You spoke and we listened! The FreeRide hollow core deck is now better than ever! Our new construction methods have produced a deck with a lower overall ride height and weight.
Topside the deck features a micro drop paired with a flat bottom V concave for a comfortable locked in foot placement. The top hatch is constructed from 6061 T6 aluminum and fastened with M3 torx machine screws and threaded inserts bedded with epoxy.
Roadside is where we made the most changes to our FreeRide design. Board thickness has been reduced on the nose and tail which has dropped the ride height and increased stability by lowering the center of gravity. The thinner nose and tail sections have also improved ride quality by providing the perfect amount of flex without losing the torsional stiffness of the original FreeRide. The bottom layer contains several layers of glass fiber reinforcement and finished with a triaxial weave for extreme strength and durability.
The Ollin FreeRide Re-Curve deck is now available to builders and enthusiast alike! Retro fit the deck with electronics, batteries, trucks, wheels and drive train of your choice.
The two side channels inside the deck each measure 70mm wide by 622mm long and 22mm deep. These dimensions easily fit 30 18650 cells in each channel leaving enough room on each end for the battery cables and balance wires to be routed through the access holes in the structural beams of the board which are located on both ends. The center channel measures 58mm at the widest points and 53.5mm at the narrowest point. It has a slight hourglass shape. At each end of the center channel you will find tunnels for routing motor wires to the truck mounting locations.
@Wraith you can run our 90mm Popocas on 1/4" risers with zero wheel bite. You can also use 107mm wheels but you will need 3/4" risers if you don’t want wheel bite. Wheels like the kegel shouldn’t need any riser at all.
If you use a thin coating of silicone when you secure your lid, it should be fairly water resistant. It will really depend on what power switch you use, where you drill your holes, what power ports you use…but yes, the board can be pretty water resistant.
@barajabali we already have a few orders in. Those who have already ordered can expect their boards to arrive after next week.
The inner compartments are almost identical to the original FreeRide deck. The outer two channels are for the batteries and the center channel is for VESCs and other electronics. If you are using a wide motor controller like the FOC box, you will need to sacrifice some of the space in the battery compartments for the motor controllers. This board is designed specifically for our motor controller or the original version 4.12 VESC.
@Eboostin we have phased out the pop up hatch however we do have a new switch mechanism that will be available soon. It is a component that can be added later to our deck or any other DIY build.
Here are a few more photos of the Re-Curve. We will be uploading more detailed photos very soon.
Technically there is enough depth to fit 20700 cells.The cells would need to be fitted length wise in groups of three but it would leave very little room for the neoprene rubber strips we use for padding in our builds. It would probably work if you only welded strips to the ends of the batteries and did not use the bus-bars you see in our builds.
20700 are the future imo
@chaka aka Jeramiah feels the same way but 18650 are still basically the commodity cell of choice around the world and the most cost effective.
there isn’t a hatch on top. It sounds like the whole top layer bolts on.
If you look closely at the photo @topcloud posted we actually create a recess for the aluminum top hatch. The remaining top area of the board is a composite skin that is bonded to the core. Once grip tape is applied, there is no visible seam.
@b264 we have been riding this style of deck for several years. If care is taken during the build to seal the motor wire tunnels with silicone, riding through puddles will not be a problem at all. We have found that using grip tape alone to cover the seam the top hatch creates, is all you need for riding in wet conditions, wet roads, puddles, etc. If you are dead set on riding in a down pour, you would want to use a quality silicone sealant around the edge of the hatch because some brands of grip tape actually have tiny holes for air to escape.The tiny holes help remove air bubbles from under the grip tape.