"OGLY"// Landyachtz Urban Assault

Final build

Top View: Complete_top%20view

Side view: FINAL_side

Background

I was commisioned by @topcloud to build this beast (Hiring post: https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/hired-san-jose-area-esk8-wizard-needed-thanks-mods/63535) The idea was to create a low riding board with a retro look. All the batteries and electronics were moved to the back compared to a typical belly enclosure. Ran into a couple problems along the way which will be discussed below but definitely going to be looking like a great build/

Initial parts list

Deck: Landyachtz Urban Assault Trucks: Torqueboard 218mm Trucks Motors: Torqueboard 6354 190kv Motor Mounts: Marcmt88 motor mounts for 107mm wheels Vesc: Torqueboard Vesc x2 Battery: 10S2P Samsung 22R (Going to switch to Samsung 30q in the next iteration) Enclosure: Hammond Guitar pedal enclosure Wheels: ABEC 11 90mm Flywheel Bearings: Redz Bearings Remote: Mini remote Extras:

  • Torqueboard anti-spark switch
  • P19 Cable Gland x2
  • Sorbothane rubber riser
  • Golf cart analog voltmeter

Initial_parts

Progress in Pictures!!

Initial gunmetal look idea by sanding Torqueboard truck Sanded_hanger

Raw look vs Original look: Ended up choosing the black look as it looked better with the motors! Gunmetal_look Unsanded_look

Completed drive train Drivetrain_side Complete_drivetrain2

Inside look inside the enclosure: Inside_enclosure

Problems that occurred during the build:

  • Motor shaft too long for the pulley cover to fit The motor shaft was extended beyond the black plastic pulley cover Temp solution: No pulley cover taken off until motor shaft shortened

  • Switching the switch :wink: Originally was going with the toggle switch idea but ended up switching after discovering possible safety issues as described in the thread linked => https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/looking-for-help-on-connecting-toggle-switch-to-diyelectric-antispark/65535 Temp solution: Use the original LED push switch

  • Sparking in a metal enclosure ***** Make sure you heat shrink around the charge port if using a metal enclosure!! ****** Ended up using a voltmeter and discovered that the metal lid was charged. Ended up causing spark welds on the case. Blew the BMS in the pack trying to find the reason for the spark. Originally thought it was in the box so I insulated all metal surfaces. However, ended up deducing it came from the charge after disconnecting the JST connection. Look at the pictures below in the corner of the box for the weld marks. Temp solution: Heatshrink the outside of the charge port. spotweld2 Spotweld1

Here is a :cookie: for reading this far!

I would love to hear feedback and especially alternative solutions to the problems described above as I’m always trying to learn new things. If anyone also has smooth vesc settings for a 10s2p samsung 30q setup with the Dual 6354, I’d love to hear back!

6 Likes

Old school rules! Love the name too. I’ve just had to relocate all electronics on my carbon build to the back due to the enclosure being all battery now but I used abs boxes from a local electronic shop. That urban is perfect for that set up with the big ass tail. That set up will suck that battery dry in no time though. I had the 3p version in my 63 dual and it only got me about 6 miles. 30 q will be a ton better though. Love something different. Good on ya!

3 Likes

Love it! This thing is beautiful :sunglasses::sunglasses::sunglasses::smiley:

1 Like

I’d like to take a moment to thank and commend @boardman on his outstanding professionalism and work on a couple of pet projects for me.

The ‘OG LY’, or OGLY, is what I pictured building many years ago on a long flight home from Sydney, carrying back one of the first Evolves ever made (I believe both are from the second production run).

Several years ago, I thought I could build a better board than the Evolve Pintail using my favorite deck at the time (and what I took to Oz, myself): a LY Urban Assault.

Richard re-created my vision from early 2012, warts and all with the analog gauges. At the time, I was 100% convinced that batteries under the board were unsafe and would never work due to vibrations (brilliant, I know).

The BOM for what I embarrassingly called “THE WRAITH” (in caps!) also calls for full blackout Randal baseplates and for me to (presumably) invent “Boardfeel 222mm precision hangers” (this will never happen btw; please go to @Kug3lis for all your hanger needs).

The original THE WRAITH didn’t call for 6355s, obviously; it is a Yin-Yang setup with the single out-runner motors (from the Evolve Gen 1) mounted mounted on the outside, front and back (I had this bumper design and everything).

The aluminum enclosure is from a church organ, I believe, and would have been painted black along with most of the deck. The motor wires are to be in neon green sleeves, too (this was back when electric was “green”)

ABEC11 was the only other supplier in the BOM besides Randal and LY. “Real Wheels (were) Green”… I dutifully have neon green grip tape and a white (11) on the side of the enclosure in the sketches, I’ll post them later.

As history would have it, instead of launching Boardfeel and plaguing the world with THE WRAITH, we did a startup (NASDAQ:MOBL) where my co-worker Andy wrote The Martian… and that’s a story for another day.

In the meantime, I am going to continue to build THE WRAITH as if it were 2012 again, simply, because I can. :wink: Trampa Twelve-Fifty’s.

Thanks again, Richard. I’ll always skate it. -k

2 Likes

Does this board have a gauge showing the charge?

1 Like

Yeah the golf cart voltmeter elevated on the grey box shows the charge. The red area is around 24 volts while the higher end is 40 something volts

Sounds good, I think @longhairedboy was interested in finding a solution like that. You could map out the charge rub out whats written make it look nice to your liking, and write down the percentage.