so I have a better understanding of what I am buying / building?
I don’t get wha put you mean with arms, do you mean stabilisers perhaps?
It’s better for you to first read through the forum, there’s of info.
What the guy is saying, basically is that you need 36t wheel pulley (this is the big thing mounted on your wheel to transfer the power)
12mm wide is the width, single drives uses 15mm but 12mm each for dual is fine.
15t motor pulleys is what you mount onto your motor (those small most likely aluminium thingys for your motors.
12mm wide belts 265m means a belt with wide of 12mm and a length of 265mm. You can calculate the exact belts lengt needed once you know certain dimensions. But if he says you need 265 he’s probably right
Edit: https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/wiki-a-beginner-guide-to-diy-an-esk8/46844 Use search button
I don’t like the spring on trampaboard so use the new elastic one just got MBS so can’t comment on those as yet
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Yeah finding a decent 12s BMS was a lot harder than 10s or even 13s since so many ebikes use those. Here’s a 12s BMS that I’ve used before in a previous build that I’m satisfied with.
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Is this right? I can’t remember where I read it but is it possible that the VESC can upscale the current when PWM is less than 100%. For example the PWM to the motor is 50% and the battery is outputting 60A, would the current to the motor (without any limitations in place) be 120A? (similar to how a transformer works)
Also I saw a build where the battery pack is 2500W and there are two motors which combined are 7000W. It seems like a lot of wasted potential from the motors. Is there a ratio for what works best that I can use to select a lower power motor?
bat amps not motor amps. you can draw 10A from the battery and your motors get 20A for example.
But as input power is (more or less) output power your voltage on the motors will drop.
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Regarding Vesc tool and regenerative braking:
The standard value for maximum input voltage value in the vesc tool is set to 57V, does this mean if I do regenerative braking the Vesc produces up to 57V and supplies the battery (in my case 10s) with that? How does this not damage the 10s battery (max. voltage is 42V)? Isn’t that triggering internal shorts due to overvoltage?
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No regent is normally set to 10-12 amps
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Hi everyone, I am writing from Italy, I am a super noob in the skate world and even more in that of esk8.
From the first day I saw a mountain esk8 on youtube I was kidnapped and I can’t think of anything else! So here I am to expose those millions of doubts that run through my head.
I gathered more information than I could on the forum before writing because I didn’t want to be too heavy for you, but I got to the point of being too confused to learn for myself …
My idea of Mountain esk8 that I would like to build is similar to this:
H2C 2 x 800 W Brushless Motors Electric Skateboard
Main features:
● Powerful dual 2 x 800 W motors, maximum speed 38 km / h, gradient can be overcome up to 25 degrees
● 11000 mAh battery (included in the package), 20 km max
● Remote control to adjust speed (beginner speed and expert speed)
● 8-inch solid rubber wheel, wear-resistant and durable to use on different terrain
● The motor cover has better heat dissipation and plays a dust-proof role, the use of the brushless external rotor motor
● 8-layer maple and 2-layer bamboo edge with non-slip design, durable and safe for outdoor use
● Remote control power supply: 200 mAh lithium ion battery (included in the product), the control range is 14 km and the recharge time is 1.5 hours
Battery: Lithium ion battery
Mileage (depending on the road and weight of the driver): 15-20km
Maximum mileage: 20 km
Max Payload: 200kg
Battery Capacity: 11000mAh
Battery Voltage: 36V
Rated Motor Power: 2 x 800W
Input Voltage: 100-240V AC
Charging time: 6 hours
Rubber Diameter: 8 inches
Clearance Pedal Earth (There is no weight bearing): 14 centimeters
Youtube video where I saw it:
The price of this esk8 is very good (I think), today it costs € 540 for flash sales but honestly I really want to build it myself. My fear is that building it from me costs much more, do you think it is?
Now I come to my doubts about the construction, starting with what I know.
The components:
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Board . (this I believe will be the last thing I will think about but I gladly accept advice)
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Engines . I thought I would put two 800W motors like the model above, with belt drive, do you have any suggestions? Where can I buy them? Are there stores where they are cheaper? It is convenient to buy more powerful engines in case you want to increase the battery and I also believe the ESC?
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Esc (or Vesc). On this subject I am really ignorant. I don’t know how to choose it. I think I understood that the parameters are the maximum voltage and maximum amperage that can be supplied. But I don’t know how many models exist, what are the best models. Is it the Esc that eventually deals with managing the two speeds (beginner and expert)? Are it hard to set? Does Vesc handle sending battery charge data? And finally, is Vesc managing the transmission system between the radio control and the esk8?
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Batteries . . I thought of using LiPo batteries because I know them little but better than the Li-Ion (even if in commercial esk8 I always seem to find Li-Ion (why?). If I used LiPo batteries, how many cells do you advise me to put in series and how many groups in parallel? A 10s3P or 12s2p or what else? What grade C do you recommend (the minimum value, I know that the higher it is the better it is for batteries) But the biggest doubt about batteries is the balancing connector for charging. Where should all balancer connectors be connected? Perhaps to a BMS?
One more thing about batteries, I saw that some built the LiPo battery pack from a cell without a balancer connector (https://hobbyking.com/it_it/turnigy-5000mah-1s-40c-lipoly-single-cell.html) , how will they load the package without blowing up the esk8?
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BMS . I do not know what a BMS really does, is there a dedicated threed on the forum? I read (I don’t remember exactly where) that with LiPo batteries it’s not necessary but it’s useful, what does it mean? Perhaps, if the LiPo balance connectors go to him, does it allow the charge and discharge by balancing the cells? Is the BMS or Vesc to protect the batteries from excessive discharge?
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Trucks . I really like those with springs (I apologize for ignorance, I know I will make people laugh for how I express myself). I’ve seen them in a video (https://youtu.be/jSxdPojJ0ow min 5:07) and call them Matrix Trucks, but I don’t know which ones fit to mount and if the axes section will be fine for mechanical parts for belt drive. Can anyone recommend a mix of Trucks, mechanical parts for belt drive and wheels (from Mountainboard, 8 inc credo) that are compatible with each other?
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Remote control . Do you have advice on a remote control and receiver? Should it be suitable for the Vesc I will choose or are they universal?
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Vesc protection circuit . On the forum I read an article that showed a protection circuit for the Esc (https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/3d-printed-boosted-board-killer/88803/3), do you use it?
Surely I have a thousand other questions to do but I think they are too many for the moment …
If you have useful links both for information and for the eventual purchase of the material I need, please write to me.
Thank you so much for your patience
Andrea
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Here is a really great topic to start with.
If you buy that board I can almost guarantee you that you will want more and have a hard time finding compatible upgrades. You will want to improve the battery, then you will want a VESC controller, then better trucks, then a better deck, etc.
It will be cheaper only in the short run. Diy is intimidating with all the knowledge spread out but you will end up with a much better machine and a ton of useful knowledge.
I almost bought that same board when I started this journey!
Here I am now, with a second build almost finished
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Yeah I second that, those are one of the most unappealing specs ive seen
whats the minimum balance wire gauge that is acceptable for a cheap BMS? Its one of the old AnnPower 10s BMSes that is no longer in production so I don’t know the balancing rate. Is 26awg acceptable or will it melt?
https://www.amazon.com/Pitch-Single-Female-Adapter-connector/dp/B075ZZM2G8