Put the belt assembly partly together and it fits! It’s a fucking pain to get the belt to get in place but the tension is good.
Still worried about the width, worst case is I trim the belts a mil or so. Can’t be sure until I lathe the hangar, currently the mount sits to far up.
Ground clearance is kinda sketch, with the MBS 100mm AT wheels I get 12mm from flat ground to the bottom of the can, the ABEC 90mm ReFly wheels should put it at 7mm. I think I will use a riser block, it won’t help with wires so probably a stock 1/2" riser. Alternative is I reverse the mounts but I’d rather not TBH, they will sit at 37mm and 32mm reversed without risers.
The MBS wheels are nice and all but they are more fit for hard packed dirt than gravel hills and forest, so here comes the true AT variant with 8” pneumatics and a staggering 375N or pushing force, enough to accelerate my scrawny ass at 0.53G (but a nominal top speed of only 27mph assuming 75% efficiency)
Long after the street/light AT variant is done I will gut it for parts to make a new longboard with 200x50 pneumatics and bigger trucks, the gear ratio will be 15:72 on the same 170kv 12s system
The plan is to modify DickyHo’s basic off-road setup to accept his 8” wheels or get a pair of TB218s with some new mounts and mod them. Due to wheel bite and ground clearance I will have a new shorter but wider deck and properly weld my battery, also some foot straps so I don’t fall off all the time
I know I don’t need an off-road setup but I really want it, the roads near me are pretty shitty and torque is so enticing
——————————
Maybe I will make a new board, 130kv motors and a lipo battery, but I’m not sure
We got lights!! They are running off the stock batteries still (only 17ish watts) so I will try running off a power supply later, in theory I can get them to accept 60W
Mounting is ‘temporary’ since it’s on my old board still
Currently working on the battery sled, bending 96 metal tabs one at a time…
Belts are still kinda slack, it’s loose enough that I can just barely slide the wheel into the belt, that is the farthest in the motor sits and if I go up a belt size it doesn’t fit
Finished the main leads of the battery (forgot to order 20awg silicone wire for the balance), it’s got a little bit of flex to it but it feels stable
With the BMS and ESC it sits at 60 by 18 cm, it will be about 30mm tall with the cells and neoprene
Each line is 10awg silicons wire with a ton of solder to the top of the contacts, maybe 5mm of the contacts and 4mm of solder before the wire so it should be okay for 20A if the contact patch doesn’t melt
In other news stripping and soldering the middle 10awg 100x in a row is a PAIN IN THE ASS, you’re looking at about 4+ hours with a knife and iron, but it came out well with no fuck ups
Not sure how to route the wires at the end but I’ll manage, I can save space by running the stock Unity wires through the BMS since it’s double layered. I will have extenders that mount to the enclosure with 5.5 bullets but the other end is still the 3.5 bullets. If I shrink wrap the connector so it’s smooth and line the BMS with kapton tape it should be safe
The most compact with all the leads in is 166mm wide but not 100% on length because the extensions, not counting them it’s 127mm (The power wire on the Unity sticks out)
I may replace the Untity wires with new 14awg (if I go up a size I can’t use 3.5mm bullets, and 4.0mm bullets don’t fit the far end with the e-switch wires) then I can just silicone the wires through the enclosure and call it a day
Just picked up a trash 31” deck, heavily used and warped, but I can fit my power systems on it with some risers at the end. Gonna put a dual TKP 6” pneumatics drive on it for shits and giggles one day
RIP these lights…the second set died after 5 minutes on the road, the induction coil isn’t mounted to the driver PCB and I can hear it rattling inside the housing
Hit the robotics lab to steal some time on the lathe to fix the trucks and I think I fucked them up…had to cut reliefs in the mounts so they had the clamping pressure but they seem stable for now, one is a little bent so the belt rubs the wheel but it seems like it will not be an issue
In other news I think I’m gonna use the 31" deck for a little bit, working on some plastic rises to bring the base plate angle from 70 degrees back down to 50 degrees. I have about 3/8ths of an inch between the trucks and electronics using the sled and Unity in a flat configuration. Just got some neoprene foam sheet so I can insulate the electronics from the enclosure (1/32" galvanized sheet steel), gonna bolt it as a box to the deck so it won’t be pretty but it will go on fast and be safe
Not gonna buy them for a while but I think I will get some WFB 88a duro Riptide cones for the trucks, I’m to light and unbalanced to get a turning radius any other way so its gotta happen eventually
Got the 0.25" x 15" x 60" neoprene foam rubber and the 3x 15’ 22awg silicone copper wire in the mail today, bad news is what arrived isn’t what I paid for, good news is its better. Wires look fine but the neoprene is substantially thicker than 0.25", definitely less than 0.5" so I’m guessing its 0.375"…anyways its better and the upgrade was free. I will use it to insulate the electronics from water, short circuits with the enclosure (sheet steel box), and vibration…should be very safe since I will use a single cross shaped section with folds to make the bottom 5 sides of a box (electronics sit in foam and foam sits in metal, no mounting to the deck) and another large piece that gets squished against the enclosure rim and deck to protect the top of the electronics and seal everything. Wires will just get sandwiched in the foam and coated with silicone on the outside until I get some nice printed inserts for a pair of MT60s and their corresponding sensors (port and extensions will be epoxied into the print)
Once the main drive is running, I will be converting the ‘mtb’ deck into a real off-road build with a 290mm TKP hanger setup and 8" pneumatic tires from DickyHo. I will be using the 6" TKP kit with the original trucks/mounts/crossbar/hardware/etc but I am replacing the wheels with bigger 8" tires. The only mods are lathing down 10mm of the hanger away on each side but that still leaves me with 190mm for the motors, so I could get a pair of 6384 motors on this if I could afford them. I checked the numbers for the mounts and I will probably lose the threaded rod support and idler bearings but I can keep the outer cross bar
Not yet, but for me it will be okay since I’m really light and the tires will take up a lot of the impact (which will be primarily small bumps on sidewalks or sticks in the grass)
Picked up a pair of lightly used channel trucks for $20, found it on OfferUp for a 20 minute drive. When I get the off-road kit I might use these instead
We love spending more money on parts we don’t need…
Set of parts 1 - preparations for a MTB, eventually I’ll get around to buying the 8" TKP pneumo setup for it and until then I’ll use channel trucks with long board wheels
Set of parts 2: hella underglow, were looking at 43W of rainbow lighting, going with a cheap controller until I get the Arduino stuff sorted
Has anyone here ever tried them?