[POLL] Calling all torqueboards/vedder switch users!

There seems to be a lot of talk in regards to failing switches and it’d be nice to collect data on failure rates and the conditions surrounding them.

If you have a Vedder or torqueboards () switch. Please vote so we can see the data! If your switch is working please only vote if you’ve been running it longer than 3 months

  • Failed Vedder switch on 6s or lower (regular fets)
  • Failed Vedder switch on 8-10s (regular fets)
  • Failed Vedder switch on 12s (regular fets)
  • Working Vedder switch on 6s or lower (regular fets)
  • Working Vedder switch on 8-10s (regular fets)
  • Working Vedder switch on 12s (regular fets)
  • Working Vedder switch on any ‘s’ (direct fets)
  • Failed Vedder switch on any ‘s’ (direct fets)
  • Failed TB switch on 6s or lower
  • Failed TB switch on 8-10s
  • Failed TB switch on 12s
  • Working TB switch on 6s or lower
  • Working TB switch on 8-10s
  • Working TB switch on 12s

0 voters


Failing Vedder switch ?? what are you talking about ?? some people here like @Maxid say those switches never fail.
Of course they fail. My switch was dead within a month of usage.

huh? :confused:

Here’s little quote from you…when I was saying those bloody antispark switches fail.

I just said that I haven’t heard of one - doesn’t mean they can’t fail. Emphasis was also on “properly done” - I soldered mine myself and did not have problems so far.

I am glad you now have heard of switches that fail…you say they were not done properly ?? I am sorry but vedder switch is not rocket science.

Which is why I find it weird that it fails. The more complex the higher the failure rate usually. What is the reason they fail in your opinion?

Your posts also sound slightly angry - why?


First time doing SMD and I fucked mine. Wish the FETS were through hole… probably non-existent though.

My buddy and I received two torque boards switches. They were off when we plugged them in. First time we pushed the button to turn on, they turned on, but failed open and never turned off again.

120 + shipping down the tube, and torque boards doesn’t pay for return shipping. So closer to 140 down the tube and still waiting for refund. Lol.

1 Like


Both brand new TB switches failed instantly first powerup on 12S. Each one was on a different setup to eliminate the root of the problem being the wiring.


I have had mine for about 5 months, but I don’t use the board that often. I use it like once a week and I don’t leave the loop key plugged in. My loop key is between the battery and TB switch. Might be less chance of failure since I don’t use it like a conventional switch.

10s, dual motor

Thanks @Jinra for making this thread can wait to see the results!

@lox897 problem with though hole or TO-220 package MOSFET’s is there usually not as efficient as the D2PAK FET’s. The D2PAK also has a lot better thermal transfer properties to the PCB then a through hole. TO-220 is good for mounting to large heatsink though that’s obviously not applicable to this use case though.

failed to list miami electric boards’ switch. didn’t know which one it resembles the closest so picked Vedder switch on 12s.

weird though, mine failed on the off position.

i’m not taking this poll because its been almost a year since i stopped using anyone else’s vedder switches but my own.

But i will say thati fried all of them. I fried Flyer types from both DIY and Miami. I fried Vedder switches from both DIY and Ollin. I fried vedder switches that i made. I fried vedder switches that i had somebody else make. I fried switches that i got out of space cells.

I didn’t stop frying them until i replaced the mosfets with IRFS7734s.

Now i have a switch that simply doesn’t fail unless you deliberately try to make it fail. OR accidentally by shorting it out. https://longhairedboy.com/collections/all/products/12s-bare-bones-eswitch

The flyers are useless for 12S. Stock vedders are also useless for 12S.

Flyers are OK for 6S and 8S provided you leave them the fuck alone and don’t play with them too much. They can’t handle the braking current of the big motors we like to use though. Neither can the Vedders if you don’t swap out that mosfet, they will eventually fail.

I learned all of this around April of last year. It sucks that we still have to have a poll to figure out if shit’s any better now. It should be better by now. I can’t be the only person with a reliable eswitch for sale. That’s just butt fucking retarded.


I have been using the switches with the IRFS7530 mosfets on 10s for two years with no problems. Some hand soldered some re-flowed. Maybe I’ll have to order some IRFS7734’s if I ever go 12s.

@longhairedboy what do you think about using the 7734 on vesc4?

@longhairedboy @mccloed Yeah those 75V MOSFET’s id imagine are a lot better. Though the IRFS7730 is an even better choice because it has a lower RDSon which means less heat, also they seemed to actually be cheaper then the IRFS7734’s lol.

Right, i’m going to get a batch with the 7730’s very soon, actually its my next batch that should be on the way soon.

But that’s the history lesson anyway.

@Jinra Thanks for the post.

Working on a new switch…

Samples should be done next week. If all is good I’ll be doing maybe a 50-100 test batch. We’re using (3) IRF7749 directfet with zener diode.

I want a bullet proof switch so if it fails or has issues. We’ll make changes to fix it.

I apologize for anyone who has had major issues. Once we have a solid switch, I’d be happy to help resolve the switch issue just get in contact.


Looks like the gate voltage is different on the 7730’s & 7734’s than the 7530’s. I’m not an electronics expert. Would one of the resistors have to be changed from the original BOM?