I was commisioned by @topcloud to build this beast (Hiring post: https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/hired-san-jose-area-esk8-wizard-needed-thanks-mods/63535) The idea was to create a low riding board with a retro look. All the batteries and electronics were moved to the back compared to a typical belly enclosure. Ran into a couple problems along the way which will be discussed below but definitely going to be looking like a great build/
Initial parts list
Deck: Landyachtz Urban Assault Trucks: Torqueboard 218mm Trucks Motors: Torqueboard 6354 190kv Motor Mounts: Marcmt88 motor mounts for 107mm wheels Vesc: Torqueboard Vesc x2 Battery: 10S2P Samsung 22R (Going to switch to Samsung 30q in the next iteration) Enclosure: Hammond Guitar pedal enclosure Wheels: ABEC 11 90mm Flywheel Bearings: Redz Bearings Remote: Mini remote Extras:
- Torqueboard anti-spark switch
- P19 Cable Gland x2
- Sorbothane rubber riser
- Golf cart analog voltmeter
Progress in Pictures!!
Initial gunmetal look idea by sanding Torqueboard truck
Raw look vs Original look: Ended up choosing the black look as it looked better with the motors!
Completed drive train
Inside look inside the enclosure:
Problems that occurred during the build:
Motor shaft too long for the pulley cover to fit The motor shaft was extended beyond the black plastic pulley cover Temp solution: No pulley cover taken off until motor shaft shortened
Switching the switch Originally was going with the toggle switch idea but ended up switching after discovering possible safety issues as described in the thread linked => https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/looking-for-help-on-connecting-toggle-switch-to-diyelectric-antispark/65535 Temp solution: Use the original LED push switch
Sparking in a metal enclosure ***** Make sure you heat shrink around the charge port if using a metal enclosure!! ****** Ended up using a voltmeter and discovered that the metal lid was charged. Ended up causing spark welds on the case. Blew the BMS in the pack trying to find the reason for the spark. Originally thought it was in the box so I insulated all metal surfaces. However, ended up deducing it came from the charge after disconnecting the JST connection. Look at the pictures below in the corner of the box for the weld marks. Temp solution: Heatshrink the outside of the charge port.
Here is a for reading this far!
I would love to hear feedback and especially alternative solutions to the problems described above as I’m always trying to learn new things. If anyone also has smooth vesc settings for a 10s2p samsung 30q setup with the Dual 6354, I’d love to hear back!