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nobody is doing it yet! its at least the least goofy and most visial appealing design without everything sticking out the back. I just need someone to machine an aluminum sled for all of the batteries with an integrated front and rear axle for the 2 wheels and also an integrated motor mount to mount the motor vertically. If someone gives me a quote Im down to cosider funding a prototype. just need a maybe 20x20x0.5 inch aluminum sheet and maybe a traditional skateboard axle we can cannibalize and retrofit to the aluminum right? I know nothing of making round metal pieces ;/

edit: so far found a $284 plus shipping quote for a 2ft by 2ft sheet of .5 inch 6061 aluminum. Not a bad start!

edit. even better is 1ft by 2ft 6061 for $155. would weigh 15lbs before shaving most of it away, which is just 2lbs heavier than my eboard.

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Iā€™m interested in the mount you would make. whats the difference between the cone shaped gears you posted above vs a non-conical gear? draw it up. Id do steel cogs. with no belt to tension and no adjustability itā€™d need precise machining and a good mating of the two cogs that wouldnā€™t bend of course.

ā€¦ if you come up with a good design first, probably in cad with all the parts in mesh to make sure, Iā€™m down to work with you to get it made.

instead of doing a bolt on mount how about a cast or machined hanger with the mount attached.

or to go real diy and keep it really cheap you could cast the mount onto a regular hanger with a good mold. so a composite hanger. a mold with a hanger and carbon in it and you pour the resin, vacuum it and pop it out. .then youā€™d just need the two cogs and a way to mount the wheel cog to the wheel. I like this way and have done similar. you could make the mold from a hanger and hard wax, then when you cast it you stick in a new hanger.

:grinning: looks really cool

@Hummie motor mount would be just like the ones were already using, minus the clamp. hopefully this picture makes sense. Im about to go in to work and had to set this up quickly!

that why the 90 degree spiral bevel gearing is necessary. Largest contact patch between gears in the most compact and allows to use a simpler chasis with less parts. with a size 42 shoe I can fit i think 14 or 15 cells in a single row, 28 or 30 if the cells are staggered in two rows. Still 100% thinking out loud here, Iā€™ll get to work on a cad file asap!

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the shoe thing I donā€™t know about but the mount design seems cool. cant see much in this photo. id rather have it pointed frontward or backward not upright as in this pic but thatā€™s nitpicking. with the casting methodā€¦if you get a hanger and shape hard wax around it exactly as youā€™d like it to be, then the hard silicone mold, which will likely need to be 3 or more parts, will pop it out in a solid resin and carbon composite,ā€¦you could have an awesome design with the gears protected and all types of shaping that you couldnā€™t do with machining. or just get the whole hanger machined or cast with the mount. as I said. casting it in aluminum by a pro place will cost a lot and itā€™d need to be more than just gravity casting. machining would be maybe better. Id forget doing any of it with outside help and make the part in wax on a hanger and made the silicone mold because even WHEN it needs to be corrected somehow and maybe you even need to do a whole new silicone mold its pretty cheap and the time spent is fun.
Weā€™re not on topic here but Iā€™m really into this. minimal parts. solid. ā€¦if only it could be made quiet, and especially with the versatility of the composite shaping you could cup everything in a way to retain the noise I bet.
but in your pic you have the connection between the cogs on the outside of the wheel and then the structure would have to be much bigger and stronger. why not just to the inside? the wheel pulley will likely need to be custom made but the other I think would be easy to get. few parts total.

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Just look inside an angle grinder head, youā€™ll find the gearing you need :wink:

@itsmikeholland

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Iā€™m back after 10 continuous hours of work lol f*ked up saturday.

Mike I actually dumped the 2 wheels setup because apart from skatepark grind, it applies too much stress on the wheels and bearing thus making a pretty bad rolling, cornering and braking performance.

I know some DIY models which roll 2 wheels though and without growing a big head, I know my stuff when it comes to inline frames.

If youā€™re ready to fund some electronics Iā€™d gladly make a proto with mount/frame combo for ya. By electronic Iā€™m simply thinking about a standard motor that youā€™d choose. Tacon, turnigy Sk, Racerstar, no name, whatever as long as it fits your bill. Sidemount can allow 63mm, why not.

Iā€™m getting back in contact with friend engineers working as teachers in a school (they came back from holidays), they have all the big CNC machines to make it happen. Just learnt what I needed to convert my frame to ā€œproduction possibleā€ from them and can ask for a pair of frames / mounts if needed, even 3D printed quick proto part first (their printer leaves mine not in the dust but outside in the street).

