Pre-order: The Rocket Deck: Dual hollow channel longboard reverse mounted drop through deck!

I am impressed at how competitive you could make the pricing. Kudos to you sir. !

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this is great. do you have any pictures of your board fully assembled, and gripped?

Not yet. These are photos of the samples I have yet to receive. But I’ve made 2 boards myself (both different shapes than this one) with the same design process, and in this case, the support beams are even bigger. They also did the edges better than I did in the past so you won’t have any gap between the lid and the deck like my attempts did. Should be getting this next week it seems. Defiantly will be posting more pictures as I assemble one!

If you can send me one, I can custom cnc it out for the ronin truck. I had this design done because it’s a stepping stone for me to completes. This is the deck I plan on using more or less.

The first production run will actually have a larger pocket also. I’m trying to push them to 650mm.

That would mean a 12s4p of 18650 + bms + 4x vescs would fit.

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The bottoms of these bottoms are also basically blank canvases.

So for any artists who can to customize the graphics or their deck… Could make some wicked graphics!

You can’t do this with a regular bottom mounted deck.

I will also offer custom graphics in the future.

Is it too late to add some channels for some LED’s, kind of how Inboard has them set up?

I can do some minor mods to these decks to add more features. My goal was a standard enough starting point so things can be added.

I have some smart led bars I plan on adding to the front and backs as an upgrade option.

This is really just the beginning, a lot of options are possible. But I needed the foundation first.

For a no thrills board, the price is really good. With LEDs and other features, the price could jump quickly.

Working on finding a graphic artist to do some graphics for these samples also to show what can be done.

Would totally be interested if there was some way to get it without the beam in the middle because I already have a battery pack made, and I would have to make a new one for this.

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Depending on your battery packs assembly, you might be able to split the pack.

From the sounds of it, like chaka said, battery packs need to be supplied.

I’m working on a source for 30q cells to hold over till the 30T cells become ready.

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I want this, thanks for making this available, but some questions first.

Is this pre-order pricing discounted? If so what do you anticipate the normal pricing to be? (btw awesome pricing)

Can this be customized to fit 12s4p? Do you think I can route it manually, and not compromise strength? I’m thinking 12s4p minimum with 30q to feed 4 motors.

The screw holes to hold the lid on, they’re just wood, right? No metal inserts? So something like countersunk wood screws, maybe deck screws?

Can you put up 2 more photos? One profile shot with lid in place, and one of the bottom of the lid? The middle support beam is recessed – I’m curious if there’s material to fill the gap on the underside of the lid.

How tall is the cavity?

Where do the switch, charging port, etc., go?

EDIT below is almost completely wrong. And side note, I believe Russian maple is actually commonly known as Baltic Birch, which is rather well known for high quality plywood.

Yes, I will be charging $200 when I have stock. But I will also be selling with batteries later. If you decide you want to upgrade to with batteries later before they are shipped, I would just charge the difference in price between the two options. I am expecting my price with battery to be between $580-$620 depending on the bms for a 12s4p. I would love to use a community built bms, like the DIEbms. Obviously, that would be more expensive.

I hope to be able to get this to a 12s4p for the production version. Theres still more room for larger pockets. So I’m hoping to increase the pockets to 650mm in length each, which could fit a 12s4p.

No, there is metal inserts inside. You screw the lid into metal not wood, so they do not wear out overtime. I have unscrewed the lid on my current boards hundreds of times of the years with no wear whatsoever.

When I get the samples, I will gladly put up more pictures. They said they will ship no later than Monday so I should get them some time next week.

It is not. Your getting confused the concave. That’s how much concave this deck really has. The lid will rest on this middle beam, along with the outer beams. The lid is just simply 3 layers cut to the shape of the deck with holes for screws to go through.

Each pocket is 22mm deep. Right now, the samples pockets are 558mm long and 70mm wide each I might change this to 650mm for the production version to fit 12s4p batteries.

