Orangatang Kegel 32,34,36,38,40,42,44 Tooth Pulleys STLs for 9mm,12mm,15mm Belts

Links to pulleys for 9,12 and 15mm belts are below

So @sl33py asked for a bunch of larger pulleys for gearing down higher voltage set ups and so here is a mass dump. The reason these thread right into the print vs using a nut is because with the kegels on my caliber trucks I couldnt find a way to mount the pulley using the existing holes that would provide enough clearance as to not hit the hanger with the mounting hardware. I also didnt want to cut off a piece of the brand new trucks either so I got to work instead.

So these can be used without making modifications to caliber trucks, just bolts to the wheel.

The 44T is a little on the large side I feel. Its roughly 69mm in diameter which leaves 5.5mm clearance to the pulley from the ground, before you put a belt on it. So if you intend to use it just be mindful of that.

I will also be releasing the odd numbered pulleys (35,37,39,41,43) later on since I have to model the pulley for those instead of just downloading a CAD model from online and modifying which I havent started. I’ll see if I can do those next weekend.

Basic Pulleys (Compatible with Most trucks requiring no modifications)

32: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1733863 34: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1733997 36: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1677410 38: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1706905 40: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1706946 42: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1706989 44: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1707030

Lock Nut Compatible Pulleys (May require modifications to trucks)

32: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1733883 34: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1734002 36: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1711107 38: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1712175 40: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1712180 42: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1712183 44: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1712188

I’m gonna post a few of @mccloed 's pictures since I’m at work and dont have any here to post as a final result after printing. The ones shown are the 36T 9mm belt by the looks of it.

The only pictures I have myself are these but this was my first iteration with a large flang that ended up breaking so I removed it.


Wow Nice ! Any plan for 15mm wide pulleys ?

All sizes (36,38,40,42,44) are available in 9, 12 and 15 mm belts!!! That’s 15 pulleys!!!

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Sorry, I had not seen it. Wow again !! Thanks for sharing your work. I 'll try one for sure !

Just happy help while I can. Once I go back to school I don’t know how much time I’ll have to model things for boards so figured I’d take on what I can and contribute.

Added this file to Thingiverse.


With the built in thread, I found I would strip the tread pretty easily. how are you pulleys holding up? The one you just added with the bolt and nut looks very nice. Is there any clearance left? or does it tap the caliber trucks a bit?

@oriol360 Well I messed up my controller before I hit like 40-50 km but it’s was all very slow speeds around where I live. But it held up okay.

These ones do have clearance issues with the caliber trucks both I and II.

There’s pictures on the thingiverse link that I can’t upload from my phone. So these work with any trucks that have hangers which are 21mm diameter or less. 21 is the absolute MAX, 20 would be better for more clearance.

The link shows a highlighted side profile of the trucks that you’d have to grind/file down to to use with caliber trucks. Alternatively, you could also file down one side of the nut down to just before nylon the lock ring to give yourself more clearance which is what I’m probably going to do.

Pics are in the link. Once I’m at my desk I’ll put them on here.


The original radius of the Caliber trucks IS 21mm so in theory if you manage to center it perfectly, it’ll work. But nothings perfect. So the blue profile is a ~20 mm circle superimposed overtop for a good clearance. You’ll have to go 1 inches or 25mm deep from the edge of the hanger to provide enough clearance to allow for the wheel to sit properly against the truck hanger.

This is what the profile will look like without modifications. Notice the nuts barely clear the hanger on the curved surface and would hit the corners.

I’m not going to print all of these but for reference for fitment on the kegel wheels, this is what they sizes will look like printed on your set up. The clearance between the back of the wheel and the belt is 1.5mm and if you do not want the integrated flange, just offset the print by 1.5mm and it will start printing at the teeth portion.

36T-… 15mm Belt

12mm Belt 9mm belt


40 42 44


@JuniorPotato93 Thank you for your amazing contribution in this community. For the pulley with the build in thread that doesn’t require nuts, what bolts are you using? Thanks!!

@kingbing Same bolts as the ones that require a nut. Just using different tolerances. The whole is printed to accept 10-24 or a 10-32 tap. If you dont have a tap, just look up what the tap drill is for either bolt and find the closest drill bit you have, without going over, and drill the holes out.

Which is better in this application? The 10-24. There’s 24 theads per inch vs 32 threads per inch. But doesn’t more threads mean more hold? Not necessarily. It depends on the material. The Pitch of a thread P is 1/24th for 10-24 or 1/32th for 10-32. The way thread depth is defined is P/2 so the 10-24 engages the plastic 1/48th of an inch and 10-32 only engages 1/64th which is very very little. If this were a much harder material, it wouldn’t matter so much but because plastic doesn’t keep a thread if it’s very small, try to go for the 10-24 if you can.

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Any chance you can do this for ABEC 11’s? :grin: This is great for the community!

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I was planning to do this once I figured out how to design this for the kegel effectively first since I can test it. I don’t have a set of Flywheels so my plan is to use the mating potion of a 36tooth flywheel pulley that’s already available on Thingiverse and proven to fit, and then create the tail end of the pulley in 36,38,40,42,44 at the 3 belt widths and just swap the pulley portions and save the assemblies as one solid body in an STL that prints as one piece. I think that would be the quickest and effect way of doing it from what I’ve learnt doing all these ones.

If you can link me to a Thingiverse or other STL file that you or others have printed and mates well I can start with that and I’ll make both options again, without the nut and with the nut for those who want some extra security.

These won’t be like enertions ones where you have to cut off a piece of the hanger to hold it in place. Unless that’s what you guys want but it would still require bolts since the print planes are in the same plane as the shear stresses and studs would most likely break off either during hard acceleration or breaking.

This one seems to have a lot of makes. And likes. Has anyone got a any experience with these? I’m thinking I’ll add 34 and 32 to the line up as well. For these and the kegels judging by some older commentary as I went digging through this place.

Edit: I always forget about links… http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:545345

The Abec 11 ones you referenced are my go to for 40t. Unfortunately, when the creator made the 36t he made the teeth too shallow. I edited the 36t here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1714204 I also created a 32t for Abec11’s with a different hub here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1704197

I still think your design might work better, though. @JuniorPotato93, Definitely let me know when/if you make pulleys for the Abec11’s. :grin:

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Wow thank you for the detailed answer. I’ll try to find the 10-24 bolt. Thank you again.

Yeah I’m going to make them for the abec 11 fly wheel and clones. Just haven’t had a chance to start them. But I’ll be using that STL to get the mating portion since I don’t yet have clones and then make 32-44 in 9,12,15 mm belt widths. I’ll make sure the teeth are full depth.

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So I’m starting the Ones for Flywheels and clones. There’s “Thick” and theres “normal”. Which is more common/does one fit both? I dont have these wheels I dont know how big a difference this is.

Actual Abec11’s have the “thin” hubs as do most 90mm and above clones(so I have found). Most of the 83mm clones have the “thick” hubs. I mostly use the “thick” hubs. The “thick” ones have worked for both but if you use them on crappy clones they tend to break the hubs.