Parallel connection is usually thought of to just carry balancing current. But if you donāt have a series connection at each cell, current will flow from cell terminal through nickel to series wire.
For example if you have 1 series connection at the center of a 4p group, and youāre pulling 80a from the pack, some of the 0.15mm nickel will see 40a.
Theoretically it makes a difference but in real life, probably wonāt make a difference.
You can get them from @thisguyhere and I think @hyperIon1 might have some too (correct me if Iām wrong). @akhlut had some too I think, idk if he has a website.
If you wanna go ghetto you can just buy some sheet and cut it into strips and lay it onto the tops of the cells. Make sure to have fishpaper to insulate though
Just wondering if anyone has made the pcb with a spot to solder a fuse for each cell? Would be much easier than trying to spot welder the fuse directly to the battery and much stronger if imagine aswell
Ok so each cell has a nickel strip which runs to the pcb.each connection point on the PCB has an independent trace which then runs through a fuse before connecting up to a common trace.
hey mate cool pcbās just wondering what the current carrying capacity of those pcbs are? ive got no clue how to use pcb design software would it be possible to make a version with spots for fuses on the pcb and through holes for cable ties?
Just wanted to get some more advise on how these welds look, I think they look great although maybe a little too much power. They are stuck on there proper good, like so good the nickel ripped in half before the welds failed.
Just a pic of the welder Iāve been using. It cos me a total of about $50 AUD or $35 usd, it uses a Chinese welding controller, 1400w microwave transformer and 4awg silicone wire.
The timing and power is fully adjustable and Iāve found welding nickel to cells works well with 10ms (I assume it is ms) and 85% power.
Anyway let me know what you think
Edit: I adjusted it down to 82 and these look a bit less burnt, I think Iāll stick at these settings. (Ignore the larger weld on the right, I accidentally double welded that one)
Lol, they arenāt actually holes. The pic is exaggerated a lot due to the photo, the reason it looks like a hole is because of the small amount of copper left behind from the welding electrodes. I shit myself when you said that but I just checked and after scraping at the welds the little copper chips popped off.
As for being too hot I canāt seem to get and good welds when turning it down any lower, maybe Iāll try playing with the timing
That looks pretty good. If you can still dial it down and have them rip off that would always be better I think but the marks that are shown right now I think are from the weld tip you use so donāt worry about it.
Build that battery.
Yeah, the tips are only 1.5mm sunko tips. They seem to leave small copper bits welded on the point of contact. In the future I need to get some larger tips