This is something you can solve (or I can solve for you for a small fee). You can’t make a product like this with a one size fits all solution. So in some ways, the board is like a blank canvas. With my current board, I drilled out holes on the side for a power switch and charging port. That was with a $20 black and decker drill and some cheap drill bits. Essentially, something most people in the diy world should be able to do.

Couldn’t find anything about this on google. If you have any links, I’d love to read about it. My understanding from researching it is that it is not a plywood.

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Okay I was gathering links to prove my point when I discovered, fellow woodworkers led me astray. Birch != maple. Dumbass me, I’ll edit my post to point out the wrongness.

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Good stuff! How do you make these? Vacum bagging? Can you make a picture from the concave, mabe put a ruler on top so we can see better;)

How water tight is the deck? Have you tested that? Inboard had a big issue with water seeping in through the latching mechanism on the top lid. Is there any protection at all, or is that something we would have to address independently?

Birch is a tree looks like this…

It’s the cheapest wood material here. Low density and not very strong. Birch plywood is most common plywood in Poland (you know that country by the Baltic Sea). Plywood is a plywood that is sheets of veneer glued together and hot pressed. Majority of plywood is build from 1,5mm thick sheets and it’s made from different kinds of wood. Your Russian Maple is very good material. The best wood is from Sweden and Finland.

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The first deck I made was via a vacuum bag, 3 layers at a time.

I moved up and built a hydraulic press and mold for the next deck, which showed to me that there was a better way of making these decks, I made 1 good deck but never rode it.

Now, I have found a manufacturer that has experience making decks for electric skateboards. Funny enough, it just so happened to be the same manufacturer of hummies decks, lol.

I gave them all of the pictures of my work, look at board molds that they had, and gave them all of the detail of how I made my boards. I think they did the same thing I did for the last board, which is press 18 layers, cut them (they used a cnc mill, I just used a jig saw), and then repressed with the last 3 layers. I believe they press the lid separately, but placed them together for cnc milling to get perfect accuracy.

Right now I am waiting on the samples. I know this build process yields a strong deck (the biggest problem with hollow core decks is strength), and the beams are even larger than mine before. Everything else was cut to my specification. And since they are providing me with the screws also, they can confirm the lid indeed fits before shipping. They have already confirmed it fits the paris truck.

Should be getting the samples mid next week. Once I get them, I will post many more pictures. They didn’t send me the best of pictures, which is the bottom of the board.

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I have found in the 2 years on riding with this design that water does not seep in. I have ridden in mild down pours (been caught halfway, no rain when I start, and half way home, it starts to pour) and no water gets in. I put the buttons and ports on the side of the deck, and in the back left side, water from the wheels misses them there.

Now, I am not calling it water proof. If you submerge it, water will likely get it. But rain shouldn’t be an issue at all (unless its a absolute downpour, in which case, what are you doing outside riding? haha).

You could put a rubber seal between the deck and lid if you really wanted. But I don’t think you’ll gain much benefit, if any at all.

The drop through being mid-layer is interesting. Do you think there’s enough clearance underneath for a belt drive? Do you have pictures of what it looks like with wheels on?

lol, Everyone wants pictures! I know. The best I can do is point you to the link I provided in the first post of my first build with this style of deck, as I wait for the first 2 samples. It will be very much the same structure, just a slightly different board cutout and concave. I will post more pictures as soon as I can.

I haven’t tested belt drives but I have a strong feeling with the right motor mounts, it will. There are about 16 layers down to the bottom from the recession. All be it, these layers are 1/16 of an inch thick. So it will be about 1 inch down. Regular longboards are about almost .75 inches thick. So if you have an extra .25 inches of clearance, it’ll work.

Hey how about some pictures ? Just kidding:joy:.

Btw: since it may be news to some potential customer maybe offer or link to 3d implants, so they could finish out the lid with the concave of their dreams. just as a thought.

Out of curiosity, how possible would a traditional top-mount be ? I would insta buy that. Rayne other-side v2 style deck hollow for esk8. that would be so sexy.