2 wheels allow for groove too so you may want a stunt style frame with protected electronics inside, UFS ready instead of 165mm ? If @Hummie brings his knowledge in choosing the gear parts we can nail it.

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Can u get a quiet meshing of gears w them oriented axially instead of at the 9o degree. Can u avoid the need for compression that the 90 degree or less connection would cause? The meeting comes is awesome looking but if they can avoid the need for tnrust bearings but still get a smooth connected coggingfree and tight contact w no noise? Thatā€™d be easier to do. Or even a 5degree anglr and a little compression if from a slight anglr if its a key ingredient. Whatever it takes to make it silent really is what I want. Whatā€™s the shape of those metal gears

Well I never looked into gears reduction in detail apart from theoryā€¦ My guess is we could look for helical pinions to get the job done. A bigger gear diameter attached to the skate wheel that needs to be driven. With a proper hole in top / side of frame it is achievable.

Easier to make than DIY Leiftech system!

its honestly easier to just use a hub, not sure why I didnt think of that first lol

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/8b/Double-helical_bevel_gear_Citroen.jpg

a normal pulley you can get a 1:3 or 4 ratio at most, because of the pulley size, this can do much bigger ratio I bet with a smaller diameter gear that can fit.
the double helix needs no thrust bearings and doesnā€™t load axially.
these things are very close in efficiency to beltsā€¦how do they compare?

these things I bet can be made quieter than a pulley by a long shot. these things if made in good steel could last a very long time, probably a really long time if you protected it but Id definitely want to ride it open to see and hear.

http://automotivethinker.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/HelicalGearsThrust.jpg

the herringbone gear in the pic is a version of the double helical but a huge pain to make and instead this is also a double helical but with the gap between and just as good at not having an axial load. http://www.st-hubertmachineshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/helical_gear.jpg http://www.artec-machine.com/wp-content/docs/single_vs_double_helical-gears.pdf still like the double helical something like this with no angle could keep the motor tight to the truck.

https://sc02.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1HIWiLpXXXXagXVXXq6xXFXXXV/Top-Grade-Double-Helical-Gear-Herringbone-Gear.jpg I asked how much for something like this in 40mm diameter.

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Jedboard actually uses a helical gear and seems to be way more efficient than belts. They claim 4wh/10km

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Just listened to jedboard and it sounds very loud. Also doesnā€™t use double helical

Haha easier is not the word Iā€™d use about hub integration and donā€™t underestimate your idea!

@SirDiff From my understanding Jedboard gears allows better inertia and less friction thus rolling resistance is very low, close to non motorized boards. It does help a lot!

@Hummie gears are bound to be loud if running open. What about a casing with sound deadening foam to kill the noise? It will be less pretty but it will sure help.

Edit : why not single helical? You get a short bare shaft with helical on one end so you can recycle straight pinions from existing drives. Saves both time and money for proto!

The double helical stops axial thrust which will happen w a regular helical and, besides the regular helical therefore needing a thrust bearing , noise is still produced in possibly many places connected due to the axial forceā€™s vibrations . a single helical may have a nice quiet mating of parts and an ideal shape but be noisey. If going for the quietest the double helical seems king. Probably the most efficient too. When will you be finished w a double helical build hopefully @itsmikeholland ? Could come w a replacement doub heli shaft for the motor, the hanger with a super tight motor shaft to axle gap (the hanger w a recess in the aluminum for the motor diameter getting really close, and the wheel pulley probably needs a better support than just the wheel and would mount to the axle, so a longer span of axle to fit it and the wheel and maybe a true 8mm fitting bearing for precision instead of typical 5/16 bearing or whatever they use in skate wheels.

This could be the most efficient drive mechanically and with up to 1:10 gear reduction possible the motor and whole system could be the most efficient. I only want it if itā€™s quiet

They look wild, I thought they were for going upstairs in a hurry! :cityscape: Im on pneumatics for now, but the range is lackingā€¦ Ill keep them in mind, I think ive heard of them a awhile back. Last skateboard I put togetehr was a world industries Battle '2000 skate deckā€¦:no_mouth:

Keep us updated, is there another build forum you keep?

@Hummie Iā€™ll be completely honest, Ive never made a .cad file and am still learning, Im working on it as quickly as I can!

Great project. I love it and want to see it complete soon.

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