That doesn’t solve the problem. To be reliable, I try to make boards “water-resistant” AND “waterproof” which means that water shouldn’t get in – that part you got – but if it does then it won’t hurt anything. Having a way to run back out through the broken seal means the lid has to be on the bottom due to the mechanics of gravity. That’s how you build things that survive daily abuse as a commuting tool.
I know nobody is going to listen, but I have to put it out there.
The lids have to be on the bottom. Same mistake the Hyperbeast deck has and the Carbon GT deck.
Because in the end, I’m not in control of whether it starts raining or snowing while I’m at work or grocery shopping or wherever. Or if someone is washing their car or a sprinkler system has water all over the street.
@b264 we could argue till the end of time on this subject. The truth remains that if you plan on riding in the rain and properly seal this board you shouldn’t have any trouble with water intrusion. The beauty of it is that this a deck for the DIYer. The builder can create and customize it to work for their needs. No worries man if this board is not for you.
@mikenyc the borad in the picture is the new board. We will have additional pictures soon with the hatch on. The top of the board will look very similar to the original FreeRide. The main difference is we use torx machine screws instead of Philips head wood screws to secure the top hatch.
I’m sort of in the same boat as you are, but for a different reason. I’ve been thinking of making my own integrated deck that opens from the bottom, because trying to do maintenance and checks on a board with the lid on the top and covered with griptape just screams PITA to me. And if going for the more stealth look, a board with screws showing on the top and the griptape obviously cut to give easy access to the lid will ruin it.
Bleh…and not really being able to comfortably accommodate 20700’s is a bit of a deal breaker for me. I might get one anyway though and see if it’s possible to do a little routing on the channels. Or let Bara try to see what can be done first !
@barajabali the deck does not come with the switch or the charge port. The deck at the listed price will need holes drilled for the charge port and switch of your choosing, very similar to what you would do with an ABS enclosure. In the near future, we will offer these as add on features. We should have photos of the aluminum top hatch up really soon. It looks almost identical to the original FreeRide minus the magnetic flip hatch. It is one solid piece with countersunk holes for the Torx screws.
I do have pictures of the optional charge port that we will have listen soon as an add on.
@barajabali Thanks, we are really pleased with the charge port as well. @b264 is close, it’s actually a 4 pin aviation connector. Each pair of pins are good up to 5 amps so you could use up to a 10 amp charger with this connector. The connector comes with a custom circuit board too.
If you want water to drain out the bottom. Drill some small drainage holes in the bottom.
Is that not what your saying, a bottom opening board would be a bit leaky to allow water to get out on its own?
If you must cover them with small round stickers if you want water to not go in there and then open to let the water drain out after a ride.
I’m a rain rider too, I’m hesitant to use a fully bolted down enclosure I can’t see into or open quickly. There is no way to know if water is in there or not after a wet ride without taking all the bolts off.
@Blacksheep the new power switch is not yet ready but will be available soon. The new charge port will go live on our website later this week. Anyone who has already purchased a deck can contact us if they would like one added to their deck at the additional cost.
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