Pneumatic setup: Psychotiller SixShooter wheels / Treenutter Mas deck / 2x Torqueboards 190kv 6355 motors / 10s4p battery with 30Q cells

Thanks a lot for the tips! I might start with a higher grit, like 100, just to extend the pleasure of sanding the hanger.

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@treenutter @psychotiller

I am tempted by the flexible Mas deck from @treenutter. So I am trying to decide if I go the Caldera or the Mas route.

The main challenge with Mas deck is fitting 10s4p battery into max 8.5’’ x 8.5’’ enclosure. This might be tight, but can probably be done with careful planning. I am thinking about this battery design:

This way I can use the same battery as for my Vanguard build.

A few questions:

Has anybody done a similar build with the Mas deck?

Has anybody made a 8.5’’ x 8.5’’ enclosure for 10s4p battery?

Can I drop mount the SixShooter wheels on the Mas deck without wheelbite?

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I know the Sixshooters will work on the mas deck

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Not yet.

I believe so, but I need to test it. I’ve been planning to build up Mas with a similar setup (drop-through mounting and sixshooters). This is a part of the reason that it has such deep wheel cutouts.

@sash While the intent of the details in the middle is to increase flex at the center, I’m not sure how much that is true, especially if I render this in 9-ply. Most of the flex in comes from the narrow tails at either end. What I’m saying is that it you might be able to use a standard 10s4p pack and enclosure.

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Mas deck? picture! :slight_smile:

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@davidbonde this is “mas”

IMG_6677

FullSizeRender

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Cool - that looks like a looow ride!

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It is low! 1" drop and drop-through mounting. But with 6" pneumatics (i.e. @psychotiller’s 6shooters) it has perfect ground clearance.

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You need to make a top mount version of this deck. Would be epic…

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I can do that… someone order one :slight_smile:

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While I am waiting for a deck, I am trying to decide about electric components. I want a simple and bullet-proof design with minimal number of components that can fail. I read a lot of horror stories about batteries catching fire, so I want to be sure that everything is 100% safe.

I need some expert advise, especially from expert battery builders.

Here are my thoughts:

5.5 x 2.1 jack + VGA port for charging with an external balance charger. This way I can easily monitor the cells every time I charge.

5-7 amp fuse for charging. Should I put it on the positive battery lead?

I read that thin balance wires fuse out themselves if there is a short. But it is better if they fuse out outside of the battery pack. So I am thinking about using thinner balance wires for a connection between the battery pack and VGA port. How about 24 awg silicone wires inside the battery pack and 26 - 28 awg silicone wires for connecting the battery to VGA port? Does it make sense?

In my first battery build (10S4P with 30Q cells) I used a lot of hot glue and also paper rings on the positive sides of 18650 cells. Now I am reading that this may not be good because hot glue and paper rings can catch fire. I also used hot glue to cover nickel strips, and to fix balance wires and battery leads, to make sure that they are not rubbing against anything. I was using this battery for some time without issues (sometimes riding up pretty steep and long hills). But now I am a bit worried that I used hot glue. Should I be worried? What are safer alternatives to hot glue and paper rings?

I am still debating about using a fuse for battery discharge. There are pros and cons to it, from safety perspective. If I use it, I’ll go with a 60+ Amp fuse. I guess without a fuse, there is a higher chance to burn VESC (which is fine with me). But is it possible that VESC short out the battery and cause fire? Did anybody have battery fire because of it?

I’ll solder wires (instead of using connectors) everywhere where it is possible. I’ll solder can bus wires directly to VESCs as well as the wires connecting VESC with remote receiver. In my Vanguard I was using can bus and servo cables secured with tape. But after riding some bumpy road these wires got loose and the board started to act very strange and dangerous (like suddenly accelerating instead of braking or vise versa). After I soldered everything and secured it by hot glue, I never had this problem. I think that servo cables and can bus connectors are not safe. Why are people using them?

The only connectors that I’ll use are XT60 for connecting the battery to VESCs and bullet connectors for phase wires connecting VESCs to motors. Even with these connectors, one needs to add extra protection to make sure that they don’t come loose. On another occasion after I rode some bumpy road on my Vanguard, one of the motors started to rotate in the opposite direction. This happened because one bullet connector on a phase wire got loose. So I used pliers to bend the prongs of bullet connectors a little bit to make sure that they are really tight and can never get loose - this solved the problem.

Hey man are you positive about this? Superstars/hypas are 50mm… 2" tires have 50.8mm beads. A few mm shouldn’t make them not fit? The inner diameter of the bead looks the same…

I think I need to order to know for science…

Dam wish I saw this post before ordering them I have a pair on the way today waiting on the post man to deliver them and I have superstar hubs. Well see what happens

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Today was the circumcision day.

If you want to use @psychotiller’s SixShooters with @torqueboards motors, be aware: The shafts of TB motors are too long for SixShooters. You need to cut off 6mm from the shafts.

Dremel is your friend:

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Couldn’t you move the mounts inside 6mm instead?

@mmaner Is it how you did it in your build? I could not figure out how to move Ripba mounts inside, because they sit in fixed position. Another option I was thinking about was to add 6mm plate between motors and motor mounts, but I decided that cutting motor shafts was easier than making this plate.

I am curious how you move Ripba motor mounts inside. Did you cut 6mm from the hanger?

It’s not the SixShooters really…It’s that the Ripba mounts are a fixed positition. With other motors, that’s not an issue.

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I see what you are saying now. Mine is using hanger clamps, not the cups. Im using 177mm SUrf Rodz TKPs with 6374 TB Motors. WIth my mounts as far out as they can possibly be, I still only have about 3mm between the motors. Also, Im using 25mm pulleys and belts, so the shaft was actually a little short.

I have a couple of builds that use the cups but they have BKB motors.

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Actually, one of the features of TB motors advertised on the website is “Extra long motor shafts”. I guess for pneumatic wheels this feature is rather a (minor) annoyance.

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I see. I guess for 25mm belts “Extra long motor shafts” of TB motors is a helpful feature. But for 15mm belts they are too long.

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