I have read tons about how to configure the vesc and I can say that I have achieved that, because my build runs well. But anyways, some things remain not too clear to me:
For example I know that my motor has max 60 amps, so is it wise to set it to 60 or should i go a bit lower for safety? I also know that my motor is rated at max 8S (which I have), so i am worried that if I set it to 60 amps and i have a full battery pack going down a hill, it will hit ERPM and blow my foxbox?
Also, i don’t seem to be able to figure out what the max charging of my battery is for the regenerative breaking settings.
Do you think battery sag is a problem with 8S2P?
I do not have a BMS.
And i use the FOCBOX as a controller.
I am just interested in your opinions, as to what you think are the optimal settings for
Motor Max, Motor min (regen), Batt min (regen) and also what do you guys suggest as a Battery cutoff end in order to preserve battery life but still get a descent mileage in?
Thanks so so much!
I’m not too sure about the particular motor, on 10S with my SK3 motor I barely hit half throttle when cruising at 15 to 20 km/h so I just keep it at 60A and don’t go crazy on the throttle all the time.
I also use lipos without BMS and I make sure to never start my ride downhill when fully charged. Generally regenerative braking isn’t an issue as long as you can monitor your voltage during the ride.
If I start downhill I charge them to only 4.10V per cell so that i won’t overcharge while breaking on the first part of my ride. Depends on your chargers abilities though, I use an ISDT 500W charger.
I mostly cut off at around 3.7 to 3.8V per cell and have my bat min set to -10A with 5000mAh cells.
Thanks a lot for your input! Unfortunately my charger does not let me choose the voltage.
I do have a battery indicator, but it shows in %, not in V.
Isnt 3.7V like half the charge? I thought it should be set to like 3.3V - 3.4V ? I mean isnt it empty really quick from 4.2 to 3.8 Volts?
Also, what is the difference between motor min and batt min?
Oh you probably mean battery cutoff start instead of battery cutoff end ?
Basically yes, however ending your trip at 3.7V is playing it safe. But i wouldn’t go lower than 3.5V for maximum battery health.
Theoretically Lipos can go down to 3.3V per cell or so, but it’s only healthy for them if you discharge at a slow rate. Since E-boards do draw a bit i’d recommend 3.5V.
As for battery indicators, monitoring individual cells would be the best thing. But a real voltage number to read out would also be ok and it’s what i use. You could use a little lipo checker for this.