Holy shit. Thank you sooooo much. Can I copy and paste what you said and post it on the thread that I found that diagram. I don’t want the same thing happening to anyone else. More money being spent 
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Also, how do you know all of this?
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He already stated in the thread which wiring is correct and which is incorrect.
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I found the diagram on another thread. And I just took a screenshot and put it on this thread.
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Yeah look on that thread. He cleared it up.
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I put the right diagram as the solution on my old thread now.
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Cheers dude, I’ve just seen. Glad it’s all sorted. 
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Just to clear some things up:
C stands for contact, or charge. It’s what you normally what you put the “positive” side of whatever you are switching.
NO stands for “normally open”. When the switch is not activated, the circuit passing through NO through C is “open” meaning it is disconnected. When you push the button, it is connected.
NC stands for “normally closed”. When the switch is not activated, the circuit passing through NC through C is “closed” meaning it is connected. When you push the button, it is disconnected. This is useful for when you want something to always be on except when you push the button.
NC and NO will never connect to eachother, so you can drive two seperate circuits off of the one switch (assuming they take the same voltage at C). When one is on the other will always be off.
“+” Goes to the LED through a current limiting resistor (and drops voltage from 12V to something lower) “-” Goes to the LED negative.
These LED switches all normally operate on 12V because they are made to be installed in cars or other kinds of vehicles. They all use 12V lead acid batteries and most analog circuitry also runs off of 12V in cars, especially older models.
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Thank you so much for clearing that up. You are a saviour 
. I had no idea what I did wrong and I didnt want to buy another BMS and do the same thing wrong again. Thanks again 
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