Please review my battery pack so I don't make a šŸ”„

Parallel connection is usually thought of to just carry balancing current. But if you donā€™t have a series connection at each cell, current will flow from cell terminal through nickel to series wire.

For example if you have 1 series connection at the center of a 4p group, and youā€™re pulling 80a from the pack, some of the 0.15mm nickel will see 40a.

Theoretically it makes a difference but in real life, probably wonā€™t make a difference.

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Thatā€™s what I was a bit worried about, I think Iā€™ll go with 2 14awg wires. 1 between each cell

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Hey does anyone have a link for the PCBs I see a few guys here have used looks like it will make cell level fusing slot easier

You can get them from @thisguyhere and I think @hyperIon1 might have some too (correct me if Iā€™m wrong). @akhlut had some too I think, idk if he has a website.

If you wanna go ghetto you can just buy some sheet and cut it into strips and lay it onto the tops of the cells. Make sure to have fishpaper to insulate though

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you can order your own pretty cheap. everything you need to know you can find here

Just wondering if anyone has made the pcb with a spot to solder a fuse for each cell? Would be much easier than trying to spot welder the fuse directly to the battery and much stronger if imagine aswell

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maybe iĀ“m stupid, but i donĀ“t get what you mean.

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Thatā€™s a very good ideaā€¦

I think @akhlut has the PCB up on github if you want to add that

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Ok so each cell has a nickel strip which runs to the pcb.each connection point on the PCB has an independent trace which then runs through a fuse before connecting up to a common trace.

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ok got ya now :wink:

Just make sure that the nickel going to the pcb board can handle the current, should be at least a piece of .15 x 10 min. 0.2 would be better

Check my github.

And i have 3p and 4p pcbā€™s on hand. Just PM me.

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hey mate cool pcbā€™s just wondering what the current carrying capacity of those pcbs are? ive got no clue how to use pcb design software would it be possible to make a version with spots for fuses on the pcb and through holes for cable ties?

Honestly not sure. I need to get a thermistor on one of my busses to see the temp rise under load.

Just wanted to get some more advise on how these welds look, I think they look great although maybe a little too much power. They are stuck on there proper good, like so good the nickel ripped in half before the welds failed.

Just a pic of the welder Iā€™ve been using. It cos me a total of about $50 AUD or $35 usd, it uses a Chinese welding controller, 1400w microwave transformer and 4awg silicone wire.

The timing and power is fully adjustable and Iā€™ve found welding nickel to cells works well with 10ms (I assume it is ms) and 85% power.

Anyway let me know what you thinkimage image

Edit: I adjusted it down to 82 and these look a bit less burnt, I think Iā€™ll stick at these settings. (Ignore the larger weld on the right, I accidentally double welded that one)

image

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Looks way too hot to me! And you punched huge holes through the nickel.

The welder looks cool though :slight_smile:

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Lol, they arenā€™t actually holes. The pic is exaggerated a lot due to the photo, the reason it looks like a hole is because of the small amount of copper left behind from the welding electrodes. I shit myself when you said that but I just checked and after scraping at the welds the little copper chips popped off.

As for being too hot I canā€™t seem to get and good welds when turning it down any lower, maybe Iā€™ll try playing with the timing

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Just for peace of mind I went and scraped the copper bits off fully to show there isnā€™t any holes lol.

image

The lighting doesnā€™t really help and neither does the great se camera but oh well

Edit: I tried some slightly lower setting and these are looking a lot less cooked, any better? image

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That looks pretty good. If you can still dial it down and have them rip off that would always be better I think but the marks that are shown right now I think are from the weld tip you use so donā€™t worry about it. Build that battery.

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Yeah, the tips are only 1.5mm sunko tips. They seem to leave small copper bits welded on the point of contact. In the future I need to get some larger tips

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