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10s2p Litokitta 30Q, uses 4x 4 cell holders and 2x 2 cell holders, screwed into deck (1 screw per 2 cells), 16awg silicone wire sonnectibe everything, clamped with steel and insulted with 0.25" of craft foam

Whatcha think? Gonna use sheet steel to make an enclosure and I’ll trim the bolts then

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I was thinking of doing the same for my first board until I read up on NESE and realized not only how important it is to have a strong connection throughout vibrations while riding, but also that cheap 18650 cell holders from China definitely aren’t rated for the amount of amps we draw with our boards.

I don’t think anyone’s ever tested it for science though, and I don’t think much can go wrong as long as you are prepared to jump off at any moment :smiley:


Just rode hard for 3 miles on it and it’s holding firm, even after bottoming out on a curb

Will continue for science


What was your maximum amperage used? Maybe take a look afterwards and scout for any warped plastics

Motors don’t draw more than 19A past the BMS/ESC junction according to a power meter

I’ve been using these cells and holder for a month but they sat upright in a cardboard box bolted to the rear trucks…now they hang down

You know those mixing machines they use to add pigment to paint tins in hardware stores? That’s what’s happening to your battery when you rattle down the road and transition from pavement to tarmac and go over rocks and obstacles. Except it’s not for 60 seconds, it’s for thousands of miles.

Still feel confident? If so, you’ll be fiiiiiiiiiiiine.


Is it really that much worse than welding? Those don’t experience fatigue and the weak point is a steel bar…should be fine

I ride even split on brick, concrete sidewalk, and cracked asphalt so it’s a hell of a test… usually 5 miles a day at 15mph

It was a genuine question. I can’t really see it like you can there. If you’re comfortable with it then it should be ok, you’re the one with the tiny bomb under your penis :grin:


I can’t argue that logic, for now I’m comfortable with a bomb getting shaken under my penis. I’ll open it in a week and let y’all know if it works


im thinking the cells are fake :man_facepalming:

also those cell holders are not meant for high amps, id say 5a tops

Oh yeah the cells are definitely fake

I though so too but using the tiny 3x1mm pins they’ve been sustaining 5amps continuous and 10amps burst without visible signs, which is kinda impressive

burst means nothing in this world

manufactures claim burst of 1000a for a millisecond or so…

Burst has been a minute dragging me up a hill at 19.4amps

im preety sure that over the whole pack and not one cell :rofl:

when i said 5a max i meant per cell holder

You right…20a from a 2p so 10a for a minute per cell

nope, per p group which there are 2 of

Next phase will be 12s4p of legit 30Q, running through discharge BMS and Unity to dual MTO 6355…gonna set my life savings on fire



I’m confused…if the whole pack is giving 20a then each p-pack is doing 20a, and amps are distributed across every cell in the p-pack, so if it’s 2p each cell is outputting 10a right?



there are only 2 paralell groups in 10s2p meaning that the load is split between the two p groups (not exactally but)

no each p group is doing 10a because there are two p groups, meaning the load is split between the p goups, meaning 10a per p group

^but this again is not exactally the case cause the load is split between the whole entire pack

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20a current draw on 10s2p it’s 10a draw per cell.

How to test if your battery is good and making good contact throughout its abusive treatment and still making good contact? You could Measure the voltages of the p-groups and see what the change is through time and do it without a bms that would change things. That’s what I do w my suspect battery.

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